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Any roofers on here?

Probably need to find a handyman kinda guy. Roofers are going to want to do the whole thing because it's easier and quicker aka more money.
 


Bought a ladder today. Gonna measure some things this week probably. Talked to Reptile this morning and he's willing to help me as long as it's not Balls Hot! Also he might reel in a friend for some cash. I'm down with that. Went to Big Orange and priced renting some air guns. 34 bux a gun for 24hrs. Not bad.

Waste Management wants $510.00 for a 40 Cu Ft dumpster.

Got the 13 foot 300lb Foldable ladder for $114.00.

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051
 
do you mean 40 yard container, if so thats over kill, get a 20 yard box and you 'll be just fine. unless its the same price but i would think the 20 would be cheaper.



and dont be this guy....


 


that may work, but the 40 yard is very high/tall, (8 to 9 feet tall) the 20 is waist high, put brush in first, crush with the weight of the shingles to flatten the brush out? save some coin....

we used to use wheel barrels, and trash cans to clean up the old roof, once the door has to be shut its easy to fill the box from over the side, with the 40 you have to work to hard to ramp and push it up a pile to dump inside the 40 yard box. and your never getting a thing over the sides of it.

30 yard box is still tall but better than a 40, they be about 6 ft tall.


most roofers opt for a 20 yard box. ease of loading is a big factor.


and if your putting the box in your driveway, and your if your driveway is in good shape, i suggest putting 2x6 or even 2x8 planks under the wheels of the box, and the fronts wheels. in a way so that when the box is picked up, the back wheels roll on the boards until its on the roll off truck, why? 1, it can and will sink into the driveway, 2, it can tear up your driveway when being dragged up onto the truck.


if the box has no front wheels, lay a board across the frame rails of the box, so they don't sink into the driveway. the mid west is know for using dead lift boxes, and they like to cut the front wheels off so the box cant roll away.

if your not home, but leave the planks and instructions when you order the box they should set the planks up for you, if not its always best to be there when they drop it off, make sure the door is clear and opens before the driver leaves. seen boxes backed right up to a garage door, and now you cant open the door. some drivers aren't to smart.
 
Ok.

Well I measured my roof and went to Home Depot today and got an idea of some of the material i'll need. At least 17sq of 3 tab 25 year shingles. If I buy more than 40 bundles it drops to 20bux a bundle. I'll need 68 of them. So that's roughly 1600 bux i just shingles. The guy was telling me to get #30 roofing felt vs the # 15 because it protects better. But it doesn't go near as far. 216sq feet vs 420. Both are about 18bux a roll.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...092007&prodComp_1=100086691&keyword=tar+paper
 
my guess is it snows where you live. so make sure you pick up ice and water shield, you lay it at the leading edge, right over the wood, its peel and stick. (where the gutter is) full width 30 inches, and split 50/50 up any valleys.

make sure you account for valley waste, and caps when ordering your shingles, if you want to order light/get more if you need them, make sure they have more in stock.

and a 17 sq roof will fit in a 20 yard box no problem.

and make sure when using a nail gun that the nails are all the way in, if they are not flush they can back out and lift the tab and then leak later on. so if needed smack them with a hammer if not in all the way.

new metal edge for the sides and the leading edge is also a nice touch, stuffs cheap, maybe 3 bucks a 8 foot length.

wish i was closer i could have set this whole thing up for you in a jiffy.

vid of ice and water shield, and drip edge.

 
Ya i gotta go back Thurs to get an actual estimate \ order stuff. The guy I talked to at Home Depot was an Architech so he really just helped me get an idea and told me to come back when the specialists were here. He did help alot though. I'm gonna put in roof vents probably. Which means i gotta put them in the eaves too... :( I might start on the eve thing before i do the roof. I don't know how i'll get up on the north side without a really fuggin tall ladder. I need to buy a sawz-all.
 


roof vents you can use a skillsaw, and just plung it in the roof between the beams, 4 cuts in a 4 to 6 inch square, done, it dont need to be pretty, its just a vent.

the soffit vents if you have vinyl soffits you can take the metal fashia metal off, take the nail out and slide the solid panels out for vented soffit.

soffit work if you need it all around can add up fast, you need a paneling saw blade, and you put it in backwards, yes backwards, you need a table to cut on with a wood raised edge to push the soffit up to. use a square to draw a straight line, and then hit it with the saw.

the soffit gets hung on the house wall side with a J channel its slides into the J and then you nail it at the outside edge, then cap with metal edge, coil rolls cut to size with a 1 inch flat turn added to cover the edge of the new soffit. the top of the new fashia metal gets capped with a new drip edge, chit looks sharp when a new roof is added as well, nice and clean looking.

or use these things if you have wood showing and like it. Buy Aluminum Undereve / Soffit Vent | Lambro 142
 
that will work, just make sure there's no insulation blocking air flow from the vent to the attic. a roof top attic fan is also good to have, just need electric to wire it up. they have a built in thermostat. a vent in the attic wall also helps out. depends on what you have for siding as to how good it will look though.
 
There's vents in the gable's right now. But the lower attic only has the south side vs the top attic has the east and west vented. It's vented between the wood siding. Kinda weird \ hard to explain. Basically if your up in the attic you can see daylight through the slats in the siding.
 
Sounds like it's coming together. Scott...you definately did a piece of roofing. I can tell just by what I remember.

Ryan...you'll know after the first storm that you and friends did a great job.

PS..I'm a fan of the thicker paper too. That's your first layer of protection.
 


Bill when say i've been roofing since im 12 im not kidding lol im kinda like the way you are with the w's, but for roofs.

my dad was roofer, so i worked summers with him, and then 2 weeks out of HS i was roofing full time, for the next 20 + years, so yeah i got a few roofs under my belt.

all kinds of roofs too, hot tar, torch ply, single ply cold app, glue down rubber, mechanically fastened rubber, PVC, shingles, metal shingles, metal roofs. steel deac rip and replacements, drain and scupper instillation, it just keeps going. and every shingle from a 25 yr to a 100 year shingles. they be thick! after you get to a 50 yr shingle you have to use large tin snips to cut the singles, razor knife wont cut it at all.
 
Wow!

So I know im gonna have to buy some knifes, tin snips for flashing, what else cause i think my pals have the shovels.

Chalk line ?
 
caulk line, more than 1 tape measure tool belt with nail pouch, hammer hoop, knife holder, tin snips, flat hand held pry bars work well for pulling all the nails out after the rip. you can nail the felt paper or get one of them staple hammers, nails work tho, i like to got 3 nails in a row every 3 feet, and try to stay off it. if your walk able, paper it up just try not to rip it up, if you tear it, put a patch over it, or cut it and slide a new piece in with over laps, you want your paper to be over lapped and no wood showing. the paper is a vapor barrier and does more than people think, do it right, and get it flat, wrinkles will show through the new shingles. also once you have you ice and water shield down and starter strips with a '1 1/2' inch over hang you can caulk the lines up the ice and water shield, when the paper is laid down you have lines on the paper you can follow now to keep your shingles going straight. hence doing the paper job well.

oh get hook blades, not straight razors, they work much better for cutting shingles. hook blades you can cut the top side of the shingle, a straight razor can not, if using a straight razor you have to cut it from the back side and then fold it to snap it the rest of the way. with the hooks make sure you not cutting anything under what your cutting.

also puck up some 8 penny nails to re nail the boards where the nails get ripped out, it happens.

like this.

31CVQV2JP6L.jpg
 
oh and don't get retractable utility knifes the blade gums up and they don't work well, and if pulling hard the blade they can come out.

my fav was the Stanley 299

like this one

10299.jpg
 
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