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Audio help and ? come one come all

jteske88

jteske88

New member
well running into some dimming(massive dimming) well i wont be able to work on it till 10ish tonight but putting thereios together today. first of so you know im running 2 se 12's at 1 ohm on a re audio dts1500.1 so 1000 rms, if i do my math im needing about 83 amps alone for that. Im trying to figure what our current draw is from stock electrical so i know what i need to compensate for. im doing big three upgrade tonight and i just ran my power to fuse box for a temp soulutioin. i need more power wire. and while runnign i noticed little clamp meter thing on the ground? whats that for? well anyone with some experince let me know. my car is a 05 gxp 5.3l,
 


awg 8 wire will give you 96amps @12volt for 15feet... if running from the battery to the trunk... make sure you fuse the line also. don't want to short that across the frame of the car!
 
Well, the 83A is if your car isnt running. Its only 71A while its running. But you're pulling around 143A when its really thumping. If its dimming at low volume, you need to test your amps ground wire. Where is the ground mounted? And I hope you're not running an 8 gauge wire. An 8 gauge wire cant support that kind of power. You should be at least at a 2awg wire.
 
8awg, i gots 4awg with a 100 amp inline, pushing 1000rms at 1 ohm. hope the big three can help before i result to other measures. more runs, ho alternator batteries if i have to. and this is daily
 
kieth its on the strut post paint grinded away, and i been doing math all morning, our results were close but what is the car pulling by itsellf. i need to factor that in
 


Never run a cap unless your electrical is already up to par, then they help sliiightly with bass hits, but are honestly worthless.

After your Big 3 it would be a good upgrade of sorts to drop a dry cell in for your starting battery at least. And grounds, always double check your grounds, and make sure your ring terminals are securely attached. Crimping works but do it right the first time, I personally solder mine with a propane torch.

If your grounds/Big 3 are up to par (instead of grounding your engine block, ground directly from where the alternator mounts to the engine block, more efficient in my testing), and you have a dry cell in front, and you're still dimming, possibly get your alternator checked. Mine was in shabby condition when I got my 05 GP at 59,000, so a 1000w RMS Rockford Punch amp fried the thing on my way to Ocean City, MY. Needless to say, driving off of a dieing battery with no charge (maybe 10v) eff's with all the electronics and makes for one very... edgy drive.

Your next step after big 3 and dry cell up front is a HO Alternator and a second dry cell isolated in the back, but you really shouldn't need all that if the previous is done well.
 
nik12937 said:
never run a cap unless your electrical is already up to par, then they help sliiightly with bass hits, but are honestly worthless.

After your big 3 it would be a good upgrade of sorts to drop a dry cell in for your starting battery at least. And grounds, always double check your grounds, and make sure your ring terminals are securely attached. crimping works but do it right the first time, i personally solder mine with a propane torch.

if your grounds/big 3 are up to par (instead of grounding your engine block, ground directly from where the alternator mounts to the engine block, more efficient in my testing), and you have a dry cell in front, and you're still dimming, possibly get your alternator checked. Mine was in shabby condition when i got my 05 gp at 59,000, so a 1000w rms rockford punch amp fried the thing on my way to ocean city, my. Needless to say, driving off of a dieing battery with no charge (maybe 10v) eff's with all the electronics and makes for one very... Edgy drive.

Your next step after big 3 and dry cell up front is a ho alternator and a second dry cell isolated in the back, but you really shouldn't need all that if the previous is done well.
Click to expand...

best post evAR!!!

Also...if your amplifier is built properly then it should already have the proper capacitance built into the power supply.

After all these years, somebody finally puts it all together... *single tear*

Can't wait to see what else you contribute!!! :D
 


nik12937 said:
Never run a cap unless your electrical is already up to par, then they help sliiightly with bass hits, but are honestly worthless.

After your Big 3 it would be a good upgrade of sorts to drop a dry cell in for your starting battery at least. And grounds, always double check your grounds, and make sure your ring terminals are securely attached. Crimping works but do it right the first time, I personally solder mine with a propane torch.

If your grounds/Big 3 are up to par (instead of grounding your engine block, ground directly from where the alternator mounts to the engine block, more efficient in my testing), and you have a dry cell in front, and you're still dimming, possibly get your alternator checked. Mine was in shabby condition when I got my 05 GP at 59,000, so a 1000w RMS Rockford Punch amp fried the thing on my way to Ocean City, MY. Needless to say, driving off of a dieing battery with no charge (maybe 10v) eff's with all the electronics and makes for one very... edgy drive.

Your next step after big 3 and dry cell up front is a HO Alternator and a second dry cell isolated in the back, but you really shouldn't need all that if the previous is done well.
Click to expand...

i 100% agree and anyone running 1000rms should have at least a ho alt or aditional battery
 
Jteske88 said:
and while runnign i noticed little clamp meter thing on the ground? whats that for? well anyone with some experince let me know. my car is a 05 gxp 5.3l,
Click to expand...

From personal experience the only thing you really need to know about that amp meter is if you run a ground wire to the battery negative terminal that wire must pass through the amp meter as well. Lets say you don’t do that, after a while (not immediately) you will get a “battery saver active” warning on your DIC. Don’t ask how I know that.:th_embarassed:

Basically GM uses that amp meter to monitor the state of charge in the battery and adjusts alternator voltage in an attempt to keep the needs of the car meet while trying to maximize the life of the battery. If you bypass the amp meter the whole program eventually goes out of whack.

Good luck beefing up your system man
 
Op go back to the basics and check the wires and connects... Something isnt right... Alt mite be goin out or even the bat on its last leg!! Lol
 


uhm im good with the basic, grounds and all are good. multimeter is my friend. big three when i get more rings in and hopefully it will help, but even in my old gtp there was a little dim after the 3 but it helped alot on my draw. im off firday and will be going to middle of no where cause nieghbors hate any bass.
 
06... 1k isn't much of a strain on the electrical system in all honesty. I mean, he could replace his starting battery with a stronger dry-cell, but at this power level, especially if he's not running a 4-channel as well, a decent wiring job is all that is needed.

Just for the record, hydraulic crimps ftmfw lol. The whole solder/crimp thing was a big debate on another forum (Caco).
 
06PONTGP said:
care to elborate y?
Click to expand...

Same as the above answer...

We have an individual around here somewhere who has gone to international competition in his class and won. He uses a stock alternator and only a couple thousand watts. A good ground is the key. Also, the charging state of a battery is above ~12.6V. Therefore, as long as you're above that you aren't ever pulling from the battery unless your vehicle is off. That's why upgrading a battery or even adding one in line downstream really doesn't do anything to help the electrical state of the system...unless the vehicle is off.
 
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