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I'd be willing to bet you can get the rest of that KR out with a good tune session. Then you won't have to worry about popping it.
 
Did u get the crank gear machined to the correct chafer? like below?
Before machining Double on the left stock on right
2011-02-23_13-17-29_460.jpg

After Machinging Stock on left double on right
2011-02-24_15-43-39_160.jpg
 
MAF tables are off with the ported TB...stock one it probably wouldn't have much knock if any.

Also...are you running 91+ octane...or just 87?
 
when running 87 knock at wot is 7-8 with 2-3 at part throttle when shifting ,when i put in 93 awhile back it was around 3-4 at wot. Doesnt look like the headers did anything for reducing knock right now.
 
If it is lowering with octane...then it's REAL knock.

That's why I asked.

Have you replaced your actual motor mounts?
 


well dealership and the shop that did my headers said the mounts looked fine but i did buy some solid lowers as replacements. So i'll see if i can the solid ones in just need to pound away at the firewall for more clearance
 
N/A car knocking with loads of octane and headers sounds like my car.

I swapped heads, ran an M90 and KR free on 16*.
 
So it could be my stock heads causing the knock?

Anyways i was able to use ls4 fans as a cheap alternative as slim cooling fans. Only 3 inches deep so the headers wont rub against anything and i can easily swap in a larger rad. I can get a 7/8 radiator off the dohc monte's for $70-80 or should i go for a 1 1/4 radiator from autozone $115?

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With all that room in front you could probably rock the motor forward to get more room in the back for the rear mani.
Did you bash the firewall with the BFH yet?
 


Rico said:
With all that room in front you could probably rock the motor forward to get more room in the back for the rear mani.
Did you bash the firewall with the BFH yet?
Click to expand...

just went at it with a prybar. There no vibration when the car is on and in park. And only a little in reverse because the bent dipstick is touching the brake booster. If i could get the motore to stay like it is in park while in drive there would be no problem. I have zzp poly rad mounts and solid motor/tranny mounts in there now wondering if i should switch poly's lowers
 
The shorter dog bones would probably be perfect.
Can't beat it for $28 from ZZP.

The solid rubber lower mounts should be fine. No?
 
Poly lowers have NO give at all.

They are brutal.

But man, that motor or transmission doesn't move...at ALL.
 


problem with the shorter dogbones is that supercharger bracket was made for the stock dogbone so right side would be more forward the left. Does anybody think poly dogbone bushings would help? or should i just get a poly motor mount and keep the trans solid rubber?
 
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