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Aftermarket Heated Seat kit

I'm curious why you're saying to cut the seat. I know you're talking about the donor, but why would I not want to dismantle it to get at the heat pad and parts I will need, instead of cutting the cover? Is it just for time sake?
 


It's junkyard rules. In my case my Bonne didn't have a heated option. Therefore I had to get the pad out and the cheapest way ($5) for me was to cut the seat leather off and take just the parts I wanted. Then I used a stitch ripper and pulled the leather off the element. Did the same when I put the heaters in the Regal. Sure Regal has elements available. But for cost sake, I used GP heaters. Bonus was that the GP elements(pads) are larger than the Regal. Hence a broader area of heat.

Actually on the Bonne..I used caddy heaters, there's 4 pads. lower leg, butt, lower back, shoulders. Talk about living.
 
Now that I've began taking the seat apart, I see that the heat pad must be between the leather outer shell and the backing cover. It makes more sense, now, that you say what you're saying about cutting along the outer edge.
 
So, on the seat base, I have what I would call four panels. There is one on each side that runs from the rear of the seat and goes all the way to the front. That makes two. Then there is a rear panel and a forward panel. the wiring, I see like you described coming in through the bottom of the foam cushion and goes to the right rear corner of the rear panel. There is a heavy seam that divides the two outer side panels from the two inner panels. It's the same seam that has the velcro on the back side of it to position the leather cover onto the foam base cushion.

Is the heating element under the rear-most panel only? Is this the one that I can safely cut into toward the edge and not hit a vital portion?

Just nervous on this, I guess. It's been a rough day. (Told a good friend I'd help him out with a strut job on his Taurus and ended up spending the better part of 3-4 hours removing a broken bolt. I don't want to push my luck and cut into the wrong thing on this seat.)
 


Are these GP seats? If so, I use a razor and am easy or a seam ripper and go along the leather of the seat to unsew it all. Then the pads will pop out and you can put them into your seat. The biggest concern is to not cut the little wire in the seat heater.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Are these GP seats? If so, I use a razor and am easy or a seam ripper and go along the leather of the seat to unsew it all. Then the pads will pop out and you can put them into your seat. The biggest concern is to not cut the little wire in the seat heater.
Click to expand...

Yes, they're GP seats. It has stitching running fore and aft right down the seat about every 1-1/2" to 2" spacing.
 
Yes...it blows donkey dung, and that's why it's from a GP. Not that I dislike GP's because they have stitching ever millimeter or the most uncomfy seats ever (97-03). It's going to take you a few minutes, it'll be worthwhile. I took a razor and on the leather side cut each stitch.
 
I think I've counted about 250 or so stitches done on the bigger panel. Smaller panel only left to go, at the rear of the seat. Did you dismantle the large seam between the front and rear main panel by cutting the stitches, as well?

As you may have noticed, I'm only able to find a few minutes every once in a while to work on this - several irons in the fire.

Next question - where does this get installed when doing it like this in a GP? I figure it will go on top of the foam of the seat base, and under the leather cover, but should I insulate between the heat pad and the foam with a thin layer of cloth or thin padding?
 
You got them from a Gp and they are going into a GP. No need to add anything but the pads. I removed every bit of stitching. Sucks..but your significant other will love you in the winter.
 


Yeah, I am planning to add heat (aftermarket) in her leather Suburban seats, too, which I should have done about 10 years ago when we bought it.:o
 
Ok, since we're getting some storms tonight and we turned on the A/C in the house since it's to be in the 90s all week, I had some extra time to work on this again. Here is where I am. The pad is out and all the stitches are out - 600 or so, maybe??

I'll see about getting that photobucket account updated again...
 
yeah, PhotyPhoto says it wants a password.

You follow the wires from the elements to the module. then from the module there should be 2 or so wires heading to the switches etc.
 


Sorry, guys. Try it now.

I don't think the module I need is visible in any of the pictures, Bill, but I will take the tape off and follow the wiring.

It is looking like the passenger seat is going to end up with a bit more padding due to the heaters being between the cloth cover and the foam backer. That should please my bride.
 
So, in looking at the diagram you provided, as well as looking at the wiring on the seat, I believe I understand most of it and only have a few questions at this point:

1) Can I splice the Gray wire from my other gray wire on the original driver side switch? - illumination

2) Orange is battery power, right? Is there a good place to bring this from that you recommend? Why battery power and not "key-on" power?

3) Where is the best grounding point for that side? Passenger side seat frame is what I'm thinking, maybe.
 
Yes on illumination and ignition power at the switch.

The orange and black at the module must be high power. So therefore they can go directly to battery. The module won't work without ingition input from the switch, which gets it from the ignition circuit.

I have always found power/ground under each seat. The power seat connector is under the carpet typically in almost all cars. I've tested many times running the seat heater and moving the seat around..w/o issue. Likely it's not 100% the way GM would have done it, but it's close.
 
Are you saying I can pull the power (orange) and ground (black) from the driver seat and run the wiring under the carpet, over to the passenger seat?
 
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