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Header Installation help

Beelzeboul

Beelzeboul

New member
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so its suppose to be two 13mm bolts but my 10mm was fitting loosely because of how corroded it is I'm wondering if I should cut off the bracket and have someoen weld a pipe in between or to cut it before the bracket and just not use the bracket the headers came with
 


^what he said. If you have acess to oxy-acetylene then a blue tip hammer and some vice grips might get them out. Without a torch you can forget about unbolting them. A grinder and a drill is the only other way to save your flange. The bolts are gone anyway, might as well get new ones and use nuts on the back. If all else fails cut it off and get a piece of pipe but make sure they weld on some hangers if you do that.
 
I was thinking of cutting it and taking it to a shop and having them weld a pipe to connect after where the flange would be the other option would be to see if the sell a pipe that could make up the difference and getting one more band clamp . either way I was figuring I could just do away with the flange rather than trying to **** with it the pick doesnt do the rust justice but its widdled to nothing I would be able to drill into for sure or salvage by any means if ya think I might be wrong I can take some better pictures of it but it seemed like it came down to having them weld a new flange on or doing away with the flange that came with header and covering the gap with a pre cut pipe clamped or having it welded
 
You can go to autozone and get a piece of pipe and clamp it on, but you'll need a reducer as well if your DP is 3". There would be nothing wrong with that, just a PITA, especially to rig up a hanger. Is the flange itself rusted out or just the bolts?
 


I would not bother with having a new flange put on, just slip fit some universal pipes and reducers and clamp. Ore you going to run a rear O2? What headers are you installing?
 
That causes a problem because the rear O2 bung on speed daddys is in the tail peice with the flange that you are talking about eliminating. If you slip fit some peices of pipe you will have to weld in a new O2 bung. If the rear flange is saveable I would drill it and reuse it to save you from having to do any welding. If you have to get somebody to weld for you it is just your preference on the way you do it.
 
is the rear needed for tuning at all its not an issue to extinguish code...whatta pita....Wisconsin not fair to cars...preferably I dont want to need a welder im going to cut the bolts in the morning and see what it looks like and get a good picture up..but your saying saw the bolts and than drill them out of the flange...maybe I can just get a 2.25flanged pipe with a female end..
 


You really need a grinder or cut off wheel to grind the heads off of the bolts. Next remove the DP, grind the bolts flat on the rear flange and then drill the rest out. Get new bolts with nuts and washers (stainless if you can). Using a saw instead of a grinder is possible but will be difficult.

Hopefully your flange will be okay and you won't have to deal with any of this mess but you can try to find a flanged pipe, it would certainly make things simpler but my guess is that it would have to be ordered or made. You might get lucky though and a local store might have one. FYI alot of people will say female ends should always be the "flow in" side not "out" to reduce turbulence, but it shouldn't make a noticable difference.

Rear o2 just senses if the cat is working, it has no effect on how the car runs (unless it goes into a diagnostic mode, which is rare). If you don't want to run one, and don't want to throw a code then you need to have a PCM tune to remove the code. Some models can run an o2 simulator that will solve the problem. If you just want to leave it unplugged the only effect is a service light.
 
yeah I'm on pretty good terms with the guys at the muffler shop where if it isnt gonna effect me performance I can have a 2.25 flange with a 2.25 female end for nothing too pricey so I think thats what I will do I'm also consider some sort of coating for that I could spray on bolts and seals to prevent quick decay if you have any suggestions I'd appreciate them. who knows maybe I will be able to just grab some bolts after grinding them off but I hope for the best plan for the worst and at least I got all angles covered I'm going to open one more thread on my egr deletion while I'm in the process of this header installation if u guys can shoot me any input its always appreciated
http://www.grandprixforums.net/egr-deletion-plz-coins-66841.html#post859822

thanx
Robb
 
Use stainless bolts, nuts and washers, they will never rust. Any decent hardware store will have them. When you have the flange made don't have them thread it like the original, use nuts and washers instead.
 
well dsm was right after my dremel grinder making short work of the bolts the entire downpipe snapped off and with the play provided on the sd flange I think I should be able to ground out the stems and keep the same flange on the exhaust end which leaves me with just having to buy some new stainless steal bolts for securing thanx much for the input guys
 
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wonder where the line for cars is drawn cause I know texas cars stay beautiful underneath but its like those jackstand lips they tell you to use where if they have even been dusted by salt they rust and disintegrate.

ffdp had let me in on the egr delete in my other thread. and I appreciate the input on those engine lift brackets too anywhere I can make some room in there for a ratchet is a breath of life I got the holes drilled out today tapped with a diamond tip dremel and drilled with titanium bits took about 4 bits think the total for bits and bolts was about twenty bucks and still have to bore one out a lil more

hopefully she will be running tomorrow and ill be back at my tuner search

if u guys got any other deletions or upgrades I can do while in there throw em at me plz

already grabbed plugs dropped a heat range for the 3.4 pulley (waiting for a tuner)
 
tore into it today after drilling out the exhaust flange I was out of play when it came to bolting it on so dropping the rear o2 and having a pipe welded after I finish installation
had two bolts in the middle of rear header get their heads stripped so i bought a vice grip bolt puller awkward looking sockets but did the job beautifully bolts are GM only...so they will be in tomorrow and I can mount downpipe and head to the muffler shop for a weld got a feeling 5 block drive there with the gap and no cat is gonna be mind numbing loud
 
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