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Broken vacuum line

chevyy1212

chevyy1212

New member
Thought someone drilled a hole in my tire... Nope its this........... Thats right under the S/C snout. If ya look at it the rubber gromet going into the LIM well has held on for as long as it could. What is "this" particular part tho that is the game. The winner gets a lame smiley face of my picking.



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Re: Oooookkkkk. So lets play what is this and where can I get one.

get the whole vacuum line kit from the dealer and replace the entire line. its relatively cheap.
 
Re: Oooookkkkk. So lets play what is this and where can I get one.

OOOH! OOOH! Vacuum T!!!

What do I win, lol....

But yea, just get the whole line like Bio says
 
Re: Oooookkkkk. So lets play what is this and where can I get one.

I spent like $8 at Advanced Auto..mines pretty ghetto rigged but it works exactly the same. I just bought little T connectors, some black end cap things (wtf are they called..whatever) then the line was like $1.80. Sounds cheap but ****, I'm not complaining lol.



*The line on the other side is off on this picture*



Ghetto, but works
 
It just needs to seal up... I looked it up last week for another thread on this... ^ I think his but not 100% and it was like $50 for the whole harness... or you can ghetto fabulous it for under $10... your call.
 


Damn thats not cheap. It comes with a bunch o crap it sounds like tho. I knew it was a vac lineo f some kind I was just hoping for the one part oh well thanks guys now to rig it till I get money
 
If your just needing to drive the car you could wrap that t in electrical tape and it'll hold long enough to go to the store and get a new one.
 
I did basically what GTLGDP did and it works great and cost almost nothing. I just got that white plastic tee he used in his photos along with two different ID size fuel hoses. The black plastic tubing on your car will fit right into some black fuel line hose (1/8 inch I think but don't quote me). Then use a piece of larger ID fuel hose for the part of the tee going to the lim. It also helps if you heat up the fuel hose before you press the black vacuum tubing into it.
 
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dsmuts said:
If your just needing to drive the car you could wrap that t in electrical tape and it'll hold long enough to go to the store and get a new one.
Click to expand...
Yea that and maybe a month longer just got a new place so I'm piss broke. it doesn't run ****y at all you can just hear it. I have it wrapped in electrical tape for now. Seems to work ok for now. Just wonder if it will end up melting
 


Ok so this is a long shot but does anyone have a guess on which one of these 4 part #s would have this fitting in it? Gotta be super cheap this month but still want it fixed with the right part.

24508742
24504167
24506665
24507839
 
To do it properly... you need the 1st number. Its not cheap... its a whole harness.

GM# 24508742 - $47.53 (at my dealership, may change for you)
HARNESS, SPCHG BYPASS VLV & FUEL PRESS REG VLV (INCLS 506) (TO (546)VALVE, SPCHG BY PASS- (581)FUEL PRESS REG- (543)SUPERCHARGER-TO (559)SENSOR, MAP)

98RegalGS.jpg


The other numbers might have a piece off a different year model or another car that would work, but this is the proper set designed for YOUR car.
 
LOL the first thing I did on my GTP was get rid of the crappy plastic vacuum lines and replace them all with rubber lines. It was the best $8 I have ever spent on my car.
 
TLSheff said:
To do it properly... you need the 1st number. Its not cheap... its a whole harness.

GM# 24508742 - $47.53 (at my dealership, may change for you)
HARNESS, SPCHG BYPASS VLV & FUEL PRESS REG VLV (INCLS 506) (TO (546)VALVE, SPCHG BY PASS- (581)FUEL PRESS REG- (543)SUPERCHARGER-TO (559)SENSOR, MAP)

98RegalGS.jpg


The other numbers might have a piece off a different year model or another car that would work, but this is the proper set designed for YOUR car.
Click to expand...

now this is perfect. Thanks. Now just to get unbroke and fix it
 
Really i spent like $10 doing it all myself, rubber lines and plastic connectors. Its extremely easy to fix yourself and mine is very tight like it should be with no leaks. But hey if you want to spend the $40-$50, go right ahead :D. Theres nothing wrong with doing it the way some of us others have, it works better than you think.
 


I still may go the cheap route I just have to find a connecter that will work for 2 different diameter ends if not the kit won't be the worst idea since its all 14 years old. In not knocking anyones cheaper way to get stuff fixed
Never said it was a bad way to fix it once. thanks for everyones help
 
Go to the "help" section and buy a package of t's. They have different sizes including ends with different diameters. I used some of the funky ones like you are talking about when running the vac lines on my turbo kit.
 
I dont get why this is so hard? lol

Go to a hardware store, Home depot and or the auto parts store.

Get a barbed metal T and some silicone line that will fit. Napa sells it and so does every other place.

Why would you go to the dealer? Why would you replace it with the same thing that broke before? Why would you use plastic connectors that may get brittle and or break.
 
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Pure2sin said:
I dont get why this is so hard? lol

Go to a hardware store, Home depot and or the auto parts store.

Get a barbed metal T and some silicone line that will fit. Napa sells it and so does every other place.

Why would you go to the dealer? Why would you replace it with the same thing that broke before? Why would you use plastic connectors that metal get brittle and or break.
Click to expand...

Never said anything was hard and never said I didnt get what people were saying. I more than uderstand the way to fix this not using the stock parts from the dealer. Those 3 why ??? you asked are all personal preferernce. Do I want to spend more money no. Do I want to fix this yes how I choose is all me. Thanks to everyone else for the help that didnt make a pointless post that just repeated what everyone helpfull said.
 
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