• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Differential

Get the tuning stuff from Scott and look in the folder that applies to trans. You'll find what you need on which way it goes in there. Sorry to see it. Not very common, but it does happen.
 


I did pull it out today and look at it for damage. I mightve pulled it out the other day. I dont remember, especially with this heat. I know its installed correctly for sure now, recessed side against the parking gear.

Swapped pins and my diff is back in now. Only think is when i slide the cover on, i have to push to get it to sit flush with the case. The output shalf is pushing outwards towards me as I push in on the locked in place diff. is this normal?
 
Can be.. if the output shaft isn't locked in yet. I typically would have both cv's removed, the output shaft would be sticking out drivers side a little, put diff in, cover on. bolted down then tap the output shaft in and all is good. Couple cv's and done.
 
With no cover on and with the differential locked in place, as i push in on the differential, it pushes the output shaft. which i found is pushing on the drivers axle.

Put everything back together. Went a quarter mile and sounded almost like a loud clunk and it started making the noise again. Im i doing something wrong??????

With no diff in, I:
1. Slide the diff onto the output shaft
2. It gives a little resistance(lock ring?) as I push it on and line up the planet gears. But it snaps into place.
3. Make sure the magnetic looking washer and circle slide bearing thing are on the end of the diff.
4. Slide the diff cover on. Make sure the end of the diff sits in the needle bearing.
5. Align the cover up and finger screw in the 4 bolts(aligning the power steering bracket)
6. I have to push the cover a 1/4in against the case so its flush and tighten the 4 bolts in a cross pattern.
 
Are you going back and seating the output shaft into the diff? If you just push it in.. usually it'll not click in properly.
 
Yes I can see the clip on the output shaft once the diff is fully inserted.

I pulled the parking paw out and found this:

IMG_20180704_203937_zpseoc2ppyt.jpg
 


Is that the bearing that sits behind the pawl? Looks taller than I remember, I thought there was just one thin bearing back there that could easily pull forward and end up not allowing the cover to close. But you'd know it if that happens because it wouldn't want to go together...usually results in broken cover when trying to force it
 
BillBoost37 said:
Is that the bearing that sits behind the pawl? Looks taller than I remember, I thought there was just one thin bearing back there that could easily pull forward and end up not allowing the cover to close. But you'd know it if that happens because it wouldn't want to go together...usually results in broken cover when trying to force it
Click to expand...

Yes, parking gear. It sort of sits in it. Im assuming it fell the first time i had it apart.
I was able to find a new one locally. Installed everything again and went to put the cover on but it still wouldnt sit flush. So long story short, i gave the output shaft a nice tap and the cover then fit! But taking it for a ride, it still makes a whole lotta noise.

The diff in there now is my original but it has a few teeth that were nicked that i took the edge off with a file. It makes alot of noise just spinning the tire with my hand. I just pulled the VSS out and it have a tooth on it and very fine shavings. Last time I had the ring gear apart, it looked fine, shiny spot or too but no damage. Im not sure what to do at this point.
 
A few chipped gear teeth are not going to make noise, provided you removed/cleaned all the debris from the gears. If more debris ends up in the gear teeth, it is a domino effect, and that can make a horrible noise. But if the gears are clean and no more debris ends up in them, and you rounded the sharp edges nicely, should be no noise (this is how I had to repair my differential). Was this component HOSPITAL clean when you assembled it?
 


I did go through the gears on the differential with a file and then sprayed it down with parts cleaner. I also went through each ring gear tooth with a flat head screw driver. Most of the debris ended up on the inside side/lip of the ring gear. In which I made sure i got all out.

Is it possible that when i jack it up, tipping all/most of the fluid towards the drivers side, that theres debris flowing that way too that I end up missing?
 
Definately. Also any debris that happened before you found it would get washed into the pan. The filter will keep it from being picked up, but it'll be either in the filter or pan.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Definately. Also any debris that happened before you found it would get washed into the pan. The filter will keep it from being picked up, but it'll be either in the filter or pan.
Click to expand...

Update:

I ended up dropping the pan & draining out all of the fluid. Inside of the filter was clean but the magnet on the bottom of the pan was mostly full of very fine shavings.

Ended up finding a local place here that basically parts out motors & transmissions. So for $45 I picked up an entire 34 tooth HD final drive assembly(diff,output shaft, ring gear, parking gear, etc). The guy there said a lot of people break our differentials spinning in the snow lol. And they actually have an online store.

Installing it, i did have to give the output shaft a tap inward to be able to put the differential cover and have it sit flush. This still does not make sense to me why.
But I used assembly grease on everything, and after 100 miles now, everything seems to be alright.

~$200 to fix a 39 cent roll pin :th_eyesrolling:

Thank you to BillBoost and everyone for the help !
 
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