• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

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    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Don Rome Strut Tower Brackets

gingerdude

gingerdude

Donating Users
Someone I know had an older Impala they got rid of. Went ahead and grabbed the strut bar off of it. Anyone have the DR brackets they don't want anymore? I'll take both fronts and backs if available.
 


Yeah Don Rome still makes them as he gets requests for them. If you are not in a hurry, I'll be getting rid of mine at some point. I got the actual GM mounting hardware for the front/rear STBs so I'm going to go that route eventually.
 
The GMPP Strut Tower Braces require drilling and bolting to the strut tower. The DR brackets eliminate that... Just sayin.
 
Yeah I was just about to say, you're comfortable with drilling your strut towers? If so, I'm not in any hurry to get mine together, so I am willing to wait. I wasn't intending to put the strut bars in originally, but as I have gotten ahold of some I will. Figured I would see if I could pick up a used set before I spend cash on new ones.
 
Quick questions I just thought of. I have a bar for the 3400 Impala. I have the 3100. I know the bar will clear the engine fine, but will it clear my hood? And for the rear I want to look out for the 3800 bar correct?
 


gingerdude said:
Quick questions I just thought of. I have a bar for the 3400 Impala. I have the 3100. I know the bar will clear the engine fine, but will it clear my hood? And for the rear I want to look out for the 3800 bar correct?
Click to expand...

It should be the same bar if using the DR brackets. And yeah I have no problem drilling my towers. It's a lot less scary than you think. My front struts don't have enough threads to use the brackets, but the DR brackets will be a nice template. And the rears don't really need the brackets because the bar uses one of the strut bolts already, just needs one more hole. I'm really just waiting for another reason to pull my struts and i'll do it.

Put the bar on your tower and gently close your hood to see if it clears. DR bracket adds another .25 to that.
 
Yeah the thickness of the DR bracket was what I was curious about. It will raise it slightly, but that's not much. The 3400 bar has different bends in it to clear my alternator.
 
I made my own for pretty cheap, but I have no life. lol

2017-08-20_09-26-26 by Ben Stryker, on Flickr

3/16" plate steel, I cut them out, ground them down, drilled and tapped the holes, then sprayed them with some underbody coating.

In total, ~$25 in materials and a 6-pack for a buddy to let me borrow his plasma torch. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 


I wish I could make my own, but unfortunately I don't have the tools to do so.

Industrial any idea of timeframes or just not completely sure yet?
 
If you guys had any local trade schools near by and had access to autoCAD, these could be made for pretty cheap. The local college here has a fabrication class that uses a laser CNC, so I could have these cut out fairly easy. I am a certified designer.
 
gingerdude said:
Industrial any idea of timeframes or just not completely sure yet?
Click to expand...

Not to leave you hanging, but I wasn't going to sell them until I had a reason to pull my suspension to mount the GM brackets. Figured once it got too cold to drive it maybe.

No offense but I'm not going to spend $70 for an alignment too sell you $50 worth of brackets ;)
 
Below Average Joe said:
If you guys had any local trade schools near by and had access to autoCAD, these could be made for pretty cheap. The local college here has a fabrication class that uses a laser CNC, so I could have these cut out fairly easy. I am a certified designer.
Click to expand...

I can send you the measurements and template I made, if you would like something to start playing around with... :th_thumbsup-wink:

Mine isn't necessarily pretty, but it's shaped so that it will clear the coolant overflow tank and be reversible. Just the one shape for both sides makes it easier to produce. :D
 


That's up to you buddy. I have access to autoCAD and Inventor. I also have access to SolidWorks, but I'm not as well versed in that. Shoot me a PM if you want to do that. I am still friends with the head of the engineering program at the local college, so i technically still have access to the laser CNC.
 
Industrialfish, np just curious.

I'll take a copy of the template as well. Wouldn't hurt to have I guess. Do you have templates for the backs?
 
I actually haven't gotten around to making brackets for the rear... Making the fronts took quite a bit of effort for me, mostly due to my limited amount of forward thinking and repeatedly modifying them until they fit properly... since the STB's just slide right over the strut studs, it'll be fine for the time being.

Now that I've done it once (and learned what NOT to do lol), the process is simple to repeat.

This car needs ALOT more love in other places, but this weekend I will try getting the trunk cleaned out and at least make a template for the brackets. Then it's just a matter of writing down measurements and refining the template.

But right now, it's bedtime. lol
 
So this is the issue I am curious about. I have the 3100, so I have a strut bar from a 3400 W body. As the two engines are identical I figured I would need it to clear my alternator. When I test fit the bar in the car it goes back towards the firewall more. It has very little clearance back there. I am worried that Don's brackets may make it hit the firewall and I'll end up having to drill them in anyways.

https://imgur.com/vVy0sO0
https://imgur.com/bVwaqvN
https://imgur.com/ywGaZ04
https://imgur.com/DWyNIg6

Anyone with experience with this?
 
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