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Camshaft Install

Your block itself is probably fine, but to have the piece of mind of a new crank, etc.....in my personal less than 1 month old experience the cost isn't worth it. I've found sub 90k mile motors...some with trans for $400 ..and if I was gonna do this again, Id put the cam into a used motor and move forward.
 


Go xp,trust me,your not going to lost many mpg.The few you do lose are worth it for the extra power versus a vs cam.As far as the motor build goes, it can be reliable if done correctly, but your gonna pay for it.Most need to buy a junkyard motor just for the crank .I would recommend the l32 rods on any low compression build.There thicker on the big end and are cracked cap, they don't oval bad like the series 2 rods.
 
goldgp said:
Go xp,trust me,your not going to lost many mpg.The few you do lose are worth it for the extra power versus a vs cam.As far as the motor build goes, it can be reliable if done correctly, but your gonna pay for it.Most need to buy a junkyard motor just for the crank .I would recommend the l32 rods on any low compression build.There thicker on the big end and are cracked cap, they don't oval bad like the series 2 rods.
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I've already bought a crank from rockauto. It's a remanufactured crank so it's been ground down a little on the journals and came with new bearings. As far as rods go, you're saying I should even bother reusing mine due to the fact that they become oval, I should buy new L32 rods? For the cam, do you recommend the XP over the S1X? I'm leaning heavily towards the S1X.
 
Both are basically the same iirc. S1X is a great cam. You just need them checked to make sure they are perfect circles and the bearings will fit properly because If not its gonna get ugly. Or save the coin and get a JY motor.

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My issue with a JY engine is that I want to replace my whole drivetrain so that its like new. I don't want to worry about a JY engine breaking on me just like my engine has. I'd rather rebuild it so it's as reliable as my transmission will be.

Back to the rods though, this may seem dumb, will the L32 rods work on a series II crankshaft? I think rockauto had different part numbers for the Series II and III cranks which is why I ask
 


99coupegtp said:
My issue with a JY engine is that I want to replace my whole drivetrain so that its like new. I don't want to worry about a JY engine breaking on me just like my engine has. I'd rather rebuild it so it's as reliable as my transmission will be.

Back to the rods though, this may seem dumb, will the L32 rods work on a series II crankshaft? I think rockauto had different part numbers for the Series II and III cranks which is why I ask
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Nothing you said here is a bad idea. But if you read through enough threads on this forum, you will see that people prefer jy motors to rebuilds by a pretty good margin. Every reason decker has put out is valid and a concern, but if you trust your parts and your machine shop I would go with your gut. Most people just don't want to worry about the internals that much, so they just go jy motor, new gaskets and run it til it blows. Good luck to you either way.
 
Oh and s1x for the win. Never been in a vs car, but I've ridden in an Xp cammed car and I prefer my s1x. Not a huge difference and both pull good, but I like the s1x.
 
That was me lol. My motor took 24 psi and was putting out 600+ easy. Little slut took it like it was its made for it. Then I sold it lol

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My XP was a great turbo cam and it was a great blower cam when I was SC. Though the S1X sounds better I think.

Then I had to go get a cobalt and now idk how the **** the cam timing even works hahaha
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IF your looking for a mild cam with good gas mileage and cheap to run go vs. The vs tech makes more power up until 6k+. In order to get the most out of the xp/s1x you will need alot more than just springs. aka 130#+, dbl roller(machined), mod retainers, valve seals, machined oil pump cover. Now everyone get this straight, no you do not NEED all this for those cams but you will get the most out of the cam and be able to rev it higher without floating valves. Reason i didnt go xp or s1x is because vs is cheaper and makes just as much without reving it to the moon.

As for the motor. Dont waste anymore money on rebuilding this thing. Return the crankshaft, and go buy L67/L32 motor with low miles.
 
I know where a couple L67s are but again, I'd rather rebuild that way the engine will be very reliable. I don't want to throw away $200-300 on an engine that I don't know runs or will have to change in a year or whenever. I'd also like to keep my original block.
 
The problem with that logic is you better start shelling out cash for machine work... Get that block check twice over for alignment and tolerances

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Ginseng said:
IF your looking for a mild cam with good gas mileage and cheap to run go vs. The vs tech makes more power up until 6k+. In order to get the most out of the xp/s1x you will need alot more than just springs. aka 130#+, dbl roller(machined), mod retainers, valve seals, machined oil pump cover. Now everyone get this straight, no you do not NEED all this for those cams but you will get the most out of the cam and be able to rev it higher without floating valves. Reason i didnt go xp or s1x is because vs is cheaper and makes just as much without reving it to the moon.
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Ginseng said:
As for the motor. Dont waste anymore money on rebuilding this thing. Return the crankshaft, and go buy L67/L32 motor with low miles.
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Sorry but I do not agree with that statement "to get the most out of the s1x/xp" you need those parts.
VS cam is a time waster cam for those who think a stage 1 cam is going to self destruct their cars and can't be daily driven

In reality , you get a stronger pulling car that runs smooth as butter above idle
 
Sorry gin, I had a xp build identical to a vs build and walked him. S1x and xp do not need to be revved that high

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ADecker said:
The problem with that logic is you better start shelling out cash for machine work... Get that block check twice over for alignment and tolerances

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The machine shop I took then engine to is the same one we have used for multiple engines and have never had troubles with them. I've had other people recommend them to me as well. I trust their work. I'm ready to drop a decent amount of money to make my car like new.
 
ADecker said:
Sorry gin, I had a xp build identical to a vs build and walked him. S1x and xp do not need to be revved that high

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Probly reasons other than the cam.

RickyBobby03 said:
Sorry but I do not agree with that statement "to get the most out of the s1x/xp" you need those parts.
VS cam is a time waster cam for those who think a stage 1 cam is going to self destruct their cars and can't be daily driven

In reality , you get a stronger pulling car that runs smooth as butter above idle
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That just makes no sense......
 
99coupegtp said:
The machine shop I took then engine to is the same one we have used for multiple engines and have never had troubles with them. I've had other people recommend them to me as well. I trust their work. I'm ready to drop a decent amount of money to make my car like new.
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IMHO stupid but you do you.

Could have been but I saw scans of that car and it was running fine. I think the VS is just too small to be worth the time. Go big or go home...not that xp is big by any stretch of the imagination lol

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ADecker said:
IMHO stupid but you do you.

Could have been but I saw scans of that car and it was running fine. I think the VS is just too small to be worth the time. Go big or go home...not that xp is big by any stretch of the imagination lol

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I did to much research on this subject, and i ran across a thread of a guy that took all 3 cams on the dyno and numbers dont lie, he even went to the point of heads vs no heads. CAnt remember where i found the thread though.

Not to mention i ran a 13.5 with only a vs cam and a slipping trans. Thats alot better than what most guys run on other cams. I think you will be happy either way.
 
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