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First Modification



...ahhhhh!

what is your peoples need for low intake temperatures? you dont need them! i ran an open cone on my car from the beginning. i guarantee under any conditions that an open cone will make more power than any other intake.
 
Bio248 said:
...ahhhhh!

what is your peoples need for low intake temperatures? you dont need them! i ran an open cone on my car from the beginning. i guarantee under any conditions that an open cone will make more power than any other intake.
Click to expand...

cars are faster with a colder intake charge. its proven. race your car in 90 degree weather vs 40 degree weather and tell me its not slower in the heat.
 
no crap, but how are you going to produce lower than ambient temperatures? it just doesnt happen. therefore, my 120* IAT still produce as much power as someone running completely ambient at 80* because of the timing tables and how much the blower negates the intake temperature just by heating it up anyway. was my car a monster on a 3.4 pulley in winter? yes. did it feel more like a dog when it was 80* outside in summer? yes. you cannot control weather, so do yourself a favor and make an intake that FLOWS well. the intake temperatures just do not matter that much. i will argue this up and down for weeks.
 
hourang said:
wouldnt it get too much heat soak with the exhaust crossover right there? or is this only advised if you have headers with ceramic coating?
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coating or not...an open cone is better than that thing he calls an intake.

IMO...I would never go open cone until I hit the 3.2"ish pulley area...but thats me...plus at the rate he is going...an open cone is a sh!t ton better than V1 or V2
 
Bio248 said:
no crap, but how are you going to produce lower than ambient temperatures? it just doesnt happen. therefore, my 120* IAT still produce as much power as someone running completely ambient at 80* because of the timing tables and how much the blower negates the intake temperature just by heating it up anyway. was my car a monster on a 3.4 pulley in winter? yes. did it feel more like a dog when it was 80* outside in summer? yes. you cannot control weather, so do yourself a favor and make an intake that FLOWS well. the intake temperatures just do not matter that much. i will argue this up and down for weeks.
Click to expand...

so is there a magic number that the air can only be heated to a certain degrees or something? 40degrees hotter is a lot less dense air, having the cooler air would produce more power and let you run more timing with less knock. not trying to argue here just trying to understand it.
 


once moving, the open cone gets close to ambandent temps. its only when your stoped for a bit that they start to rise. once back up to speed there back down to ambandent.
 
blowfishRus6 said:
once moving, the open cone gets close to ambandent temps. its only when your stoped for a bit that they start to rise. once back up to speed there back down to ambandent.
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hrm that makes sense, tho for the first 60ft im sure it affects it, but with traction issues you may want it like that anyway lol.
 
get a quicker refresh rate IAT sensor and you wont have that problem when youre taking off from the line because it will cool down faster.
 


Fear no longer my friends! The Fail Intake v3 is out!

I bought this 4" filter today at autozone. I placed it next to the old 3" one for comparison:

01072010090.jpg


Here's how I set just part of it into the fender:


01072010092.jpg



Here's the finished product with an improv heat wall:

01072010097.jpg


01072010098.jpg



Could we also add the open cone to the "how to safely mod your 3800 engine" write up? I'm not sure if it's there, I've only read through the pulley drop part, but it could be mentioned in the FWI section where it says "build your own".
 
The point it is your supposed to read the entire thing...not just how to drop pulley's unsafely and blow up your car.
 


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