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Fuel pump or MAF?

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Corey Djcoreyt Tindal

New member
So I was driving home yesterday and my car stalled out during the dream cruise. What a place for that to happen, I know. Well anyways, it happened three more times on my way home. So from where it stopped on woodward to the three more times until it finally died was maybe 6 miles. I coasted into the stretch of the left turning lane in hopes of restarting the car. It died though. So my girlfriend and I tried to jump it, and nothing. Can hear a click. The car is fueled up and was was running alright the day before. Stalled out once. So to the point, fuel pump or MAF? Will a bad fuel pump throw a code or no?

I had a code pull up for the MAF at autozone but the guy I work with used to be a mechanic at a Toyota dealer and said a bad MAF shouldn't turn on the service engine light and did not wish to look at the car until he could take a thorough look at it.

Thoughts all?

Thank you!
 


unplug the maf and see what happens.. and have you check the valve on ya fuel rail for fuel pressure.. also do you hear ya pump prime when you turn ya key on?
 
The codes that came off the reader were cylinder 3 misfire; taken care of; and also possible bad MAF, check for vacuum leaks before checking the MAF. Zero vacuum leaks I came across. When my girlfriend and I tried to jump the car, the lights dimmed and you could hear it trying to start but got no where. The car is at home and i am currently at work.
 
when you get home.. listen for your fuel pump to prime before you start the car... if you dont hear it. then thats ya problem..if it primes.. unplug ya maf.. it will default it out and see if it cranks..
 
no such code for maybe the maf is bad.

and a bad maf will turn on the cel, a bad fuel pump will not turn on the cel.

and listen for the pump to prime when you first turn the key to the run position. if need be stick your head in the trunk and have someone turn the key for you.

see if you have pressure at the rail. theres a valve on the fuel rail you can push to see if gas shoots out, if nothing comes out, you have no gas getting to the engine.
 


Surprised no one said crank sensor yet. Possible cause for random stalling.

And as for the clicking, check all grounds and such if the battery is fully charged and your getting nothing.
 
Corey Djcoreyt Tindal said:
When my girlfriend and I tried to jump the car, the lights dimmed and you could hear it trying to start but got no where.
Click to expand...

I agree with Fivefinger...
Could this just be a dead battery?
Dead battery won't charge and will cause most of the problems you are experiencing.
Put a tester on the battery...should be about 12.3 volts.
 
When we hooked up the cables from my car to my girlfriend's car, it wouldnt turn over. All lights come on but dim greatly when trying to crank it. One detail I left out which I completely forgot about until now. The car would die each time I was accelerating. When the RPM gauge would hit 3k, it would sound like the engine was topping out n would proceed to stall. I will for sure check the battery though. Never had a bad battery that aloud me to listen to the radio and have a fully lit dash. My dumbass lost the key, so I will need to wait til morning to get a key cut.
 
if it wont crank you could be hydro locked, pull all the plugs and then try to crank it.

check your oil for coolant or the oil level being over filled.
 
hmmm, thats odd. Definitely checking that one out first. Low oil light came on, so I added some. Learn something new everyday. Thank you everyone for your ongoing help.
 


If your low oil light came on..when did it come on. Engine running or off? It's designed to come one with the engine stalled or off.

Check your fluid levels. Anything low is an indication. If you have all the coolant in the radiator and it's not low, the key clicks and that's it..check your battery cables and battery.
 
i filled it the previous night then drove the car home. A little over 10 miles. This was at 3am Saturday. Then used the car again around 9am, so 6 hours later. The car ran fine and stalled out once on friday. Stalled prior to the oil fill. Drove fine after the fill at 3am. Engine ran hard that morning. Then stalled 3 or 4 times before it finally stalled out on my way home. Waiting for my girlfriend to get home so I can get a key. Oh and the oil fill light came on while driving.
 
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Got paid on friday, so this has aloud for trouble shooting. Disconnected my battery and took it to autozone. They said the battery was low and not dead and hooked it up to a battery charger. Battery charged in 15 minutes, and the guy said it was good to go. So I hooked up my battery about 15 minutes ago and I go to turn the key and get the same click as before. Unplugged the MAF and got a click as well. So at this point in time...I am lost. I have never pulled the plugs on my car, so do not know how to reach the rear ones.
 
just finished trying to do the relearn procedure on my car and the key will not take. I have programmed another key previously and this time its not working out. Sound like it can be a sensor related issue? Where is the crank-position sensor located?
 


Corey.. I didn't notice if you said what year/model the car was. Being in the L26/L36 area I'm going on NA.

Rereading, I'm seeing that you have a charged battery and all you get is a click. To me this means one of two things.
1. I'd like you to check the coolant level in the radiator and tell me if it's low. By low..I mean at least an inch or two from the cap. This being low would point to a bad upper intake manifold and the motor being hydrolocked.

2. If #1 isn't the case then I would think the starter soleniod isn't working. If you jack up the car and support it with jackstands etc. Crawl under with a hammer and tap on the starter body while a friend tries the key. If the soleniod is bad, this often frees it up for one or two last starts. If it cranks..and or starts, this tells you the starter is bad.
 
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