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Air to Air Intercooler....



Explicit_Spade said:
Bump.

Still haven't seen any facts about A2A I/C'd Supercharge cars yet.
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IT may be a little late on this, but here are some facts:

An AtW IC is only more efficient when you can keep the coolant temp well below ambient. As in they are great for drag racing, but fall short on high speed racing and track racing compared to an AtA setup.

There is no lag that some people keep mentioning in an AtA system How do I know because we run the M90 on the Thunderbird Supercoupe and have over 7 feet of piping and a small IC stock. I can assure you there is NO lag. Even with large FMIC's which some of the guys that run into the 10's have no lag, It's a myth.

If you want to checkout facts and dyno sheets go over to the SCCOA and look for them. We dynoed everything, from supercharger changes to porting styles to TB sizes.

Leave the damn MAF on the inlet of the blower in it's stock location and run a MAF system unless you just prefer SD.

Some of the dyno info is probably locked away in the paying section so you might not run across it but there is a ton of info on there just in the tech section.

If you say the Ford and Buick engine are different, you haven't been into both of them. The Ford is a copy of the Buick, but with Aluminum heads, thicker decks, high nickle blocks and forged cranks, other than that the displacement is the same , bore and stroke are so similar to not be an issue, and it uses an M90 with an AtA IC not to mention that the IAT is actually mounted after the IC.

Jeff
 
when I had my car on the dyno, the air to water intercooler didn't get heat soaked until the engine and transmission started getting hot. maybe engine and transmission temperature don't matter to an air to air intercooler. I dont see how one intercooler style could cool more than the other. they both use outside air to cool the air charge going into the engine.
 
That's the thing, they both have advantages and disadvantages. An AtW can cool below the ambient temp, but only for short periods of time, then your ics will turn to water and the temp will rise. It's been discussed in this thread to make a very large heat exchanger and that will help to an extent. The problem comes in that you have too many transfers taking place in an AtW you have charge air transferring to a core, then to the water in the core then to the heat exchanger in the front and finally to the air. With an AtA setup you are transferring from the charge to the core walls then to the air less transfers mean more efficiency. Now take the same car you just dynoed and the only change you make is a FMIC negating the size change from being able to use larger ducting. If you cannot provide proper airflow to the FMIC the dyno numbers will be lower, because your charge density is lower. But run something like the Texas Mile or other speed run where you have a lot of air going over the core and the AtA will outshine an AtW setup in normal form.

Jeff
 
I added a reservoir to my air to water intercooler. at some point I'm going to drop some dry ice into it and see what difference it makes.
 
SgtMarshal said:
I added a reservoir to my air to water intercooler. at some point I'm going to drop some dry ice into it and see what difference it makes.
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think that would blow up the ic and lines. the res for sure.

to pull dry ice off you need to take the ic return line to the ic then run it in a bucket of coiled metal line with dry ice in the bucket chilling the line and its coolant.

think old school dry ice fuel line bucket.
 


you do the same thing with an ice chest in the trunk. you run the coolant lines through it to cool the lines down, not actually throwing ice in the reservoir.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
think that would blow up the ic and lines. the res for sure.

to pull dry ice off you need to take the ic return line to the ic then run it in a bucket of coiled metal line with dry ice in the bucket chilling the line and its coolant.

think old school dry ice fuel line bucket.
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the reservoir has a bleeder, so the spent gas can escape. it's a coolant overflow reservoir from a 97/98 grand prix. it should work just fine, just not sure how much colder it will make the air charge. good thing is that its only like 1 dollar per pound, so if it doesn't work at all, its no big loss.
 
It works fine in cauldrons during Halloween..., but seriously though I don't think dry ice is a good idea for the simple reason that it goes straight from solid to a gas (sublimation) and this creates an insulating layer of gas that keeps the water from getting as cold as it could if actually in contact with a metal surface it's the same effect as when you dip your fingers in water then into molten lead or tin. I can't remember the person the boundary layer was named after, but anyway same thing.

Have you ever had a drink made with some dry ice in it from a warm bottle? It's not very cold as compared to regular ice.

Jeff
 


SgtMarshal said:
advantage of dry ice over regular ice is that it goes from solid to a gas, like you said, and so it doesn't dilute the coolant already in the system. dry ice is also much colder than regular ice, like -500 or something like that. here is a video of a dry ice reaction with antifreeze and water.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...&mid=797853B27017B2273B9E797853B27017B2273B9E
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I can't see videos at work, computer is too slow. But the temp of dry ice is only about -100F Liquid Nitrogen is not even that cold at around -300 or so off the top of my head. You still have to deal with sublimation which insulates the water from the dry ice. The effect is known as Leidnfrost effect (had to look that one up.)

Jeff
 
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