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A-Pillar

DanPrixGTP

DanPrixGTP

Moderator
How much will it roughly cost to get my triple gauge A-Pillar installed.
1. Boost
2. Air To Fuel Ratio
3. Volts

- All from GlowShift, Tinted 7 color series
 


skip the A/F unless its a wideband gauge, the flashing bars gauge is just a light show and does nothing.


Get, oil pressure, boost/vac and volts or spend more money and get a aerofocre scangauge if your going to continue to mod.

Each gauge on glowshift is 35-60ish bucks, so with 2-3 thats already amost 100 and then add the pillar itself and thats another 50ish, so 150-200 on a rough guess.
 
It is not accurate. It only references the numbers coming from the factory narrow band sensor through the PCM. None of us would spend money on widebands if that number was useful.
 
I'm planning on doing mods to my car, but no for a long time because I'm still in school and don't make Alot of money at the moment. Hopefully by next year I'll start modding my car, so what's your opinion on the gauge I should get?
 
Definitely stay away from that A/F gauge. I had that exact one, except white face, in my car for 1 day and I removed it. It will do nothing but bounce from lean to rich and will drive you fuggin nuts. I replaced it with the oil pressure gauge.

DSC00105.jpg
 


I don't really know where the factory "T" is to replace the hose for boost, and I don't know where to hook up the wire for narrow air to fuel ratio gauge, and would I have to drill a hole through my firewall to get the wires through to the engine bay unseen? It's a pain to do that
 
You cut the vac line between the T under the snout and the MAP, then add a T. Connect the two lines you cut, along with the boost line.
photo-11-1.jpg


You connect the A/F to the rear 02 sensor, but no need to connect it unless you like watching the needle bounce back and forth from lean to rich. It is a pain to get the boost line through the firewall, but no drilling needed, there is a grommet under the brake booster on the driver side.
 


Well I can see my trans temp and everything else from my aeroforce gauge. The oil pressure gauge is easier than the boost gauge because you only need to run a small ass 18 gauge wire through your firewall. Basically:
1. Drain engine oil
2. Remove stock oil sending unit
3. Buy 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch thread adapter (got mine at o'reillys)
4. Install new sending unit that comes with the gauge
5. Run sending unit wire through firewall to the gauge and connect the power and ground.

This is where the old sending unit is (this is a pic of the sending unit that comes with the gauge)
sendingunit.jpg
 


alright, ill see what i can do about returning the A/F gauge and getting oil temp. or something else. thanks for the help. One more question, what source should I use for the Constant 12v source? and for the "dimming" feature?
 
There isnt a dimming feature on the glowshift gauges. Just constant 12v, switched 12v and ground. If you look under your driver side dash, towards the steering column, you will see a group of wires. The red and the red/white wires are your constant 12v.(you can tap into which ever one you like) The pink wire is your switched 12v. And you can get a ground by just screwing in a self-tap screw into the metal knee basher plate. (you will see this when you remove the plastic cover...the one your knees hit if your seat is moved all the way forward)
 
on my GlowShift gauges instructions, it says,
1.) Orange: Switched 12v Headlamp source
2.) Yellow: Constant 12v source
3.) Red: Switched 12v source
4.) Black: Ground

whats the headlamp source then?
 
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