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Engine Reassembly Help.. L67 lots of pics

What can I do about this and take it off safely?
a6d0f1ec.jpg
 


2000 grit sand paper with 30 weight motor oil.
Do it with the cylinder horizontal so nothing ends up between the piston and cylinder wall.
Wipe it dry with a clean paper towel then apply a thin coat of clean motor oil.
 
BTW
Did you paint the supercharger sealing surface of the LIM?
If you did I would take that off of there.
 
Honiing stone or maybe a buff with steel wool/green scrubby. I once took a cam to a machine shop to have it polished and the owner explained that basically they would use a green scrubby and some oil, lightly rub. That's a basic polish to get surface rust off. It worked great for me.

From
IMG_6857.jpg


To
IMG_6864.jpg
 
Rico said:
2000 grit sand paper with 30 weight motor oil.
Do it with the cylinder horizontal so nothing ends up between the piston and cylinder wall.
Wipe it dry with a clean paper towel then apply a thin coat of clean motor oil.
Click to expand...
I have super fine steel wool the finest I could get it is 0000 idk if u know what I mean by that.
Can I use that and some motor oil with it on block?
Will be doing it today If all is good with that..
 
BillBoost37 said:
Honiing stone or maybe a buff with steel wool/green scrubby. I once took a cam to a machine shop to have it polished and the owner explained that basically they would use a green scrubby and some oil, lightly rub. That's a basic polish to get surface rust off. It worked great for me.

From
IMG_6857.jpg


To
IMG_6864.jpg
Click to expand...

Now that's sweet I will give it a quick try right now with some motor oil and a very fine steel wool hope it works fine need to put this together
 


What do you think good enough?
b7643bf7.jpg

I cleaned off the surface rust and that **** worked great especially with the motor oil thanks guys :)
 
The work on the head should be OK but if you can see any really jagged metal in that chip I would get a really small grinding bit for the Dremel and smooth it out. It's the exposed casting grain that will cause detonation. Under hard acceleration a little glowing ember will fire that cylinder off early. People polish the combustion chambers for the very same reason. The smoother the less chance of pre-combustion.
 
Rico said:
The work on the head should be OK but if you can see any really jagged metal in that chip I would get a really small grinding bit for the Dremel and smooth it out. It's the exposed casting grain that will cause detonation. Under hard acceleration a little glowing ember will fire that cylinder off early. People polish the combustion chambers for the very same reason. The smoother the less chance of pre-combustion.
Click to expand...
i think i got it all down compared to the sharp edges it had and really cleaned them up pretty good especially the block.
 
FYI your head is cracked between the intake and exhaust seats. on your pic, it would be the left cylinder, think i saw one on the middle cylinder as well. my heads were cracked in the same place.
 
TEK310 said:
FYI your head is cracked between the intake and exhaust seats. on your pic, it would be the left cylinder, think i saw one on the middle cylinder as well. my heads were cracked in the same place.
Click to expand...

Do you mean in the red circle?

head1.jpg
 


Ok so i finally cleaned up the heads and block i just have to take one bolt out of the head since it is blocked by a manifold bolt and doesnt let me take it out.
But is there a way in wich we shoud torque the bolts? meaning the top bolts first or bottom ones?
 
Working length wise start at one of the 4 center bolts and work your way to the edge diagonally across center then across.

Then go across centerdiagonally
Then go across

7 1 3 5
8 4 2 6
 


Rico said:
Working length wise start at one of the 4 center bolts and work your way to the edge diagonally across center then across.

Then go across centerdiagonally
Then go across

7 1 3 5
8 4 2 6
Click to expand...

Thanks the numbering helps lol
hopefully by this week i can put the head on and torqued i just need to get that darn head bolt out
 
The hex on the end of the exhaust stud holding you up is a 5.5mm. If it's rusty or you strip the hex, put one of the exhaust nuts on it backwards, then put a nut on forwards and using two wrenches, lock them together. That should allow you to take it off.
 
BillBoost37 said:
The hex on the end of the exhaust stud holding you up is a 5.5mm. If it's rusty or you strip the hex, put one of the exhaust nuts on it backwards, then put a nut on forwards and using two wrenches, lock them together. That should allow you to take it off.
Click to expand...

Thanks never would of thought of that i think that would much easier to do i shall give it a try
 
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