• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Bad knock and struggling...

Amb4

New member
I've got the Z7 kit with IC.. Its running 10 PSI boost at WOT, the car was tuned about a month ago and running fine with 2* knock max
Just over the last few days whenever I go to WOT the car kicks in and out of power (like TC) then I see 7* knock and up to 14 at the end of a gear...
I was told it feels like the car was starving for air, I don't know if that makes a huge difference or not but the filter is kind of dirty so I'm going to clean it out. Other then that what kind of issues would make this randomly happen?

*Problem solved* ECT sensor wire was hitting the exhaust pipe causing it to melt and short out. Replaced the wire and sensor and it runs great.. for now haha
 
Last edited:


Still using high octane fuel?

Lean knock is a possibility. It's not lean persay but not rich enough to prevent the misfire. Check your af and dump more fuel at it.
 
When's the last time you replaced the fuel filter? May be time to do it again just to rule that out...
 
I was using 91 at the time of it originally happening, but i just filledit up with 94 and the problem continues. I will try both ideas, the fuel filter was quite some time ago so ill get a new one. Thanks guys any other help is appreciated!
 
Do you guys agree with this, the the high numbers of knock is what is causing the car to jump in and out of power, the knock is coming from high temps.
When I floor it after I just start driving the car its no big deal and there is no knock, but once the temps get up there it starts acting up...
I haven't seen them go up passed 188 I don't think and my IAT while driving is around 80. So what if I buy a 160* t-stat and colder plugs?
 
What do you have for supporting mods? It seems that you have some bigger problems than just temperature. For 10psi you're looking at intake, headers, 3"dp, no cat straight exhaust, 65lb injectors, upgraded fuel pump and a few others. I'm worried you're under modded to run the pressure you're running.
 


You could possibly be tuned when knock goes over a certain level it robs your cars Spark causing it to jump in and out of power.
 
if thats the case and you need those supporting mods then yeah i am definitely under modded. But i dont understand i talked to the tuner himself personally and he told me they saw a max of 2* knock on a hott day when they tuned and that was at 10psi.
I bought the car off the local forum here and this is what it has. But as of now i turned the boost all the way down and still saw 8 degrees of knock.... and the DP is just the standard 2.5 with cat and no res. Looks like i have some shopping to do!
[FONT=&quot]
Motor/Performance:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
L36
ZZP Z7 Turbo Kit
Liquid/Air Intercooler
Ceramic Coated Exhaust
42# Injectors.
Boost controller (Set @ 10psi)

Transmission:
300M input shaft
Redline rebuilt tranny
3000 torque converter
Shift kit
Hardened components
Upgraded half-shafts
3.29 gears

Exhaust:
3" to Magnaflow y-pipe
2.5 split to Magnaflow polished stainless mufflers
Dual/dual chrome tips

[/FONT]
 
no there just regular ac delcos, hopefully i can get it to the tuner soon because i dont want to be dishing out money :(
 
Dont switch between 94 and 91.

They have different energy concentrations.

Get your car tuned for 94.

try a bottle or two of octane booster to see if the knock goes away, if it is lessened then the knock is real. If not, its false.

Also, the ECT has to be >/ 160* F for KR to appear. Not 100% on that, but thats what i've been told.

I dont get it though, redline is scarborough and oshawa.... Will is in whitby now and kevin is in toronto. Ever consider those options?
 


ya im bringing it to Will as soon as hes ready for me. He was the one that worked on this car the most with Justin so he knows all about it.
Justin use to run 91 v-power with it, and i put 91 petro the first day i got it then ultra 94 the second time i filled up You really think the v-power would make that much of a difference? because both of them told me they saw a max of 2* knock when they tuned it. I havent changed a thing since so thats why im so confused.

Does false knock still rob the car of power? and if it is false how o you eliminate it
 
Sounds like fuel or spark. Is there any way you can post up a scan? Have you checked the vac lines? What plugs are you running?
 
What on the fuel part do you think it could be. Injectors, bad pump, fuel filter? and they are autolite 103's but they are gaped pretty far. Im pretty sure it was 1.0 or 100.. I was reading somewhere that said to gap it at .50-.52
 
What on the fuel part do you think it could be. Injectors, bad pump, fuel filter? and they are autolite 103's but they are gaped pretty far. Im pretty sure it was 1.0 or 100.. I was reading somewhere that said to gap it at .50-.52

That's why I need a scan or something, your problem could be a number of things. Looking for something that could narrow it down. I WOULD NOT try to get the car to knock again. 2* is bad enough on 10psi turbo. There are too many variables to say it's one thing or the other. Without having a scan or knowing what the actual AFR is doing or fuel pressure, it's hard e-diagnosing.

If you have a boost controller hooked up, it's time to take it off or turn it all the way down. I would not go over 20% throttle until you figure it out.
 
I do have the boost turned all the way down. I won't lay on it until I get it to the tuner then.
But There's no way of getting a scan until he checks it out unfortunately
 


Got in to the tuner. We replaced a bad spark plug wire, spark plugs, one coil pack and fiddled with the MAF..... After all of that i can now go WOT and it wont knock. The only bad part is it threw 2 codes P0102 ( MAF) and p0300 (multiple misfires) Im going to swap out the other 2 coil packs and im going to replace the MAF today. I'll let you guys know how it is running.
One thing we noticed when we first started scanning was it was adding 16% fuel to the long term fuel bank trim. Aftetr that we checked the fuel pressure everything was good.

Now it is running but just throwing those 2 codes.
 
still no luck.. when i go WOT the AFR is 10.20 im pretty sure is that normal? it really feels bogged down.

Anyways if i cant get it to go how hard is a swap from a 97-03 turbo setup with the tranny into an 06?
 
You're getting into territory that I'm not familiar with. IIRC the ratio should be closer to 13.5-14.5 so this looks like you're running really rich. The multiple misfires might be telling you that the car is not running on all cylinders. If you are dropping cylinders you might be increasing unburned fuel and that might be causing your AF ratio to go so rich. This is all specualtion and you need to find a shop that knows what they are doing because it seems like you're on the road to a bad failure. (I'm not saying Will doesn't know but you need to get it back to him if he does)
 
I know a lot of turbo guys run way smaller plug gap then that, iirc more like .030-.040. Somewhere in there anyway, pm Tengis
 
Back
Top