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headers question

M

mcsddd

New member
im going to get speed daddy headers and ive read every thread you can imagine of. I still have some questions though because a lot of people are saying different things.

First should i use rtv or no? Ive seen some threads that say use a lot of it and some say dont use it at all.

For the zzp flex i looked on the website and it says 42mm,2 in, and 3 in. Am i getting the 3 in? also when i get the new flex should I have it welded in or will a clamp do the job?
 


one more question.. should i go catless or get a highflow cat from zzp? ive seen mixed opinions on this. I live where there are no emission test.
 
Well, you can go either way. Catless is easier/cheaper, so most people go that route. But if you want to not smell that fuel/rich smell, then get a cat.

I've installed a few Speed-daddy headers, and always used lots of RTV to be safe. Put a good thick bead around each edge of the crossover (where it meets the front/rear header) and on the downpipe, where each section of pipe meets. No need to RTV the flanges anywhere.

I havent had any issues with the flex section, but more power to you, getting a better unit welded in.

Also, make sure you plan on having the car down for 2 days. Last install, we started at about 9:30am, and went until almost 10pm...everything fought us.
 
im also planning to lower my car in the future. I noticed the downpipe on the headers is pretty low. How should i go about fixing this? would i have to do some sort of cutting and custom welding? I saw the thread with the jig and stuff but still confused.
 


Unless you're planning on going lower than 3 inches, you'll be fine with it not hitting. As with any lowering springs, make sure you avoid big bumps and potholes.
 


machinegunsquid said:
Well, you can go either way. Catless is easier/cheaper, so most people go that route. But if you want to not smell that fuel/rich smell, then get a cat.

I've installed a few Speed-daddy headers, and always used lots of RTV to be safe. Put a good thick bead around each edge of the crossover (where it meets the front/rear header) and on the downpipe, where each section of pipe meets. No need to RTV the flanges anywhere.

I havent had any issues with the flex section, but more power to you, getting a better unit welded in.

Also, make sure you plan on having the car down for 2 days. Last install, we started at about 9:30am, and went until almost 10pm...everything fought us.
Click to expand...

damn 97 that's why
 
yea i did a set on my 99, glance at billboosts guide, and when putting the back headerin drop the rear cradle and slide the back header in from the bottom.

remember to take your sparkplugs out and or change them when your done
 
we did it with the engine rocked completely forward w/o the mani or dogbones installed.
it could almost go but the 97 has some odd line routing for a few things
also our #1 problem was the tranny dip stick. last resort was to remove it, and well a perfect storm lead to a gallon of tranny fluid on the driveway

it was also 1000 times easier w/ the TB out
also removing the engine pull mounts, egr and unneeded brackets

i highly suggest getting your o2 setup before you start as i had the worst experience driving for a week w/o o2 and come to find out i need a new maf

but if you are going to piant the headers make sure you spray them warm and bake them for 15 mins or else you'll end up like me and having to start stop the car until the paint fully cured.

but the reward is def worth the 13 hours of hell
also squid is the mother ****ing man
 


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