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Engine help

looking at the temp sensor won't help you. there might be an ohms test out there, but resistance would change based on temperature. the relief valve on the thermostat is designed to let air escape while car is running, once a steady coolant stream is flowing, close the valve, this should've bled all necessary air from system.
 


JamesIvey24 said:
looking at the temp sensor won't help you. there might be an ohms test out there, but resistance would change based on temperature. the relief valve on the thermostat is designed to let air escape while car is running, once a steady coolant stream is flowing, close the valve, this should've bled all necessary air from system.
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Thank you
But I turned the valve about 3 turnes and nothing comes out
Could I have put the main belt on the wrong way
With way is the water pump supposed to turn
Is turning counter clock wise at this moment
 
if your car was running and you had the valve open and nothing was coming out...then its bleeding air. when the car comes up towards operating temp that should turn into steam and then eventually steady coolant. it's highly unlikely you have the belt routed in a way that the pump is turning backwards. ...and counter clockwise is the correct direction for the water pump.....the smooth side of the belt should be against the w/p pulley
 
ScottyDoggs said:
the w/p should have pumped the rad dry, once turned off a little falls back into the rad from the engine, you know how water like to find its level.

you can hook the rad hose back up and fill it with coolant while it runs.

your temp sensor wires maybe bad if they got wet during the flush and its acting up. its a little wire harness temp sensor to the lim front.

or you have air trapped in the t stat housing still that needs to be bled out.
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I put the rad hose back on when I didn't see any more water coming out
but I didn't even use a half gallon of antifreeze before I could not get anymore in
 
JamesIvey24 said:
if your car was running and you had the valve open and nothing was coming out...then its bleeding air. when the car comes up towards operating temp that should turn into steam and then eventually steady coolant. it's highly unlikely you have the belt routed in a way that the pump is turning backwards. ...and counter clockwise is the correct direction for the water pump.....the smooth side of the belt should be against the w/p pulley
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I will leave the car on for a little longer till I see something come out of the valve then
Thanks
 
Ok so I took the bleeder valve off while the car was running and all of a sudden water and air started coming out
And when I went to shut the car off so I could put the valve back on I noticed that the temp gauge started working to
 


there ya go, air bound she was. you dont have a drilled t stat for sure. you need to wait for the t stat to open up to bleed it. and that can take a while idling.
 
Thanks for the help
I just don't know about not having enough antifreeze in there
Like I Said Less Then Half a Gallon Is all that I got in
 
it should have taken more coolant when the t stat opened up, dropping the rad level.

if not you can pump out a 1/2 gallon of coolant via the top hose, only you need to wait for the t stat to open if its back in.

or if you have some clear tubing, ( about 3 to 4 feet) you can siphon the rad and dump in the new coolant.
 


run your car a few days, as is...and check your radiator and top it off..then run a day or two and get a antifreeze ball-checker..find out what kind've mix you ended up with.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
it should have taken more coolant when the t stat opened up, dropping the rad level.

if not you can pump out a 1/2 gallon of coolant via the top hose, only you need to wait for the t stat to open if its back in.

or if you have some clear tubing, ( about 3 to 4 feet) you can siphon the rad and dump in the new coolant.
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The stat is back in, I shouldn't take the hose off while the car is running. Or should I
 
these engines also dont hold a whole lot of coolant, the engine i dropped in was bone dry heads off, knock sensors out, turned the block over a lot too.

it only took about 2 gallons to fill it up.

so a gallon of straight coolant is pretty much a 50/50 mix once added. i dumped 1/2 a gal out the jug to another one, then filled both jugs with water and filled the dry engine up via the rad only.

only did that cause it was bone dry inside. no water left from a flush in the block.
 
valente said:
The stat is back in, I shouldn't take the hose off while the car is running. Or should I
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you need to let it cool off first, then you can open the system if its closed and the car is hot now.

once cool take the hose off the rad and when the t stat opens it will pump out the hose. catch what comes out so you can re use it if you need to top off more after you add the new coolant. as its got coolant in it already.
 


When bleeding, you don't need to completely remove the bleeder screw. Just crack it while the cars running until a solid stream of coolant comes out. Don't be afraid of doing this. I was so I had a friend help me, but it's very straight forward. Get your car up to normal temperature and then crack the bleeder screw. Air will screw out and just a little coolant too. It's gonna be messy and may burn a little but that's normal. Keep doing this until every time you open the bleeder, only coolant comes out. Be sure to keep filling up the overflow too, as that's where the coolant will be sucked from.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
you need to let it cool off first, then you can open the system if its closed and the car is hot now.

once cool take the hose off the rad and when the t stat opens it will pump out the hose. catch what comes out so you can re use it if you need to top off more after you add the new coolant. as its got coolant in it already.
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Ok, will do that tomorrow during the early morning
Its to muggy out there at this moment.
Thank you
 
01Grand PrixGT said:
When bleeding, you don't need to completely remove the bleeder screw. Just crack it while the cars running until a solid stream of coolant comes out. Don't be afraid of doing this. I was so I had a friend help me, but it's very straight forward. Get your car up to normal temperature and then crack the bleeder screw. Air will screw out and just a little coolant too. It's gonna be messy and may burn a little but that's normal. Keep doing this until every time you open the bleeder, only coolant comes out. Be sure to keep filling up the overflow too, as that's where the coolant will be sucked from.
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The only reason I took the bleeder screw was because I could not see any water leaking out
And yes I did get burned trying to screw it back on while the car was running, Wont do that again :D
 
Well my engine light is not on anymore once the temp sensor started working
The other thing I found is this, I had this 2 connectors switched around
I don't know why they have the same connections
I think it was the one giving me the p0069 code
 
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