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ABS light on, I'm stumped.

LS1GTP

LS1GTP

It's Slow
My ABS and traction control isn't working, I had the car scanned and there weren't any codes, and I changed the passenger front wheel bearing, everything is quiet now. Brake fluid is filled to the correct level. All I can think of is a broken wire to a speed sensor or the abs module is bad. Is there any other way of diagnosing either of the two besides inspecting the wires and just replacing the ABS module? Test light?

Please help. :th_lipssealed1:
 


Well a test light would work, but it'd be pretty easy just cranking the wheel hard left or right and inspecting them.

It's just tedious little crap...OR...pull off the dash and remove the bulb for the ABS light?

That's what I'd do because I'm lazy LOL.
 
Scanner capable of reading wheel sensor speeds. Obviously you still have a bad wheel bearing or I see bad wiring from the abs module to the wheel bearing frequently which will usually not set a code. people mistake this problem for an abs module or wheel bearing . They must be twisted if you run new ones.

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How was the car scanned? When my abs light was on it wouldn't give them any codes because the ebcm was bad. I hope this isn't the case in your car, but just keep that in mind. I'd just check the wiring for starters. You should have gotten a code if it was one of the sensors (hubs), but if it wasn't a Tech2 that scanned your car then I wouldn't trust it completely either.
 
Not sure how they scanned it, autozone did it.

And I already had the abs light pulled out but put it back in when I did the wheel bearing and it's still on. Just want my abs and tcs to work for the winter lol. I'll have a look at the wiring again.

Test light wasn't doing anything, I had the car in the air when it was running, also put it in drive and let the wheels move, got nothing from the test light.
 
Most will tell you that abs and traction control are worthless in the snow and rain. But anywho... autozone's scanner will not scan abs codes. You need to find a shop with an abs scanner, preferrably a TechII. THEN you will see what abs codes you have. And if it says "code can't be read" or something along those lines, then the EBCM is bad.
I say that because I fought the abs light for a while and no one ever told me it was a possibility. And 2 wheel bearings and new wiring later, I had to fix it lol.

But yeah I just had like a Firestone place, just an all around kinda shop use their abs scanner. Said communication couldnt be made with abs or something.
 


Ok cool, yeah my wheel bearing was bad anyway so I was just hoping it would fix the abs issue, now I'm here.

I'm taking my car to get my downpipe installed and a new fuel filter by a friend's shop, so I'll have him scan it.

And yes I've already heard that abs and traction control are worthless by a couple people haha, just want them working as they should.
 
hahaha i just pulled my ABS bulb.... i replaced both bearing because they were lose, lights still on.... checked for some frayed wire.... none that i could see... soooooo bye bye light :P
 
It's not a fraying issue. It's a physical break. When breaking/stopping the abs trips out when the speed sense drops off usually you'll see it blip 0mph on the scanner... Basically because it thinks that tire is locked up

Selling your car with bulbs knowing pulled is illegal. Just an fyi. Obviously I'm sure notifying the person your selling it to would solve that problem but don't try to pass it off to some random person.. If they take it in and they find that or an accident causes harm you can be sued.

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did you try working through the sensor wires that go from the bearing to the main harness? I have seen in several other forums that this could be the issue.
 
rperry435 said:
It's not a fraying issue. It's a physical break. When breaking/stopping the abs trips out when the speed sense drops off usually you'll see it blip 0mph on the scanner... Basically because it thinks that tire is locked up

Selling your car with bulbs knowing pulled is illegal. Just an fyi. Obviously I'm sure notifying the person your selling it to would solve that problem but don't try to pass it off to some random person.. If they take it in and they find that or an accident causes harm you can be sued.

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Click to expand...

Cool, but prove you pulled the bulbs out?

That's a dead case because you can play dumb too.
 
I'm not selling the car I'll drive it to the ground... and even if I do sell it I didn't know the abs bulb was gone :/. I'll fix it anyway once I feel like chasing wires
 
Pretty sure I found the issue. Passenger front harness to the speed sensor was cut and whoever did it used crimp connectors. We'll see if my $hitty soldering skills fixed it, otherwise I'll go to the junkyard and grab that part of the harness off a car since there's a connector that plugs into the main harness.
 


Ah lucky you had connectors. Mine was wired right into the main, so the only option I had was splicing it. And since crimping sucks and I can't solder to save my life, I used posi lock connectors. Pretty impressed with them if I say so myself.
 
Solder and tape/shrink tube outside the car/underhood..

Ttap and crimp style should only be used inside the vehicle where the wiring is not subject to weather and the elements.

:)

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rperry435 said:
Solder and tape/shrink tube outside the car/underhood..

Ttap and crimp style should only be used inside the vehicle where the wiring is not subject to weather and the elements.

:)

Sent using my Galaxy SIII on Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...


they still suck, even inside the car. air gets to the wires and kills it. then dry wire will just start and run down the wire inside the insulation.
 
I assume your talking about oxidation? Usually takes water or moisture to start causing that issue.

I've put hundreds of remote starts in vehicles over the years using Ttap and crimp style inside the vehicle required by my employer and when removing them years later having no wire damage or oxidation.. I highly recommend 3M brand..

the biggest problem I've seen with them is people using the wrong size connector for the wire.

Personally I solder and 3M super 44

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