• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Audio help and ? come one come all

ok everyone big three took care of any issue i had, still wanna go bigger battery up front since im running a stocker and there will be future upgrades. really the ground help up front, but then again i have data2 codes that lead me to grounds in the car.
 


Check out XS Power for batteries... the S3400 is a direct replacement, and it's an awesome battery. For a more budget-friendly option, check out Shuriken. They're re-badged Kinetiks. Also, if there's an O'Reilly's near you, you can get a Superstart Extreme AGM. It's a re-badged Deka Intimidator.
 
I800C0LLECT said:
Same as the above answer...

We have an individual around here somewhere who has gone to international competition in his class and won. He uses a stock alternator and only a couple thousand watts. A good ground is the key. Also, the charging state of a battery is above ~12.6V. Therefore, as long as you're above that you aren't ever pulling from the battery unless your vehicle is off. That's why upgrading a battery or even adding one in line downstream really doesn't do anything to help the electrical state of the system...unless the vehicle is off.
Click to expand...

well to get the most power out of your amps i think most are around 14v IIRC and most comps are with cars off from what i been to and heard the guys i went through to get my equipment own the 3rd loudest van in the world called the ground pounder its ****in mad
 
I800C0LLECT said:
Same as the above answer...

We have an individual around here somewhere who has gone to international competition in his class and won. He uses a stock alternator and only a couple thousand watts. A good ground is the key. Also, the charging state of a battery is above ~12.6V. Therefore, as long as you're above that you aren't ever pulling from the battery unless your vehicle is off. That's why upgrading a battery or even adding one in line downstream really doesn't do anything to help the electrical state of the system...unless the vehicle is off.
Click to expand...
referring to me? i had a "HO" alt (stocks holding up about the same tbh) also had a g34 in the trunk tho 12v ftw...

side note if your wired at 1ohm your not seeing one ohm due to impedance rise. IE I've wired to 1ohm for 2 years (different subs and boxes still 1ohm tho) and the lowest I've seen was 2ohm highest was ~3.1ohm i'm normally around the 2.33ohm. That's useful info for when burping but music your doing all sorts of different notes so the rise goes up and down depending on the tuning. Grounds are the key, bad ground more drop and sometimes allot of feedback. Just my 2c
 


crazy try CLAMPING it then you take the same numbers and divide to get your ohm load.. IE last show (last one with the 1200D AQs) had clamped with 65.9V and 28.5A that's ruffly 1878W, @ 2.3Ohm originally wired to 1ohm
 


Fatboy501 said:
Agreed. I just offered the other options as they're lower-cost. I find that many people don't want to pay XS prices lol. XS is the shiznit though, no doubt about that.
Click to expand...
i being one of them i can get almost 3 dekkas for the price of a xs....
to the OP take the muti meter to your battery write down the voltage, then goto your amp inputs do the same thing and post your results. Do it with car on and one with it off
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top