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Crappy day.... how to break the seal on LIM gasket?

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i think your rad cap maybe bad, or not on right, aka hooked on both sides. the tank will rise and drop, but if you squeeze the upper hose and coolant blows into the res tank, the caps not tight or shot for sure.

the side rubber side gasket has nothing to do with coolant, its just sealing air from getting inside to outside.

check your oil. if the dip stick has any milky looking crap on it, change it asap.

if you just see clean new oil on the stick the oil is fine.
 


Yeah the oil is clean. No bubbles or milky residue. I even did the blot test on a business card and it absorbed into the card without leaving any sticky residue behind. I'm changing the oil one more time to set my mind at ease.

I hate doing big jobs like this, I find myself continually analyzing every bit of info possible afterwards thinking something went wrong.

I've done of few of those jobs where everything is hooked back up and you find an extra nut or two. Not a good feeling.
 
If you put it back together and you have a couple extra nuts and bolts that means you are legit, you found a way to put it back together with less than what came from the factory, efficiency! haha.
 


The wear pattern on my tensioner pulley seems uneven. Instead of the wear being the width of the belt I've got racing stripes along the circumference of the pulley.... If cleaning doesn't fix it there's a good chance the duralast tensioner I put on years back isn't worth a crap....

It spins freely however I'll have to check alignment.
 
Wonderful. Sounds like the squeal is coming from the water pump underneath and to the front of the idler. That would explain the noise and loss of coolant
 
Looks I'll be replacing the front cover on the water pump. I checked the belt system out and I had a few small drops of some kind of fluid on the harmonic balancer. It sits directly under the water pump pulley.
 


that sounds like a water pump leak. it leaks out the weep hole under the pulley in its snout.

car off, grab the w/p pulley with both hands, push one, pull the other, then back and fourth, if you feel play the w/p is shot.
 
water pump aint all that bad. sucky part is you need to take the power steering pump off and the lower idler for the sc belt, t55 torx or a 15 mm on some. its got normal threads, just take the pulley off and the long w/p bolt comes out.

same deal with the p/s pump, its blocking a long bolt to the pump.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
water pump aint all that bad. sucky part is you need to take the power steering pump off and the lower idler for the sc belt, t55 torx or a 15 mm on some. its got normal threads, just take the pulley off and the long w/p bolt comes out.

same deal with the p/s pump, its blocking a long bolt to the pump.
Click to expand...

Looking at this one all I gotta do is remove the pulley and the small bolts holding the front cover on.
 


and the p/s pump will have to come off. i keep forgetting your n/a no lower idler.

no way around the p/s pump tho. its coming off.

loosen up the 4 w/p pulley bolts, then take the belt off. makes life easy for them
 
I may just hold off the job until I get my steering rack replaced in that case. Its leaking internally and the unequal pressure is making the steering when pull slightly left. If I have to unhook the PS pump from the hoses ill need to bleed it anyways.
 
Good news is the overflow tank has returned to the full line and the coolant level hasn't changed since the last top off yesterday, so the accident involving the elbow and gasket replacement wasn't in vain.
 
Waterpump is bad I botched the job. Just started the the car via remote start and as I was approaching it I got a whiff of an overwhelmingly sweet odor. Seemed to be coming from the passenger side but the rear of the engine is also possible. Ill place cardboard under both areas tonight and find out which it is. The smell isn't present while driving so I'm hoping its the water pump. Crossing my fingers.
 
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