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Fuel pressure gauges

Sabrewings

New member
Anyone have one? My main question is how do they install to our stock fuel system? I'm not drilling/cutting anything, so that's out. My best guess is that they would go onto the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. But, that's a guess at most.

Help is appreciated.

(Some background on this... I'm getting a 3-gauge pod for my car, and there are no 2-gauge pods available for Impalas. I will one day have a boost gauge, but do not currently have a power adder. I can live with one gauge pod having a cover, but not two. I already have my Aeroforce gauge.)
 


if you go with a fuel pressure get an isolator also (about the price of 2 gauges really) unless you like the idea of gas at your pillar, most screw onto the schrader valve (all the ones I've seen do anyway)
 
Do it right, and get an electric one. You will most likely need to get some kind of adapter so that you can screw the sending unit into the schrader valve on the rail like archemedes said. The correct adapter style is the AN -4 type fitting, they tighten down and no leaks. I used Russel fittings on mine, and everything is all well.
 
Electric here as well.

Sending unit under the hood attached to the fuel rails with a fitting and some additional hose.

The "black box" that came with my auto meter gauge is mounted under the dash stuck to the BCM, and then wired to the gauge in the pillar.

Never a fan of mechanical gauges that have fluid coming into the cabin. The only mechanical gauge I have is a vacuum/boost gauge.

~F~
 
i have a prosport but recently its been going crazy…like at idle or no throttle applied it’ll stay at ~46psi but if I go over 10% throttle it’ll peg at 100psi for some unknown reason? It worked fine before I dropped the car off to get the trans repaired but after I got the car back it never worked the same. I double-checked all the connections mainly the wires off the sender unit as well as the 12v constant for the gauge(have it rammed into the 10amp radio fuse) and a good ground but to no avail.
 
^ my guess is a possible bad sending unit. Since the other possible reasons seem to have been checked over by you already.
 


Oh, definitely an electrical sender. I was actually thinking about one of these:

Blue gauges, Boost gauges, EGT gauges, oil pressure,

Matches my Aeroforce well. But I might be finding something else due to people citing brightness issues during the day.

So, I think their gauge uses a 1/8" NPT fitting, so I'd need something like this?

Powertrain Control Solutions - Online Store

And you said some hose.... I don't think I like that idea. I'd rather not have to worry about sealing something where as these fittings seal themselves. Maybe if you had a picture I'd feel better. :o
 
DSCF0357.jpg


Top braided line goes to my fuel pressure safety switch for my nitrous system.
Bottom braided line goes to my fuel pressure gauge sending unit thats back on the firewall out of the way.

I installed that back in 2001 or 2002, and its been that way ever since. I am going to re do it some time, and sorta simplify it to a way I like it better.

~F~
 
I don't have any experience making my own braided line with fittings, so I'm not sure that it would really be an option for me. I guess I'll just have to buy the gauge I want and figure something out when I have it.
 
Neither did I.

Seal the threads, and screw everything together. Most the lines were AN fittings, so they go together tight and DRY meaning no need for thread sealant if you buy good quality fittings. If they are poor quality, they will seep, or leak.

Bought all my stuff from Summit Racing. Cheaper with their "box fee" than buying it local.

~F~
 
Neither did I.

Seal the threads, and screw everything together. Most the lines were AN fittings, so they go together tight and DRY meaning no need for thread sealant if you buy good quality fittings. If they are poor quality, they will seep, or leak.

Bought all my stuff from Summit Racing. Cheaper with their "box fee" than buying it local.

~F~



Yeah making those hoses and such is really a breeze. If you can screw a nut and bolt together you can do this.

GR8- how did you do that valve cover? or did you but it like that??

Its a nice neutral color that sets everything off real nice. What kind of nos are you running and how much of a shot? Tell me a little about it if you dont mind. I am considering it. Pm me if ya want...didnt mean to thread jack...continue
 


Neither did I.

Seal the threads, and screw everything together. Most the lines were AN fittings, so they go together tight and DRY meaning no need for thread sealant if you buy good quality fittings. If they are poor quality, they will seep, or leak.

Bought all my stuff from Summit Racing. Cheaper with their "box fee" than buying it local.

~F~

Thanks Farns. I'll look into it. Gotta figure out where I want to hide the sender then...

Oh, any special fitting I should look for to make sure the part I screw on the Schrader valve actually depresses the pin and opens the valve? I don't know much about different fittings, so if it's already part of the AN fitting then I guess it's taken care of.

And what type of fittings go onto the stainless hose, and what size hose? Barb, compression, etc? I was looking at Summit and I can find the parts easily if I know what I'm looking for.
 
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Usually with those type of fittings, you'll have to remove the schrader valve all together.

Like Jason said, don't cheap out on the fittings, get the good ones and they won't leak.
 
Thanks. At least now I know what I'm doing with it. Not sure if I should go ahead and do this to my L36 fuel rail, or what until I have the L67 rail on there... :th_winking:
 
GR8- how did you do that valve cover? or did you but it like that??

Its a nice neutral color that sets everything off real nice. What kind of nos are you running and how much of a shot? Tell me a little about it if you dont mind. I am considering it. Pm me if ya want...didnt mean to thread jack...continue

The valve cover...I just did it. Nope, did not buy it, I made it myself. Thats a real piece of carbon fiber there too BTW.

Nice neutral color, yes in deed. Same color as the transmission and engine when those were assembled. Though the valve cover has clear coat on it only.

The NITROUS I am running is a NOS Nitrous kit from Holly. Usually between a 55-65 dry shot.

What is there to know...its a nitrous system with a purge added, and it makes you go faster when you use it. Need more info, ask some questions, and feel free to shoot a PM if ya want.

~F~
 
Bringing this back up, the schrader valve just unscrews from the fuel rail?

And, a question for Farns. Why did you decide to relocate your fuel pressure sender instead of having sitting at the fuel rail? Seems like a lot of line to fill with fuel.
 


Its a schrader valve, just like your car tire has. You can use and core remover tool to unscrew it from the base that holds it, in this case you can unscrew it right out of the fuel rail yes. lefty-loosie.

example:
tube2.jpg


Why did I decide to mount it where I did...couldn't tell you honestly. The sending unit now sits on the fire wall. I think I did it so I could unscrew the line from the fuel rail and service what I needed to and it wouldn't be in the way. But there is enough line that I can have it attached to the fuel rails, and just move the rails out of the way no problem. It just makes working on it easier.

You can mount it where ever you want, there is nothing to say "this" is the spot it must be in for everyone. Where I mounted mine, works for me and my set up more than fine. Only thing I am going to change is the fuel pressure safety switch for my nitrous, I am going to mount that as a inline installment instead of having it as its own line like it is now.

~F~
 
To be sure, I need fitting with a -4 AN male thread that will screw INTO the fuel rail, right? Not a -4 AN female fitting? Then the other side of the fitting is 1/8 NPT female to accommodate the 1/8 NPT male from the pressure sender?
 
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