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Crappy day.... how to break the seal on LIM gasket?

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Sorry, I wasn't saying you would have to do the head gaskets, I was stating that I personally have done something similar and in my case I was scoping out a cylinder with a video scope and lost the attachment.
 
Almost done. just gotta get the uim and alternator/tensioner back on. How long should I allow for the rtv to dry before firing it up? Don't have to be to work for another 11 hours. RTVs been sealed up for 2 hours
 


also do a oil and filter change before you start it up. then if you see any thing but new clean oil on the dip stick after it runs for a few minutes, change the oil and filter one more time.
 
Ok everthing is back together and checks out. No leaks. However since I was in a rush to get it all back together and catch a nap, I managed to break the 7mm head of the coolant bleeder screw. I grabbed a 10mm for the larger head underneath and finished bleeding it. Do I need to replace thr screw or am I good? Doesn't appear to be leaking.
 
May I compliment you on your choice of footwear, it was my choice most of the time as well.

If it's not leaking.. leave it be. Burp through the rad cap opening instead. You'll be fine.
 


BillBoost37 said:
May I compliment you on your choice of footwear, it was my choice most of the time as well.

If it's not leaking.. leave it be. Burp through the rad cap opening instead. You'll be fine.
Click to expand...

I grabbed another one anyways. 8 bucks on rock auto and instead of the 7mm bleeder valve it has a small screw in it that can be loosened and tightened with a flat head. If I break the head off this one I've got issues.
 
JESUS ****ING CHRIST. I knew I should've taken my time with it. I smelled coolant burning so I looked up the installation video. I installed the block rail seals backwards. The rubber/silicone surface is facing outwards instead of inside the block/LIM. What are the chances of salvaging them, will I need another gasket set?
 
It runs fine but now I'm suspicious of coolant in the oil. It feels rather slick and after driving it it has a sweet smell to it. It could just be the fresh oil in it. If I let it sit for 20-30 mins then it smells like regular oil with blowby in it. I'll change the oil in the morning again to make sure, I picked up 10 quarts of supertech and a cheap filter.

You're saying the way those seals are facing has no bearing on how well the LIM seals? I understand the block rail seals don't seal coolant ports, I just figured it could be contributing to the problem and wouldn't seal the LIM properly against the rails.
 
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Can someone confirm the block rail seals themselves aren't in issue being installed backwards. I can see Scotty's view that it doesn't affect the coolant ports due to location, however I could use the piece of mind.
 
The other thing that makes me worry is I've added more coolant to the engine since first firing her up. I keep filling it to the top as she was running and eventually it stopped gulping up coolant. I drove it to pick up the oil and when I came back over half of my coolant reservoir had emptied back into the radiator. When I squeeze the upper hose I can hear it sloshing back into the overflow tank.
 
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