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Fuel pressure gauges

GR8racingfool said:
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Top braided line goes to my fuel pressure safety switch for my nitrous system.
Bottom braided line goes to my fuel pressure gauge sending unit thats back on the firewall out of the way.

I installed that back in 2001 or 2002, and its been that way ever since. I am going to re do it some time, and sorta simplify it to a way I like it better.

~F~
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Off subject, beautiful engine bay.
 


More questions, in regards to the hose...

How do I make the hose? I mean, I'm holding the fitting in one hand, and the braided hose in the other. What do I do to join them with no leaks? Is it a barb type setup or what?

With all that hose, is there any bleeding necessary to get the air out? I know pressure is pressure and would be transferred through the air just as it would the liquid fuel, but just wondering.
 
Well im not sure what kind of fittings you are using but if it's braided hose and your using braided hose fittings then what you will have to do is.... Cut the hose to the length you want. dremell works best. or whatever you can find that will cut through the hose and not fray all of the stainless steel brade on the outside of the hose. Next you will basicly screw the first fitting on the hose,this is why it is much easier when the brade is not messed up.Make sure the fitting is screwed all the way down. So now you will basicly have a ''cap'' over the hose on that end with a small hole in the middle of the cap. This small hole is where you screw the next peice in that actually screws inside the hose itself. get it started by hand then you will need two wrenches because it will get hard.Keep screwing it down untill it is flush with the ''cap''.What this does is it expands the hose when you screw it into the ''cap'' and the ''cap'' keeps the outer side of the hose from expanding.That way there is a nice and tight seal. And thats it. One side is done.
 
I think I understand now. I was having trouble visualizing but now it makes sense. Thanks. :D

And I wasn't actually holding anything. It was hypothetical to get exact directions. ;)
 
Yeah it is kinda hard to tell you intead of showing you lol. I know your mechinicly inclined enough to do. Youll see how everything works once you have it in front of you.
 


Helpful tip on knowing what you need for a fitting, being male or female...think of human anatomy...the male has something sticking out, and the female gets something stuck in. :th_biggrin2: There you have it, male and female.

All AN fittings have a barb fitting type that meets each other, and takes very little torque to tighten them to a great seal. as soon as they meet each other, less than a 1/4 turn after that is all it takes. Too tight, you damage the barb. and the fitting and hose are now junk. Unless you want to use a lot of Teflon paste to get them to seal. The pipe thread on the other end of the fittings all get Teflon paste on the threads, the barb end goes in dry.

For me when I need to relieve pressure and have no schrader valve, I just unscrew a fitting at the rail with a rag under it and wrapped around it. Almost always i will only unscrew the fitting after the car has sat for some time, and the pressure has dropped down a lot.

~F~
 
For the NPT side of the adapters I posted above, I have to use teflon tape or similar?

I'm scrapping the hose idea for now, but that's only because I can't find a place I'm happy with mounting it. Plus there's a wire loom right there that I can tuck the wires back in to for easy routing.

I may end up mounting it to the back side (fender side) of my WizAired if I can find the right clamps to hold and mount a round sender about 2" in diameter. The wire routing from there would be easy, too.

And where do you guys buy the hose and the fittings to make the hose. If someone can show me some clamps to mount it with, I might still go with the hose idea. I'd need about three feet of hose, and the right fittings (links would be helpful, if only an example of what to look for). I have a dremel, so I'd just need to know what type of cutting wheel to use. I may even install a t-fitting or something and put the schrader valve back on.

This project interests me, but looking around on Summit I can't seem to find the right stuff to make hose with. :confused:
 
Npt's yeah teflon tape. I think it was said somewhere that teflon tape doesent withstand gas well at all. but i have never had a problem with using it on any fuel system...



dremel cutting wheel? heavy duty cuttoff wheel # 420 works fine. youll need a cupple.



what exactly do you need to hook up and i swii get you some links of the parts you need
 


I need something to go from the male -4 AN on the fuel rail to the 1/8" NPT on the sender. I haven't bought anything yet.

Though I may rush this project along so I can get the gauge hooked up and use it to troubleshoot my KR issues. :th_scratchhead:
 
Sabrewings said:
I need something to go from the male -4 AN on the fuel rail to the 1/8" NPT on the sender. I haven't bought anything yet.

Though I may rush this project along so I can get the gauge hooked up and use it to troubleshoot my KR issues. :th_scratchhead:
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is the npt on the sender male or female? are you planning on mounting the sender directly to the fuel rail with a fitting or are you planning on running a hose from the rail to the sender and connecting it that way?
 
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The sender has a male fitting.

I'd like to connect sender via a hose, but I have the feeling that will take more time than I feel like dealing with right now since I could use this gauge now. I will probably connect it straight to the fuel rail for now, then do the hose install at a later date when I have more free time and funds for it.
 
your going to have like 4 or 5 fittings doing it this way because they dont sell a -4an to 1/8'' npt adapter all in female. probably gunna cost almost as much...shoot you may not have hood clearance
 
TDCRacing said:
your going to have like 4 or 5 fittings doing it this way because they dont sell a -4an to 1/8'' npt adapter all in female. probably gunna cost almost as much...shoot you may not have hood clearance
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Sabrewings said:
Earl's Performance 991001ERL - Earl's Performance Couplers - summitracing.com

Earl's Performance 916104ERL - Earl's Performance AN to NPT Adapter Fittings - summitracing.com
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I posted that on the previous page. That will accomplish what I want.

And on L36 rails it will go off to the side in the direction of the airbox, not up.
 


I found everything I need and a nice write up on how to put it all together. It'd be $47 shipped from Summit for everything and 3 ft of hose. I plan to mount the sender in my WizAired or on the outside of it somewhere, but I don't know of any brackets to mount it with. :confused:
 
I've got everything ready for a simple install right now.

To be clear, I just take the schrader valve off by unscrewing it? Doesn't look hex shaped or anything, so some channel-lock type pliers?

Want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I unscrew it and have no way of pressurizing my fuel rail if something doesn't work out.
 
You will need something that looks like a valve stem tool. The schrader valve sits down inside the fuel rail fitting.
 
Right so you would unscrew the actual valve out. Not the fitting from the fuel rail.
 
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