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crankshaft



"The sensor in the Grand Prix is a 3-inch cylindrical sensor located on the side of the engine facing the firewall, directly under the exhaust manifold. It is inserted into the block and held in with a 10-mm bolt. It is a 3-wire sensor with one purple, one light green and one light blue with a black stripe wire."
 
It's right behind the harmonic balancer and the plastic shield
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Shield off
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The 2 13mm bolts should be retorqued to 13 ft lbs.
 
I apologize if I put in the wrong spot.
I had and SES and was told that it wad the crankshaft position sensor.
If it was faulty, would I cause my RPM needle to stop working while the vehicle is running??
I have pictures, but I don't know how to upload them from the phone, yet.
 
Yes...the tach tends to bounce and not operate.

Replace it...clear the code...then get back to us ;)
 


Jack up the passenger side and remove the tire (5 x 19mm)
Remove plastic splash shield keeping you from seeing the balancer (trim popper tool)
Using a balancer puller and 3 x M6 x 1.00 x 75mm bolts pull the balancer
Disconnect the wiring to the sensor
Remove 2 x 13mm bolts, wiggle sensor off

Install the reverse using 13 ft lbs of torque for the sensor bolts, remember to push and turn the balancer to get it engaged on the key before you bolt it up.

With air tools in my garage it's a 15 minute job.
 


Looks just like a Y to have bolts going into the three holes of the balancer. You can typically "borrow" one from most parts stores as a loaner tool. Biggest thing is to ensure it's got the three M6 x 1.00 x 75mm or so bolts. Because most kits don't have those bolts.
 
Wait, so the balancer is only 'engaged' in there??? So I should be able to pull it out ??(no pun intented).
 
The balancer is part of the crank pulley. It's all one piece. Remove the crank pulley/balancer assembly and it will look like the pic.
 


Yes. Not a suggestion, just the technique.

Remove the inspection cover from the transmission. Little black plastic cover on the bottom. Here you see the flywheel. Get a pair of vicegrips and clamp them onto the flywheel good and tight (don't clamp the teeth of the flywheel). Now, go back to the crank bolt. If you have access to a GOOD air impact then have at it. If not, then a cheater/breaker bar is your friend. Get the correct size socket on there and turn it until you feel the motor lock. This is the vicegrips holding the motor from spinning backwards. Then just give it hell until it pops loose. That bolts has around 110ft/lbs on it and some orange loctite from factory so it can be a b**ch. DO NOT heat the bolt w/ a torch or you risk the front crank seal.

One note- When reinstalling the balancer be 100% sure you line the slot on the inside of the balancer up w/ the key in the crankshaft or you are going to have big problems. The balancer should push on if you wiggle it a bit, then drive it the rest of the way on w/ the bolt. The bolt is supposedly not reuseable per GM, but you can reuse it if you like. I did on 2 of my cars (both 3800's) and no issues. Just be sure to get the torque correct once its back on again. The specs are around here somewhere. Do a search and it should come up.

Be sure to remove the vicegrips once the bolt is tightend up again.
 
Is this what you mean? Ive never taken this off anything I need to be on the look out for when I give this a go? What is the "Little black plastic cover on the bottom"?

DSC02684.jpg
 
Yep. See where the oil pan on the engine meets the transmission? That black plastic cover with the 2 bolts in it (should be 10mm IIRC). Remove that and you will be able to see the bottom of the flywheel.
 
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