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Dave and Busters meet, Providence RI --Jan 15th-- 1PM



I was implying that we'd take 3rd and 4th place because they'd take 1st and 2nd. Also the daytona will not lose.
 
Yeah I remembered seeing those videos before Nick. Whenever we're both free and once the weather/roads clear up a bit we can run for fun. I'm down with that.

You know I'm always down. I got some new AC Delco plug wires too so the Regal is all set to go. I just never match up well against G8s in the Regal because of the gearing advantage they have. I'll just have to get a good tire and go from a dig :)

When I first put it on I'd get about 2* of KR.....but at that point a tune would have easily delt with that.
Also was your buddies G8 there the night you raced Jay in the goat swap race? If so, that's the G8 I'm refering to, mark raced that and he was beat by about 2 lengths.
:cool:

It's been my observation that when the conditions are right the after blower temps are higher when the inlet temps are lower. This could be why you're knocking more now that it's been so cold out. Good news is that a tune will cure all that ails your car.

Also yeah thats the same g8. I tuned that car so it wasn't a handheld tune.

Here's that same g8 in current form with the long tubes against a brand new M3.


He had roughly 100 videos on his channel but he closed it down... He said he was fed up with the internet lol. I coulda posted that race with Mark's T/a but its gone forever :(
 
After blower temps get HIGHER when inlet temps get lower? At first I thought you were mindfu*king me, but is it because of heat going to less heat? Between the engine and the rotors is that why outlet temps stay the same or get warmer? I notice that I get more IAT heat soak in winter then the summer. I assume it's because the engines heat is expanding much quicker?
 
It's because at a certain point you're well passed the efficiency range of the blower in terms of how much boost heats the air. Once you start climbing to higher and higher boost levels, the deltas overcome the difference in ambient temps. Also the combustion temps and cylinder pressures go up. In addition to all of that, there's also a higher load on the engine to spin the blower AND it's making more power.

Lots of **** to consider, lol
 
So you're saying I could already be at, or beyond my peak in power with the stock blower in this weather? I do recall seeing the charts you and.others posted in your tvs thread. I'll have to re-read it to get a better understanding.
 


The heat generated by the m90 is directly related to how much boost you're running. How fast the blower is spinning is much less important. Above a certain boost level, outlet temps rise exponentially. Therefore when it's colder and boost levels rise, the amount of ambient temperature drop could easily be surpassed by the temperature gain due to high boost levels.

This is why people should be more concerned with what their boost level is rather than what size pulley they're running.
 
I recall reading about that. What's the recommended amount of boost for a gen 3, 10psi? I assume gen 5' s have a higher max rec. Psi?
 
I recall reading about that. What's the recommended amount of boost for a gen 3, 10psi? I assume gen 5' s have a higher max rec. Psi?

With either blower a peak of 11psi is too much if you're not intecooled or running race gas/e85. You really would see a better all around performance from a pulley that gets you in the 9psi range with a peak of 10psi.
The GenV only gets you to that boost level on a bigger pulley. The outlet temps at any given boost level are pretty close GenV vs GenIII.

You could have a car that runs 11-12 psi on a setup like yours... as long as it's tuned for. It'd just run better on lower boost with more timing and a leaner AFR. And like I said before there's also combustion temps, cylinder pressures and engine loads to consider... among a lot other stuff.

Bottom line here is whichever method you choose it needs to be tuned accordingly.
 
I figured as much. However if one were to spray meth before the blower that could help out a great deal. I plan on making a thread about meth and the difference on inlet and outlet temps with various sized pullies come springtime, but anywho I hear what you're saying.
 


Meth does a lot for cooling **** down... but then the debate becomes do you spray before or after the blower.

I would think after the blower since Meth eats away the teflon coating on the supercharger rotors. I've seen that happen to almost everyone that has run meth on the other gp forum
 
i would think after the blower as well because dont these superchargers get really hot and heat up the air anyways?
 
I've been looking into rotor coatings, and $200 is not a bad deal considering it can resist meth/fuel/etc., but for that much money it could be better spent toward other things. A couple of my lightning buddies have said that people who spray meth run into the same problem for their trucks but don't really notice much of a difference in performance. I've also seen S/C's without coating on them run fine. Will it operate better with the coating? Yes, but imo the gains from meth will far exceed the "loss" of gains from no blower coating imo.
 
I feel like there would be a lot of heat transfer from the rotors to the meth when you spray pre blower. Where as if you spray in the LIM, more of the heat transfer is from the air where you need/want it.

Also a blower without rotor coating is going to be at a big loss in terms of volumetric efficiency... especially as boost goes up.
 
To be honest I'm kind of stuck in my ways of spraying pre blower, however since I'll be porting a spare LIM for the car I'll at least look more into figuring out a way to spray it post blower. Maybe do a duel setup on the sides closer to the firewall and dogbones. Most likely drill and tap holes for the nozzles, a spacer just for that would be not worth it IMO.

I'm actually getting excited on the idea of doing a LIM meth setup the more I'm thinking about it. Again I'll have to do research on if the meth will have enough "space" before the combustion chambers to atomize and not puddle in the LIM. Devilsown seems to boast about their nozzles being able to do so.
 


It's too bad I didn't join this forum until today, otherwise I would have been there! If you guys are going to do another local meet up let me know and I'll swing through. Dave and Buster's is literally 10 minutes away from me!
 
FWIW Nick, Gen V and III don't have the same outlet temps at the same PSI. That LIM with temp sensor that is currently on your car proved that out. Mostly because the same PSI was achieved with larger pullies.

Ed, there's a lot of why you get KR when it's warm and cold info out there. You should do a ton of reading/research on it. One thing you'll find is most guys with a reasonable tune don't see the 1-2 degrees in teh cold that they may in the hot summer. Your car like mine has many factors that need to be considered. Like you said your vacuum doesn't appear to be where it should be which may be fueling. Say you are lean when it's colder out.the air is denser providing more oxygen to burn. Is this pushing you into a predetonation condition with a weak fuel pump? It might. Keep in mind that under boost, you don't have a vacuum leak, you'd then have a boost leak.

One of the biggest things that takes a while to learn. Boost is the measurement of excess pressure sitting in your LIM, not what the engine is processing.
 
It was a good time...but too cold out. Next time out we'll schedule it closer to this area and probably get another 5-10 guys too.

reklessracing use to do a HUGE meet every year, first weekend in May. Don't if they are doing it again this year since last year was kind of dead in the water.

Bill I could get the Maxima guys to do a June meet at Red Robin again LOL
 
I hated missing out, but I couldn't get off work being the only Night Auditor again. School was just starting too...sorry I missed out guys. I think something like this in May/June would be awesome. I'll have Grand prix done in its final stages.
 
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