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Camshaft Install

9

99coupegtp

New member
So my engine spun a rod bearing and since I'm rebuilding it I figure now would be a great time to install a mild camshaft.

I'm looking at the VS and the S1X.

What chain, lifters, and springs do you guys recommend?

I'm trying to keep this reliable and I have read that with 105# springs the dampener will wear quickly. So I'm guessing the rollmaster double chain set would be the best bet.
 


It's going to be a different answer everytime I ran 105s / s1x/ new stock chain and dampener/ 42s/3.0/oe-r lifters/ stock rockers etcZero issues


stock lifters are fine too. I just got a good deal on the oe-r
 
That sig is old I recently did a whole new stage 3 build. I had the s1x for a couple years. The dampener looked just fine
 


My setup is close to his ^. S1x, 105s, stock lifters for me, stock chain and dampner. Close to 8k on the install now, no problem. No need for a double chain with only 105s.

I've put about 2k miles on mine in the last 5 weeks. Runs great, sounds even better with the cam, and just keeps pulling.
 
Xp, 105's w/titanium retainers, stock lifters/pushrods/rockers, had a jp dr but tossed it for a new stock chain/dampener when installing engine into my bonne. I also don't rev past 6k, not much power up there anyways with my setup.
 
Why rebuild the motor? why not just get a JY one. if you rebuild, make sure you bring the rods and block to a machine shop and have them check for alignment and make sure the rods are perfectly circular...
 
ADecker said:
Why rebuild the motor? why not just get a JY one. if you rebuild, make sure you bring the rods and block to a machine shop and have them check for alignment and make sure the rods are perfectly circular...
Click to expand...


Which alignment are you talking about? I took the block, rods, and pistons to a machine shop and asked them to check the rods, they told me the cylinder 1 rod is trashed(the one had the spun bearing).
 
Make sure the block is still square. The 3800 wears odd and the rods will become oval over time, if you press a round bearing into an oval rod it will spin again in less than 1000 miles. The crank can also oval overtime. Generally its smarter to just get a junkyard block and drop it in unless your going all out forged, Blueprint, balance etc.

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Wouldn't a junkyard block also have those above mentioned problems? My block only has 138k on it. I will ask the machine shop to make sure it's still square though since you suggest it. Should I buy a new set of L32 rods due that issue too or just have them checked? As far as my crankshaft goes, it was trashed when the rod spun, it took too much off the number 1 journal.
 
Let me help you out here. I spun a rod bearing on my original L67 with 278k miles on the clock. I bought a junkyard motor with 104k on it, re did LIM gaskets, etc...but Less then 1500 miles on that motor it spun a rod bearing on cyl#2. My car then sat for a few months until I decided what to do. I decided i was committed to my car still and having a strong motor motor to work with, so...I took my block with crank, cam, and pistons/connect rods to a machine shop. Meanwhile I ordered all of my gaskets, decided I wanted an XP cam, 110 springs, etc. The machine shop took a month to get my stuff done. They ground my crank, put in new clevite main bearings, machined all the connecting rods, new clevite bearings there too. New cam bearings, and line honed my block. $650 in machine work. everything else I had collected, headers, gaskets, dhp tuner, cam, springs, etc .... I'm $1800 into the rebuild as a whole now. I got the block back, rebuilt it. Cylinder 5 had a misfire from initial startup, swapped coils, plugs, wires, etc. Misfire consistent, took the car down to the stop sign (less than 1mile) oil pressured bottomed, rod started knocking. Towed back to the house, drop pan, spun rod on cyl #5. Machine shop agree'd to warranty their work, so I disassembled johnny 5 again. They've had it 2 weeks, and they are now ordering a different crank because they don't want to grind mine past 30 thousandsths
 
Yes a JY motor would have the same issues; however they happened slowly over time and your not trying to shove a round peg in an oval hole.

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So it won't just pop. I out 60k on a JY motor at 600+ whp.... They last lol trust me.

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99GT2dr said:
Xp, 105's w/titanium retainers, stock lifters/pushrods/rockers, had a jp dr but tossed it for a new stock chain/dampener when installing engine into my bonne. I also don't rev past 6k, not much power up there anyways with my setup.
Click to expand...


Thanks but I think the XP may be a little more aggressive than in looking for. Wanting to keep some gas mileage as the car was a daily driver and will be once its back up and going. I'm assuming though all the parts you listed would still work for a VS or S1X cam.
 
Dunno. The rods wore oval and if you just press in bearings they will spin. Get them checked and make sure they are perfect circle...

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I had an XP lost 1 MPG. Go XP you don't regret it, great power increase, or s1x same thing

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