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Homemade Turbo Kits?



There aren't a lot of homemade turbo kits on this forum, but if i were to make one, I would either do one like the Z3 kit from zzp and just buy the crossover and downpipe from that kit then make the open dump wastegate myself. Or something like Mr. flipflops has with the passenger side tb and the turbo about in the center of the crossover.
 
minichopper6hp said:
F that. Go f-body manifold or go home. Single best manifold to run when going turbo.
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why do you say that? with a turbo setup youre cramming so much air into the LIM that it shouldnt matter how it gets there. youre still pressurizing it just the same. i would probably end up making something similar to what the stattama upper looks like if i were to do this on my own.
 


Bio248 said:
why do you say that? with a turbo setup youre cramming so much air into the LIM that it shouldnt matter how it gets there. youre still pressurizing it just the same. i would probably end up making something similar to what the stattama upper looks like if i were to do this on my own.
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It doesn't matter too much until you are in the 6000+rpm range, after that UIM design does have an affect.
 
im not sure that a lot of people are really running their cars much past 6500 RPM at the most unless they just have a stupid big cam.
 
He is saying that the intake design does have an effect up to about 6000 rpm then it doesnt matter. It does matter for air velocity. Read some interesting articles and you will find that no matter how much boost you throw at a motor, if you can maintain the air velocity, you will make more power. The velocity helps the cylinders to fill quicker. Why do you think that zzp gained 15whp by switching from a blocked off m90 to a l26 uim?
 
oh for sure, i would agree with you completely, but i would think that for a street car which most people are building that regardless of the upper intake it would make massive power. im sure switching to something with some flow characteristics helps a lot, but is it really necessary unless youre trying to squeeze out every bit of HP you can?
 
if you are going for die har. yes every little bit helps. but for fun daily driver....just block off the M90. that works great too.....

It doesnt always have to be the most expensive parts....just what makes it work for you.

I have seen pvc kits out there as well....holding up to some 9sec passes....
 


Yes but for the cost i think ill go the fbody intake setup. I can get the upper and lower intake manifold for $60 at the yard and there are some l26 heads out there too they want $100 for the set. Im porting those and running the more efficient intake design should get me some more power. I also like the fact that the fbody setup will have the tb pointed correctly to run an intercooler. I cant stand making a u bend to the l36 type intake manifold.
 
lol, I know, I hate the U bend... never realized those parts were that cheap nowa days.....

when I started building mine..they were pulling a premium.
 
I will be using two ford thunderbird intercoolers, joining them together by cutting off one end tank on each and welding them together. It will be one one long, short intercooler that will bolt in without having to cut a hood latch and they are very efficient and best of all my brother has two and im buying them for $40 for both.
 
I'm thinking of going turbo instead of s/c. Is there a turbo crossover out there other than ZZP's? It would be nice to just replace just the crossover and leave the front and rear manis in place, and not mess with the DP either.
 
Depends on what you want from your setup. You could buy or make a crossover and either way you have to buy or make a new downpipe.
 


There is a fair amount of things to relocate for the f-body intake, but it is a good intake for intercoolers.
 
minichopper6hp said:
Fair amount of things like what?
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Well the first issue is the water neck location. The intake differs, 95.5-99 will have a angled intake, 2000-2002 will be a straight intake on the f-body. The fuse box might be in the way, not sure if the angled intake even clears this. The tb adapter will have to be made or use a fbody tb, which shouldn't be too bad, the battery relocated, possibly relocate icm and coilpacks depending on coolant hose location from the elbow. Then you have some wires to move across the engine bay. Its been done a few times, but it gets a little messy is all.
 
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