• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

brake light is on...



going to try the brakes this weekend..

Which side does the wear indicator go on? inside or outside?

Does the indicator go on the top or the bottom? leading edge or trailing edge...


I hope just to follow how my current pads are placed.
 
Ok.. the other thing I am worried about is how much fluid is go iive ng to come out of tge master cylinder... I guess we will se.. maybe I should of bought some brake fluid.. which kind do I buy?
 
dot 3 should work, check the cap of the master tho.

you shouldn't need any new fluid, if you topped it off and we now know its gonna over flow when the calipers are compressed, so take some out with turkey baster or clean paper towels dip and ring out, watch your paint, dont drip any on it or bye bye paint.

most pads have a squealer on all the pads, just line them up so you can see them easy top or bottom your choice in the end, they are there to make noise and warn you your pads are low. as well as a visual.
 
Do I need to put antiseize on the front and back side of the rotors?


I see the new rotors are coated in oil.. how thoroughly do I need to clean them with brake cleaner?
 


After i put them on the car i just spray them down on both sides with cardboard under then to keep from killing the driveway.

ive not had any issues with the rotors rusting or freezing on the hub or wheels. so i think you can pass on that step.

you do want to clean and re grease the long slider pins tho. clean the hole in the caliper too, grease the pin, work it in and out, re grease it, work it in, you'll know when its good.
 
yup brake cleaner right in the hole in the caliper, work the pin in and out to break up the old hard grease, watch your eyes for the brake cleaner to shoot out, small bursts of cleaner, fill the hole let it sit a bit.

once the caliper bolt is loose un screw it, once it feels like its spinning freely, you need to pull it out, it will some times make a suction sound when it comes out lol

when re installing the calipers make sure the dust boots are collapsed correctly too. you just push them flat as you put the caliper back on.
 
well if you've done it before maybe 15 minutes a brake. being a noob id give your self time for a 2 hour job maybe for all 4 wheels.

after you do the first one it will be cake for the next one.
 


Was going to jump in when I read your first post, but it seems scotty dogs has you pretty well taken care off. Only thing I would say is a c lamp and old pad are a lot cheaper thank that harbor freight tool. Not saying it's bad just a waste of money been doing my own brakes since 89 and never needed one
 
hes got a 04+ so he needs a tool to turn the caliper piston back in, c clamp wont work on the backs for him.

and its so nice to have a caliper tool kit. makes compressing the pistons super easy.
 
i thought you were 04+, those turn back in, you can just c clamp with a old pad over the piston and crank it back in then. nice and simple.
 
Thats ok.. thanks.. hope you guys are around tomorrow If I have trouble.. im only doing the rear.

Is there any way to know beforehand if the piston pushes in or turns in? I may try this on my nissan murano..
 


some cars do some dont. best to look it up before you break the caliper by clamping it.

if it turns in most of the time its got dimples on the piston end. so the tool can be used.
 
So does that otger tool then allow me to turn it then? Should I just buy that cube? For otger cars?


Where do I look it up at?
 
i start with google. just ask a question lots of links will show up, other car forums and such.

you tube has tons of how to's as well same deal just search what your looking for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top