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Car cut off while driving, possibly cause?? I'm worried now

Haulero

Haulero

New member
Ok, I was on my way back home from work just a couple of hours ago, when all of the sudden car shut off! I was going to take the interstate, I was on the ramp. I had to pull over but you know when the car is shut off is hard to steer, as soon as I parked I tried to crank it back up and it did with no problems at all. This is the first time something like this happened, and I've been driving this car for more than 5 years, now I'm really worried about driving it because if it cuts off at high speed I'm gonna be in trouble. I drove it for 20 minutes and didn't give me any more trouble, What do you guys think? I know it could be a lot of things but since ya'll drive a pontiac as well, ya'll may know a common problem. My car is a 1997 gt, 245k Thank you
 


Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
I wanna say crank sensor. I'd shotgun one in there if it was me.
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Thank you for your reply. Never heard of crank sensor before, but I guess I'll look it up and see what it looks like and where is located at :).... What this car have done in the past, in the morning when I crank it up, it jerks, like if it wants to cut off and if I start driving like that it drive really rough. But the problem goes away when I shut it off and crank it back up.... this doesn't happen often, may be one time every 4 months
 


With a bad crank sensor, often you will not get a code. Crank sensors are very common in our cars to the point that I agree with FFDP and suggest shotgunning one on there. Sensor is about $25-$35 and it's fairly easy to swap out.
 
I suggest it was the MAF Sensor...my 2000 GT did the same thing while on the road. The rpm's would flutter, then engine would cut off shortly after. It shouldnt be the Crank Sensor. It is a Crank Sensor IF the rpm's go flat, and at the same time the Track Control Light comes on, but motor stays running. I really think it is your MAF.
 
PK2000GT said:
I suggest it was the MAF Sensor...my 2000 GT did the same thing while on the road. The rpm's would flutter, then engine would cut off shortly after. It shouldnt be the Crank Sensor. It is a Crank Sensor IF the rpm's go flat, and at the same time the Track Control Light comes on, but motor stays running. I really think it is your MAF.
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Completely untrue statement. Crank sensor reads the rotation of the engine without it the engine doesn't run. Period.

Bad crank causes no starts, misfires, and just random stalling.

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Classic CPS. Its located behind the harmonic balancer. Pull the tire off, splash shield, balancer, pull the electrical clip, then another splash shield, then just the 2 bolts holding the sensor on. Pretty straight forward.

rperry435 said:
Completely untrue statement. Crank sensor reads the rotation of the engine without it the engine doesn't run. Period.

Bad crank causes no starts, misfires, and just random stalling.

Sent using my Galaxy SIII on Tapatalk 2
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Actually I believe when my CPS was going out the car would run but I would loose the tach and TCS.
 
No tach I see.. Because the Crank Sensor watches the Crank.. But tcs doesn't make much sense. I believe it but I definitely wouldn't put a stalling issue on a maf personally. Maybe a map sensor because I've replaced several of those over the years that caused stalling issues especially when coming to a stop.

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Ditto on the MAF sensor as well. Mine was doing all sorts of funky things until I got the sensor cleaned.

EDIT: I lost my Tach and TC a while back as well but no stall, so I guess my crank sensor is going as well. Get at both I'd say.
 
rperry435 said:
Completely untrue statement. Crank sensor reads the rotation of the engine without it the engine doesn't run. Period.

Bad crank causes no starts, misfires, and just random stalling.

Sent using my Galaxy SIII on Tapatalk 2
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I say this is the problem becuase I had to experience this problem personally and know exactly what happend. Did you have the same or are you just going of knowledge of how its ACTUALLY supposed to happen???

I just gave my 2 cents worth and advised him to start at this location. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure with my PERSONAL experience that this is the issue location.
 
rperry435 said:
Maybe a map sensor because I've replaced several of those over the years that caused stalling issues especially when coming to a stop.

Sent using my Galaxy SIII on Tapatalk 2
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Also, this stalling is happening during normall driving while in motion and at idle. It can happen at any moment if this problem is happening all the time.
 
but all this bickering aside, its most likely gonna come down to your problem being the Crank Sensor or the MAF Sensor. Good Luck.
 
Ok my friends, thank you all for trying to figure it out what is wrong with my babe, I went to autozone after I got off from work (I drove my car this morning with no problems, I drove it back home no problems)
The first code is P0300, Definition: Cylinder misfire detected-random cylinders. Possible cause: Ignition system fault-spark, ignition, wires, coil. Vacuum leak, injector fault, high or low fuel pressure.
Code P1406: valve pintle position circuit. Possible cause: Failed EGR valve, open or short circuit condition.
Code P0141: heated oxygen sensor bank 1, sensor 2: possible cause: Faulty HO2s12, poor connection at oxygen sensor, check circuit-fuse.

What is a EGR valve?? Where is the oxygen sensor bank 1, sensor 2??
 


EGR valve is exhaust gas recirculator. Pull your egr valve and clean it. The o2 sensor is the one after the catalytic converter.
 
PK, rperry is speaking from years of wrenching on these cars. A good amount of experience, not a single instance. :th_winking:

The O2 is not causing the stalling
Check the maf first, it's a free text. Simply unplug it and expect the car might start hard or idle funny for a bit. If the issue continues with the maf unplugged, it's a maf.

From experience as well.... I can tell you it's 80% or more the crank sensor.
 
After reading my comments I can see where I may have overkilled my wording, but didnt mean to point fingers. A bad day at work, can result in negative emotions elsewhere. I can also understand that there are multiple reasons why a Crank Sensor can go bad. I assume I only experienced one of the issues with it. I still think its the MAF sensor. I do remember when mine was bad that there was no code for it. It was simply luck that I found it was bad. The Crank Sensor never set off any code either.
 
Can any of you have pictures or something, to show me where the maf sensor and crack sensor is? I have never messed with this things. My tune up only includes, sparkplugs and wires, engine air filter, gas filter, pvc valve and little things like that. I have never replaced a maf or crank sensor, or a oxygen sensor. So more than likely they are going to be faulty because I've been driving this car for more than 5 years and never checked those things. (and I don't know about previous owner, he probably didn't change any of this either)
 
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