• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

best motor oil



I would like to see if Blackstone labs could release their oil TBN analysis results so we could all see how well engine oils really do.

=====================================
What's the best oil to use?

Ah, the million dollar question. We are an independent lab, so we don't make recommendations. It has been our experience that oil is oil, and either petroleum or synthetic-based oil will work well for just about any engine.


Come on, you're holding out on me. I should use synthetic, right?

Buddy, you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us.
 
There are benefits to using a thinner synthetic in the winter if your motor spends most of its time cold like mine.
 
Also synthetic tends to be better for longer duration between changes.

If you're going to stick with "every 3 months, 3k miles" then use whatever's cheapest in the appropriate weight.
 
i personally use rp 5w30 in everything changed every 3k. i had actual dyno proof on my racebike that royal purple had a 1.3 hp gain and a .7 lb ft loss with royal purple vs the hp4 honda synthetic blend. but the bike is a completely different animal all together.
 


Synthetics while being more uniform at a molecular level have the benefit of having much better detergent packages as well as anti-wear agents and generally more of them. That's why some people say synthetic causes leaks on older cars..... it's true, sort of. It's just that synthetic and all it's cleaners will wash away more crud inside your engine that a cheap oil probably wouldn't. Sometimes dislodged trash in an engine opens up where a gasket had failed anyhow and voila, a leak is formed.

My girlfriends 02 GTP is a perfect example. When I got it the engine looked like it was caked with mud inside ( literally, lol) because of neglect and LIM failure. Well about 14000 miles later at the last oil change I popped off the fill spout and looked around on the front head. The engine is cleaning up nicely inside and looks almost half respectable whereas before you couldn't see where the head bolts were as they were caked over. It also has a pretty severe oil pan gasket leak forming, but it actually was leaking when we bought the car.

I would use a good quality oil and run whatever you want for changes. I don't do the 3K crap anymore, it's a proven waste. Even at 15K when I sent my last analysis in on some oil from my old work truck it was still clean and was deemed serviceable. I generally change between 6K-10K nowdays and use a decent quality synthetic oil. That's just me though.
 
There's not really any 1 best oil out there.

I use whatever is on sale/cheapest in the 10w30 Synthetic department.
Just change your oil when it's due, dont over tighten the oil filter, and make sure to oil the gasket, and you'll be good, with whatever oil you choose.
 
i personally use mobile one high milage full synthetic. although i started using it right after i replaced a leaking oil pan gasket, (pain in the azz job) because i heard it could cause the leak to get worse.. everyone i talk to likes the mobile one syth..
recently ive started adding a little marvel mystery oil in when i do the oil change and also a little in the gas tank.. i will see how good everything acually works when i have my heads off next month!
 


My Sierra with 180K gets whatever high mileage non synthetic is on sale, its a Gen 3 5.3 so i get piston slap no matter what at start up. The turbo GTP gets mobil 1 10w30 and either a K&N or Delco filter whatever is on sale.
 
I have 141k miles and have only used Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic (98 GTP).

The heads with valve covers off look new (literally).

I suspect this has more to do with proper change intervals than anything else.
 
I don't often hear Kendall Synthetic blend recommended. Supposedly for higher mileage cars. I find it to be a pretty good price point for a decent quality oil. Bottom line is, check it often, keep it at the proper level, don't let it go toooo long between changes
 


f3racer said:
i personally use rp 5w30 in everything changed every 3k. i had actual dyno proof on my racebike that royal purple had a 1.3 hp gain and a .7 lb ft loss with royal purple vs the hp4 honda synthetic blend. but the bike is a completely different animal all together.
Click to expand...

This may be true, but with that being said, Oil is NOT meant to be a power adder by any means. Think about what is being given up to allow your motor to output more HP...lubricating abilities, reduced wear on the motor, and moderate cooling characteristics. Royal Purple has been tested against other brands and it scores the worst on all three tests. It runs hotter, does not reduce wear like it should, and really doesn't "stick" to parts like it should in the motor. All-in-all, it's crap and should be discontinued. The problem is that they have such a large advertising program that they can convince even the most hardcore racers into using it, and then they wonder why they spun bearings in their $25k mile motors or turbos destroyed themselves due to improper cooling and lubrication of the bearings.
 
I just try and keep the same beand oil that has allways been put in it, using RP and knN filter every time when the oil system gets down to 20%
 
what weight oil? i just put in 10w40 at the suggestion of the mechanic that did my engine swap. being that we are in florida with our heat in all he said it was good to run a thicker oil.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top