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Flashing SES @ 120MPH almost every time...

look guys even though it irked me in the beginning with the motor blow up, and tree ornament comments, i really appreciate you taking the time to answer another similar thread. i know they are out there for me to look up but i wanted to describe my specific case and i appreciate the answers...
 


For $1000 you can get a new WBS IC and a downpipe.
You could also hunt the classifieds and get them for cheaper, and go with headers instead.

There's a good chance that with you running the absolute piss out of your car that there is some damage. What are the plugs gapped at? No need to go to a cooler heat range on a near stock setup.
As far as the thermostat, I agree that keeping the 195* in there is the best.

Could be spark blow out, with the combustion chamber staying so hot for such a long time it's possible. You could try closing the gap down and see if that helps (Though I don't condone taking a poor handling car with tires that aren't properly rated for that speed to those speeds)
Usually a clogged catalytic wont let you accelerate past a certain RPM, not usually a specific speed.
it could ALSO be the PCM trying desperately to save your **** by pulling spark and fuel to keep you from blowing up.
The SES flashing means there's a continuous misfire condition. Swap plugs or wires and see if the misfire follows it. No need to go fancy on the plug wires or spark plugs, though you can if you want. (A set of OEM plug wires and some AL606's will be fine)

One other note to keep in mind, our cars aren't meant for sustained high RPM operation. You wont be getting proper lubrication throughout the motor doing long high speed runs. Just food for thought.
 
machinegunsquid said:
For $1000 you can get a new WBS IC and a downpipe.
You could also hunt the classifieds and get them for cheaper, and go with headers instead.

There's a good chance that with you running the absolute piss out of your car that there is some damage. What are the plugs gapped at? No need to go to a cooler heat range on a near stock setup.
As far as the thermostat, I agree that keeping the 195* in there is the best.

Could be spark blow out, with the combustion chamber staying so hot for such a long time it's possible. You could try closing the gap down and see if that helps (Though I don't condone taking a poor handling car with tires that aren't properly rated for that speed to those speeds)
Usually a clogged catalytic wont let you accelerate past a certain RPM, not usually a specific speed.
it could ALSO be the PCM trying desperately to save your **** by pulling spark and fuel to keep you from blowing up.
The SES flashing means there's a continuous misfire condition. Swap plugs or wires and see if the misfire follows it. No need to go fancy on the plug wires or spark plugs, though you can if you want. (A set of OEM plug wires and some AL606's will be fine)

One other note to keep in mind, our cars aren't meant for sustained high RPM operation. You wont be getting proper lubrication throughout the motor doing long high speed runs. Just food for thought.
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at the moment i'm back to a stock .60 gap maybe go for .50-.55, and i've been wondering most pulls i have done are from 65-on up to those speeds, so while it may not be a specific speed, maybe the issue creeps in due to heat when egt's get too high...idk..I also didn't realize the lubrication issue....if anything i'm glad i change it every 3000 with full synthetic...hopefully that helped some. as cheap as they are i'm going to drop some 606's gapped in .50-.55 and try that out but for the mean time until i do some supporting mods stay off the gas.
 
Hit 115 in my car ONCE racing a gp. Not planning on doing it for a while. Killed a wheel bearing in the process
 
I'm fairly modded and I only go as fast as I can trap in the 1/4. I also have less than $1000 in all my parts
 


U need a GXP.....the engine can handle high rpm and speed longer :P not saying the tranny can handle the engine though.
 
DirtDog said:
U need a GXP.....the engine can handle high rpm and speed longer :P not saying the tranny can handle the engine though.
Click to expand...

honestly i've owned an n/a, now the supercharged...while the supercharged has the potential, i think i'm going to put a little money into it, and then trade for for a low mileage gxp and just work on that car... but for now i have a few questions more.....i used my torque app for once and realized it can measure KR....i made 3 passes from 0-100MPH about 30 minutes apart allowing the system to cool down...However, immediately after each pull i stopped the car got out and found that the exhaust manifolds were glowing, as well as the piping right before and after the cat. now KR readings were between 1.0-1.7, but never peaked over the 1.7. made the switch to autolite copper 606 just for a little information, no ses this time, but didn't push it again as much either to higher speeds.... so with a little bit of information, as long as its reliable, what does anyone have to say about these findings?, also catalyst temperatures never peaked over 1250F, and at idle those catalyst temperatures were sitting at 900-980F. Boost Peaked at 8.1psi
 


Temps seem high to me, through I've only used a temp gun on a fully heated up cat a few times, never have I seen over 500-550. I'ts usually 300-400 right before the cat and near the same temp out the back. The inside on the cat is of course much much higher.
 
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