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Cone Intakes & Parking The GP During Winter?

2

2007GrandPrixGT

New member
Firstly! I bought a good quaility cone filters for the gp gt, universal fit but its exposed without a heat shield, i have that part covered, but it doesnt say if its all weather, i dont plan on getting wet but its stupid to think ill never drive in the rain at some point? input? HELP?

Second, other then idoling the car here and there to keep the motor freash, what things do i need to consider when parking the car for the winter, it will be in the garage but the garage is not heated. also in canada it gets really cold eh! input? HELP? hahaha cheers forum!

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Its all weather, and you dont need a heat shield, but its your choice.
The stock intake box has holes in it and get can wet too and nothing harms it, and only if your puddle jumpung will water ever splash up and hit the upper parts of the motor.

When storing the car, its really best not to just start it every few weeks for whatever you had planned on doing.

Just fill it full of fuel, put it of jack stands or swap the rims to a junk set with tires and spray some wd-40 in the cylinders and put the plugs back in.
 
You'll be fine with that filter. You're storing it in a garage so that's better than a lot of cars get stored. Last winter I had my car parked outside of work and the wind was hitting the front of the car and snow went up into the engine bay and completely covered the filter. I dug out what i could and let the engine warm up and melt most of the rest. The filter is rusty now but still works fine.
 
IMHO the worst thing you can do to an older car is not run it for long periods.
Change the oil right before storing the car.
If you insist on not running it all winter make sure you pull the plugs in the spring before first startup.
Leave the plugs out and crank the engine for about 10 seconds to get oil backup to the cam and rockers.
 
Rico said:
IMHO the worst thing you can do to an older car is not run it for long periods.
Change the oil right before storing the car.
If you insist on not running it all winter make sure you pull the plugs in the spring before first startup.
Leave the plugs out and crank the engine for about 10 seconds to get oil backup to the cam and rockers.
Click to expand...

What happens every time you change the oil?
 


matt5112 said:
What happens every time you change the oil?
Click to expand...

I don't know about anyone else but I don't let my car sit for 6 months every time I change the oil.
Plenty of oil remains up around the cam bearings when the car is shut off.
Draining the oil does not remove this film of oil.
Let the car sit for 6 months and the film ends up mostly in the oil pan.
 
the biggest problem with letting a car sit is getting water in the oil... so changing it AFTER you take it out of storeage is the best plan instead of trying to do it before.. so it can sit around and let new oil get contaminated, is really dumb.
 
Used oil has metal ions, polar hydrocarbons and many other corrosion exhibiting compounds that will begin to eat the bearings if let sit for a long period of time.

Not so dumb to change the oil before you put the car up. :th_thumb-up:

I've done some research for you dark....

Reference: http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/tp102-c3.pdf

Other compounds found in used mineral-based crankcase oil as a result of oil additives include barium, phosphorus, zinc, and some chlorine and bromine compounds (Vermont Agency of Natural Resources 1994). Additional organic and inorganic compounds found in used mineral-based crankcase oil are sulfur, aluminum, arsenic, calcium, chromium, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese, potassium, silicon, sodium, tin, toluene, benzene, xylene, ethylbenzene, and nitrogen, although most organic compounds are destroyed during combustion of used mineral-based crankcase oil as fuel (Canadian Environmental Protection Agency 1994; Vermont Agency of Natural Resources 1994).

I'm sure someone has done and in depth study of the deterioration of an engine left sitting with used oil in it.
 


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