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Hello!

that plug looks rather new still. what kind is it?

if your finding the rear plugs hard to get to pull the dog bone mounts bolts and pull the engine forward, makes about 4 more inches of room.

you can ratchet strap it to the rad support.
 


Dam, those rear plugs were a bear......Thanks for the removal suggestion. I'll be sure to use it next time. All of the plugs looked the same. They were Autolites.

Trying to upload a video now.
 
do the compression test. once chipped they can misfire still.

also look for cracks in the porcelain on the plugs cracks it will cause mis fires too.
 
Scottydoggs said:
do the compression test. once chipped they can misfire still.

also look for cracks in the porcelain on the plugs cracks it will cause mis fires too.
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Yep, going to test compression in the morning. I'm also buying new plugs just for the heck of it. Are there any types/brands better for this type of set up?
 
being your only pushing 7 psi, stock iridium plugs would work just fine.

can you see a name on the old plugs or a #? if they are platinum that could also cause misfires. these engines dont like the plat plugs one bit.

you could also use copper core plugs, at the stock heat range. they are cheap at 2 bucks a plug but only last 10 to 15,000 miles.
 
Autolite 103. Thanks for the help!

So, the iridium plugs last longer? They are the best for this set up? I run them in my Harley and they work well as far as I can tell.

Funny that the compression should be around 160.....same as my Harley.....
 
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yup, the iridium are what it came from the factor with. they should last up to 100,000 miles but id swap them at more like 60 or so.

mine are 3 years old now but ive only put like 12,000 miles on them, i pulled them over the summer and they still look damn good.
 
the more boost you add the cooler the plug we use. 103 are fing cold for 7 psi. stock is what a 106?

when we pulley down you drop to a cooler plug, being your running less then the stock boost, the stock heat range plug will work just fine for you the way its set up right now.

103 iirc would be for like 3.0 pulley and like 11 psi

i still think this poor engine is hurt and it was turned down. those plugs say it was running way more boost then it is now. or the last owner really had no clue wtf he was doing.

fingers crossed.
 


traildog said:
Something else I'm curious about. There's a really heavy-duty looking radiator in front of the factory radiator. The hole cover has been removed (I assume for air flow).

Is the hole necessary? It's really ugly. I was thinking about some type of mesh there.


11582104606_50c6edf228_z.jpg
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I know I'm late to the party....but wow....^^^^
 
Scottydoggs said:
those plugs say it was running way more boost then it is now. or the last owner really had no clue wtf he was doing.

fingers crossed.
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Yea, mine are crossed too! I will do NO thrashing on this car until I find out. Compression test later today. THAT will tell a lot about the condition of the motor.

slick2500 said:
Are all the plugs the same and have about the same amount of wear on them, or do they all look about the same age?
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The plugs all look EXACTLY the same.:confused:

98GtpONcrack said:
Neat car! I'm tuned in.. and last resort you could part out some of it for sure!
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Which parts would YOU be interested in if that happens....... :th_biggrin2:


rodguezsciii said:
I know I'm late to the party....but wow....^^^^
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Upon further inspection, the bumper support was removed, a bar welded across the front, and the intercooler is bolted to the bar.

Yea, wow is right......... :th_shakinghead1:
 


Scottydoggs said:
if your finding the rear plugs hard to get to pull the dog bone mounts bolts and pull the engine forward, makes about 4 more inches of room.

you can ratchet strap it to the rad support.
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I'm going to try this when I do the compression test. When I pull the bolts, I'm wondering if the engine is going to move. I want to be able to get the bolts back in when I'm done.............
 
you got a Frankenstein there. looks like a l67 coil bracket and its got the super charger belt tentioner still on. but i cant see a double belt harmonic balancer.

the fuel rail, wheres it mounted to? the lim? or the heads? l67 the rail and injectors mount in the heads under the valve cover lip. the n/a the injectors mount in the lim you got there. one set of holes should be sealed off. either way it looking better compression wise. the l67 is a better block for boost.

the coil bracket on the pass side of the engine, take the bolt of the dog bone engine side. same for the other side, the engine will move but its supposed to rock.

now look at the coil bracket, theres a second hole in it a inch or so from the hole you took the bolt out of, set the dog bone and the bolt into this other hole while pulling the engine forward, use the bolt as a pin, it will hold the engine for you. no need to put the nut on.

theres some ticking and a crunching sound every now and a again. and it stumbled a bit when you goosed the gas.
 
Scotty if you look closely at the lim you can see where they welded the injector bungs closed.
And yeah that thing has a pretty bad miss, I could hear it in the video.
My vote is the po chunked a piston. If that is the case just pick up a used engine from the junkyard, it doesn't have to be a l67 block you can use a l36 or l26, a lot of guys use the l26 because you can easily find them with low miles for around $300

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........
 
traildog said:
Yea, mine are crossed too! I will do NO thrashing on this car until I find out. Compression test later today. THAT will tell a lot about the condition of the motor.



The plugs all look EXACTLY the same.:confused:



Which parts would YOU be interested in if that happens....... :th_biggrin2:




Upon further inspection, the bumper support was removed, a bar welded across the front, and the intercooler is bolted to the bar.

Yea, wow is right......... :th_shakinghead1:
Click to expand...

fuel rails, plug wires, aero force, solid red motor mounts, 3 pod thing the aero force is in.. to name a few ;)
 
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