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Blown motor? Head gasket? HELP PLEASE!!!

Timing isn't going to be off, similar to the HG's.. it just doesn't happen. The teeth on the gears are beefy and the chain is amazing. It's similar to a SBC 350. You'll drag chain til the cover pops a hole on one of those before you have it jump timing.

If you think something is causing a leak, pull the valve cover. Check the springs and valves.
 


Stick a pen in the spark plug hole and turn the motor till its pushed all the way out.

You need to be testing at TDC else your leakdowns wont be accurate.
 
Like matt said, stick a pen, or a zip tie, in the spark plug hole, and roll the engine over by hand, with a breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet, untill the piston push's the pen or zip tie up. Screw in your leakdown tester. If you have 100% leakage, you could be 180 degrees out (meaning the piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke, and all the air that you are putting into the cylinder is escaping through the open exhaust valve) If you are 180 degrees out, rotate the crank one complete turn, and retry. If the piston is not at TDC, the air pressure will push the piston to BDC. If this happens, you have to refind TDC.


Finding TDC - I like to use the zip tie method....roll the engine over by hand to the point where the zip tie STOPS moving upwards, and make a mark on the dampener/timing vover with a whiteout pen. CONTINUE to roll the engine over in the same direction untill the piston STARTS moving again, and make another mark on the timing cover in line with the mark on your dampener. Roll the engine back the opposite direction, a few degrees PAST your first mark. Roll the engine over untill your single mark on the dampener is centered between your 2 marks on the timing cover.


Does that make sence?


Jay
 
You are correct on the headgasket, generally there would be something similar of having compression even on the cylinder that's toast, even if it is 5-10 psi. You may not always have coolant though if the gasket blew between cylinders. However the adjoining cylinders would be similar in compression.

If you were just warming the car up ( idle I hope ), then as much of an oddity as it may be I would say you lost a head gasket, I doubt seriously you lost a piston or multiple while your car was at an idle warming up. It's take a massive amount of lean burning to burn a piston down. I doubt seriously 2 minutes of warmup did this. It sounds like a headgasket, or possibly a broke valve spring or valve. ( this would genrally only be on a single cylinder which in turn bring you back to the headgasket.

If I were to place my opinion somewhere I would point fingers at your headgasket being blown inbetween cylinders which isn't that rare. I blew hundreds of headgaskets in my Conquests. High boost applications are great for it :) ... but every last one of them was between cylinders.

Test as you will, when you get around to yanking the head off make sure you double check the plane of the head and the block make sure they are both flat. Oh ... and in three letter... ARP...
 
it seems like its serious to me. it either let go an end cap/rod, dropped a valve retainer or the infamous popped a piston...wow this one is strange
 


Hey guys sorry i haven't replied back....

Thanks for going over on how to test at TDC. Last time did that i could see the pistions and the motor was out of the car so it was a little easier ;)

Verdict- Hg is fine.... It was My CPS not letting it start. Replaced that and she fires up but ran like complete SH%*. I ran compression test/ new leakdown on every cylinder. My front middle has zero compression. So My dads buddy came over with his camera (little snake) . This thing is amazing! He goes down in and makes sure i didn't pop a piston. It all looks good... during the leakdown test we had air coming out of the exhaust (bad valve/retainer) So we are crackin into it this week to get the head out, bring it to a machine shop, put a new valve in (he thinks something just got stuck or i dropped the retainer) then put it back together w/ new HG, and everything new on the way up.

So...... i quess i am happy its not a pistion... The Hg will get replaced anyways.

What i have replaced:

- 1 Coil (was lower than the others during testing and wanted to eliminate it)
- MAF Sensor (had check engine light on for this guy for a month now... hadn't had time and wasnt effecting anything that i could tell.)
- CPS- IT GOT IT RUNNING :)
-New spark plugs, New wires.
- New serp. belt and new tension pully ( was spun) Bad bearing)


So even tho i spent about 275 in parts... It was all things that needed to be changed..... Now Ill spend another 300 to get the HG kit, heads into a machine shop, new valves etc.... But for just over 500 and this being the only major thing even to go wrong with my car, i am ok with it. This puppy is gonna run great after and for a long time!!!
Thanks guys for all your help. When my stuff breaks it likes to give me a chase. Cant just be a coil and be easy..... HAHAAHH
 
OH and i forgot to mention that my 575 ish dollar fixes is still cheaper than any shop!!!!!!
Just for them to do the HG i couldn't touch it cheaper than 1000. Some we're even over 1300. So i imagine if i had them do all this i would be looking around 1,500 w/ parts and labor. F@#& THAT!

Ill also let ya know how the new valves go and how she runs after. If i can figure out how to post a video i might just do so! Thanks again guys!
 
Air coming out of a valve is common enough on these. I come across this when I'm changing springs and have the cylinders pressurized. Typically there's one on a motor that's overly bad and with the rockers off, I whack it with a rubber mallet. Usually one or two whacks helps it seal well.

Just a thought before you tear it apart to find that your valve springs are getting weak with age.
 
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