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Having trouble bleeding the cooling system

LHRxXD3adXx said:
98 how can i do that?
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Hold down both buttons/knobs until the climate control display shows 00.

Then you can turn the driver side knob to 12. Then turn the passenger side one click.

This will show you the engine coolant temp minus 60 degrees. Not sure why there is a 60 degree offset, but there is. If your temp is 200, then it will read 140 and so forth.
 


if the fans turn on at 212 like they should. but the dash gauge goes higher and its not really over heating, then then the temp sensor would be where i start.

big question is, is it truly going to over heat or not? is it lacking power, pinging, stalling out, over flow bottle burping and over flowing?

check the wires too, and the wires to that short pig tail harness, they bake in the exhaust heat and go bad over time. can cause the same issue.
 
Ok well these are all good ideas i think my temp sensor might be the issue. Im going to check more on this and ill let you guys know
 
heres the thing..... may sound retarded but how is the belt wrapped? it IS possible to wrap the wrong side of the water pump pulley and the stock belt will fit just fine. this will cause the water pump to cavitate the coolant and car will act like the coolant isnt flowing.
 
Ok my scaner says its 90c which is about 190f and the guage in the car reads 250f almos in the red zone. Can we say i have a bad temp sensor?
But why is it that my top radiator hose is really hot and bottom one is cold after my car was on for a good while?
 
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hot coolant enters the top of the rad, then cools it a lot by the time it leaves the lower hose back to the engine.

sounds like the sensor is bad.

my car with a 195 t stat runs around 190 to 195 moving, as high as 210-212 left idling.


you also need to remember the t stat only opens for a short amount of time. once cooler coolant hits the t stat it shuts again.
 
Scottydoggs said:
hot coolant enters the top of the rad, then cools it a lot by the time it leaves the lower hose back to the engine.

sounds like the sensor is bad.

my car with a 195 t stat runs around 190 to 195 moving, as high as 210-212 left idling.


you also need to remember the t stat only opens for a short amount of time. once cooler coolant hits the t stat it shuts again.
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Ok then i should be good. just need a sensor then. I also found the vacum leak while i was messing with the lower house haha
 
Hey guys so i got a new sensor and right away it went to red and its gave me a code reading a high circuit on the sensor. Is that sensor bad too? Now the car wont start
 


Yea no kidding i used 3 before if finally worked. The first 3 were from the same parts store then that last one was from a different and it finally worked
 
Now i replaced a caliper. Whats the best way too bleed my breaks i already went around the whole car bleeding it but still have no breaks
 


you have to bleed the master. theres a trick to it.

you can make a one man bleeder if you have some clear tubing that fits the bleeder nipple. i made one, works damn good. as im always working alone on my car.


if you only took the fronts off and the master stayed full the backs should be good to go, no need to bleed them.
 
Hey i did it exactly as the video has it and my breaks are still way to soft. I ended up going around the whole car 3 times
 
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