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Header and manifold Thread

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It's up to you. The speed daddy headers are popular because they fit well. Just RTV all the joints and you're good. If you want something that has history behind it (something i would consider) then the SSautochrome headers are good for 350 bucks. People having been running these for a while with no problems. I'd hate to buy the cheaper ones just to find out that something goes wrong a year down the road. The likelyhood of that happening is slim though.
 
Hey i've got some questions for both the Pacesetter and SSAC Headers. If someone takes a few minutes to answer these questions fully id really appreciate the help ! Thanks ! :th_thumbsup-wink:


-When it comes to the pacesetters are they extremely hard to seal ? Or just a little time consuming ? And exactly how intense is the weld job for these?

-Also as far as the SSAC what would i need to do to fix the slip joints ( is it practical ) ? And what are the cons for the O2 sensor hitting the floor board? (Noob question i know).

Thanks everyone !
 


I have an 04 GTP. 3.4" pulley, Thrasher CAI, MSD coil packs, 160 therm, reprogrammed pcm, 3" downpipe no cat. Looking to spend about $300 for headers. This is my dilemma, this is my dp Hogan Performance W-Body 3" Stainless Steel Modular Downpipe: 3800 Performance. Im running the straight pipe(no o2 snsr programmed out). I dont really want to get rid of it bc it fits perfect,its really solid, the flex location is where stock was, and it all bolts from the rear manifold to the resonator. What are my options (and links preferably) to upgrading? Should i just buy plogs and a ceramic crossover pipe? or should I buy the headers and modify to what i have already accordingly (if so please explain how in detail)? Is there somewhere I can get a set that just bolts to what I have? I want something simple do if I have to weld a little to accomodate what I have now that is ok. Please help... got money and anxious, I want to run another quarter one more time b4 winter to make up for the first time lol


and to verify how it works, starting from the front of the car to the back goes: front manifold, to crossover pipe, to rear manifold, to downpipe(flex), to u-bend/ Cat/straight pipe, resonator, y pipe muffler, tips. Is this the exhuast system?
 


Sell the downpipe and buy headers...because they come with their own. If you don't want to get rid of the downpipe...which btw you NEED headers on a GenV car with a 3.4" since you don't have NEAR the supporting mods...you should be at stock or a 3.6" at the lowest...then you WILL NEED a PLOG (which I don't think ZZP even sells anymore) or buy PEM's from 3800Performance. Otherwise...your gonna nuke your motor to smithereens.
 
That seems to be the most popular conclusion and the one I came to 3 days ago when I ordered my Speed Daddys.

I need and want 2 things.

1. I need to get by emissions testing done for an inspection sticker in Houston (P0420).
I know...., the c@ is the "most overly replaced item in the context of the P0420 code", so I did the following:

No Mods (well cone intake) just saying.
Had a few random P0301, P0303, P0306.

New plugs, 8mm wires.
Cleared the misfires (only temporarily).
Checked cleaned the one persistent misfire on P0303.
Vacuum at cruise is 15 Hg.
Did not have the Hg for the idle bench mark but 15 Hg sounds like a LOW idle bench mark for a GTP doesn't it?

My OverDrive cruising RPM has been gradually rising over time from 1200 RPM to now almost 2000 RPM. I get better mileage at 1200 RPM, 30 MPH, 31 MPG than now at 2000 RPM, 65 MPH, 24 MPG
(what used to be 1200 RPM, 65MPH, 31 MPG)

Increased back pressure at higher speeds?

I am thinking direct fit CAT MAG23405 for the inspection sticker, P0420, persistent misfire; low vacuum @ idle 15 Hg, declining mileage at higher speeds.
To address possible increasing back pressure?

http://www.performancepeddler.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=MAG23405


Next (only when done with 1.) .................... On to the Speed Daddy install.
2. I want to install the new Speed Daddy 3 inch "header, down pipe" in such a way that minimizes labor/welding transitioning back bone stock
(as /if needed).

I am thinking 3 inch high flow catalytic converter universal fit suggested here for my Speed Daddy 3 inch "header" and "down pipe" setup:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280452848347&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I was thinking "keep" the resonator to tone it down or does that just sound retarded?

I will post details as available. Comments welcome. Thanks
 
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The Speed Daddy's "CAT" connection are a slip-fit to the "downpipe" and a slip-fit to the "collector". The COLLECTOR is bolt-on to the "CATBACK" (RESONATOR).

Not sure if that helps. Correct me if I am wrong someone please.


DOWNPIPE [slip-fit] "CAT" [slip-fit] COLLECTOR [bolt-on] "CATBACK" (RESONATOR)>TAILPIPE (WHATEVER)
 
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they're actually a V band clamp to the downpipe. The downpipe itself is slipfit. And the crossover is slip fit.

And the downpipe bolts to the catback with a flange.
 
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