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Brake line burst

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ovel2clock

New member
Hey guys -- I have a 2000 Grand Prix SE that has seen it's fair share of Midwest winters. I saved it and it now resides in NC never to see snow/salt again. However, the damage has been done. Today while driving the brake petal went to the floor and was nearly impossible to stop. Got it home safely and noticed that the brake lines were severely corroded near the firewall and was dripping brake fluid. There seems to be 5 steel lines going to the back, I'm assuming 2 are for the rear wheels the remaining 3 are the fuel lines? Getting brakes back is my primary concern; is there a write-up on how to do that? What parts do I need? Appreciate any assistance. Thanks!
 


Yes two of them are brake lines, and the remaining 3 are for fuel. Supply, return, and vapor. You will need 3/16 bake line, a double flaring tool, and if you want, a bending tool. I haven't seen a write up for it, but it depends on how you want to do it. You can find the bad section and replace just that part, or remove the whole line and replace the entire thing. Many people go with just the section, and flare the ends and use a union to join them.
 
I have found NiCopp or a nickel/copper combo line is amazing. Since you only want to do it once, it's easy to bend with your hands, it can never rust, it's a tad more expensive than the standard stuff.....damn though. I'll never go back.
 
If you're just going to patch an area you can buy brake line by 4-6 feet lengths. Or if you're replacing a whole line you can buy a 25' coil.

Steel brake line is what came on the car, and costs about $14 for 25' on ebay, or $23 at advance

PVF coated brake line is better because it resists salt to last longer than regular steel line, and costs about $19 for 25' on ebay, or $28 at advance

The NiCopp is the best line and last pretty much the lifetime of the vehicle, and costs about $30 for 25' on ebay, or $60 at advance

I'd suggest getting the PVF. Unless you're rich and don't mind spending the extra money (but people like that don't usually own GP's), it's not worth it on 13 year old cars because even regular steel line can last up to 9 years in Michigan. The PVF should last at least 15 years, and I don't think many 2000 GP's will still be on the road in 2028.
 
With a coupon code I can get out the door with that NiCopp for what you are going to pay for the regular crap. Coupon and a better product, that's the way I like to do it.
 


When my brake line broke on my 98 I just used some compression fittings and a new piece to replace the rusted crap.
 
02NavyBlue said:
You have a 62% off coupon code?
Click to expand...

In reality, I walk in and tell them the price I'm paying. Honestly though the NiCopp is so much easier to work with and not worry about kinks etc on tight bends that IMO it's worth the extra. As well, the local Advance started carrying pieces with ends like the other stuff.....so you don't even need to spend that much extra for a small repair.
 
Wait...you bargain retail prices? And actually get them to charge you less just because you tell them you'll take your business somewhere else? Thats funny, well in that case might as well go with the NiCopp lol...
 


Looks like NC. I gave him ways to do it at a better price. You went all nerd on us and calculated it to the exact percent..lol
 
02NavyBlue said:
Steel brake line is what came on the car, and costs about $14 for 25' on ebay, or $23 at advance

PVF coated brake line is better because it resists salt to last longer than regular steel line, and costs about $19 for 25' on ebay, or $28 at advance

The NiCopp is the best line and last pretty much the lifetime of the vehicle, and costs about $30 for 25' on ebay, or $60 at advance
Click to expand...

Those were ways at a better price too ^ I meant where is he as in is he coming back to GPF to give us an update. The percent took a mere 30 seconds with a calculator...lol
 
Thanks for the replies. Sorry been really busy at work. I'm planning on replacing just the affected portion this weekend as that seems a whole lot easier and less time consuming.

I also picked up a shift kit and I'll try tackle that while I have the car lifted. Should I also fix the fuel lines? Is that any different?
 


I wouldn't change fuel lines unless they're leaking or something, they're thicker than brake lines. But check all of the brake lines while you're there. If one spot went, others in the affected area probably aren't far behind.

If you're putting in a shift kit you should change the filter and fluid since you have to remove both to put it in. 8 quarts minimum.
 
I'd start off with 6.5 quarts, start it up and end up using 7.5-8 typically. I've never seen 8 be a minimum, you left that trans open for a while, didnt' you?
 
I sure did, and I've seen others recommend 8 too, meaning buy at least 8 quarts because you shouldn't drive a car that's two quarts low on trans fluid. I measured the old stuff since I put it in gallon milk jugs so I knew how much to add.
 
OK, so Sunday I worked on the car. Found the source of the leak (front passenger line touches the firewall) and used compression fitting to splice in a new line. Tested and all holds up.

Replaced spark plugs and wires and the engine runs like much better. Probably need to replace the coils as the terminals were corroded. If I get another check engine light I'll replace them.

Up next is the shift kit. So I need 8 quarts of fluid? I have the shift kit and filter ready, just need the fluid and some free time.

Thanks for the assistance so far!
 
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