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Air Conditioning only working on passenger side??

disblile

disblile

New member
I have a 2000 gtp 3800 super. has the dual air control. im only getting air condioning out of my passenger side. i know its probably a vaccum issue for the driver side not working. can anyone give a location as to where to find the vaccum line that is used for this particular reason?
 


before you look at vacuums, make sure your driver side blend door motor gears are aligned.

to answer your question, the vacuum line enters through the firewall near the blower motor with a couple other lines IIRC.
 
thank you i will check that out. where is the motor located?? not too good with behind the dash kind of work. more of a under the hood kinda guy.:th_thumbsup-wink:
 
it's directly behind your radio on the driver side. may be a little lower but you need to take off the kick panel and then a few dash pieces to get in there. do a search either here or google.

once you've got the motor off, you need to disassemble the motor and make note of which way the shaft from the blend door rotates when you move the cold/hot knob so you know which way to align the gears.
 
oh and before you do this, make sure your freon levels are good. it can cause the same problem, as can a blockage in the system.

i'd check in this order.
1. freon level
2. blend door motor
3. orifice tube for blockage of any kind
 


let me know what you figure out... mine blows out both sides but the heat seems to be on at the same time on the passenger side so drivers is cold and passenger is hot as hell when first starting then when the air gets going its kinda warm to lukewarm... odd
 
Yeah, I'm dealing with the same thing. I ordered a new actuator motor the other day, so hopefully when it comes in, it will be the answer to this problem.

Someone mentioned on another forum that if the passenger side blows cold and the driver side does not, this is a tell tale sign of low on freon. I don't know the system, so I can't say whether I believe it or not, but it doesn't really sound logical because that would mean there are two separate systems of sorts - one for each side of the car. The door thing makes sense to me, but a system for each side of the vehicle doesn't quite compute. Can anyone put any light on this for us?
 
no i for sure have heat blowing out my pass side and nice cool air on driver side... also i have a high dollar set of manifold gauges to tell me its charged correctly. and no snow there are not two systems or anything like that... just doors and vents i have no clue how to fix...
 
Kejross said:
no i for sure have heat blowing out my pass side and nice cool air on driver side... also i have a high dollar set of manifold gauges to tell me its charged correctly. and no snow there are not two systems or anything like that... just doors and vents i have no clue how to fix...
Click to expand...

I apologize man. I read the first post and skimmed the rest of them too fast. I didnt realize that you have the opposite problem as the original poster. Good luck on finding the issue.
 


I'm not sure where the original poster is on this, but over the weekend, I swapped out the actuator motors and the problem didn't follow. Driver side is still warm air while passenger side is ice cold. I was able to manually operate the doors once the actuator was off and it seemed to be fine and even with it at the "cold" position manually, the air was still warm.

Someone mentioned vacuum lines or something. Can anyone go into more detail on that, please? Are there still vacuum lines on the digital head unit? I saw what appears to be a vacuum canister on each side when swapping the motors out. Is that the one?
 
i have same problem.. passenger side is ice cold drivers side is cool/warm.. im hopen its not those dammn blend motor behind the dash!!

could low freon be the problem?? i just had some put in 10ish days ago....
 
Summary and quick solution - freon was about 1 lb. low.

Now, for the rest...

I swapped the actuator motors from side to side and the problem remained the same, as I mentioned. The motors are the only thing that control the temperature, that I would have been looking for.

I just had the A/C charged a few weeks ago, with a new condenser in place. I had the dye added to the system, though, so I could detect a leak in the future if one showed up. I was fairly certain the charge wasn't low. Since no one would explain to me WHY I should consider charging the A/C when I had one side ice cold and the other side warm and the fan is blowing across the same evaporator, I had no reason to believe this could possibly be the case, so I dismissed it as a possibility.:th_winking:

All I read was "just charge it" with no reason given. After doing some reading in a forum where I came across some people willing to explain it, I began to consider it. It seems that the "cool" side of the evaporator is where the passenger side air comes from and the driver side is on the "warm" side. As the refrigerant moves across the evaporator the cooling effects are diminished by the time it reaches the side where the driver side air blows through, making it feel warmer than what the passenger side feels. This is the reason, I believe, that even though it's one system and not two separate ones, we can feel the cold air on the passenger side, still, while the driver side is getting warm.

TSB #99-01-38-005 also calls for 2.25 lb. R134a instead of 1.88, like on the factory sticker. New sticker p/n is 10442041. I didn't order the sticker, though, because it is $18.

Hopefully this helps someone and I know it's not a good technical explanation, but in lay terms, someone will benefit.:th_thumbsup-wink:
 
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i am having this crazy problem too, but each time i add freon both sides are cold only for a week or so then the drivers side is warm,pass side ok ,recently had dye added as i am sure there is a leak ,what is this sticker p/n 10442041 ??? just a factory sticker, could this be a condensor gone bad an how much to replace it,thanks for anyones help
 


It's just a sticker to put over the original sticker. Original one says (on mine, anyhow) 1.88 lb. and new one is to say 2.25 lb.

I had 1.88 the first time around and it was still exceptionally cold, to where I rarely ran it at the 60 degree mark.

Could be the condenser. Verify it with a black light on the dye, though. Mine was around $125, I think. Be sure you have the yellow glasses, though, so it shows up well. I was told the condensers usually start leaking on the driver side toward the bottom. Mine just had all the fins beat in. What we thought was a leak ended up being metallic paint from when I painted the fascia. Condenser is not bad to change out. I removed the air box/ECM, battery and tray and fans and the radiator moved forward enough to slip it out. The lines are easy to get to on the driver side.

This second time around, we found a leak in an o-ring on the driver side and one or both of the washers on the back of the pump. All have been replaced now.
 
hey, sorry for the long time delay! as it turns out my clutch on my copressor was not engaging all the way. it didnt make anynoise or anything and came on just fine. this is why i dissmissed it. i decided to gat one from the junk yard as to not be throwing away a lot of money for no reason. FIXED THE PROBLEM! thanks to everyone for your help.
 
i had the same problem, hot on the pass side and ice cold on the driver side, if u just had your batt off u may have hooked it up the wrong way, thus screwing up the actuators , pull poss cable for 15 minutes, (leave the neg on) resets cars computers, and when u reconnect the poss cable if the actuators aren't messed up it should all be working right again. i had my climate control cluster re soldered, and it went haywire after that, the reset made it all work fine again.

always put the neg cable on first when reconnecting the battery or the computers don't reset the right way.
 
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