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a/c compressor labor

Jakegday

Jakegday

New member
Hello all. i know several of you have access to labor guides, so i was wondering if you could tell me how many hours it lists for replacing the a/c compressor on a 2001 grand prix? Thanks in advance

Jake
 


i thought the hardest part was getting the line unbolted from the compressor cause its a tight squeeze. the bolt is between the two lines and they were kinda twisted funny so my extension and ratchet wouldn't fit. i didn't have as many tools then. i think i was using just a 10 mm wrench. not hard, just tedious. if i remember right, there was a super secret bolt for the compressor you could only feel, not see. but it wasn't hard to get off.
 
yeah, i own the factory service manuals for this vehicle. the job doesnt look hard at all. 3 bolts in front, then a bracket in the rear with 1 bolt on the compressor. Figured the guides would have at least 3 hours considering the time needed to evacuate, then refill. My trusted shop is charging me $100 to evacuate, then leak test and refill with new oil after the job. does that sound reasonable to you guys?
 


i dunno. i'm kinda red neck and if you know the compressor is bad then you just unhook the line and put the new one in and fill it. no need for a shop or leak tests. that is if you know that's what is leaking......or is it just bad as in won't turn on?

the compressors do leak.
 
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I had no problem swapping mine took about 20-30 min. But i had the front manifold out of the car at the time
 


it should be really easy. nothing in the way. just gotta reach. hr tops. put your own frigerant in if you know there's not a leak problem. i say buy a new one, not used. if there is a leak probably find it yourself by feeling the lines. hope its not condensor. that aint fun and its a lot for a new one.
 
Shiftingshaddow said:
it should be really easy. nothing in the way. just gotta reach. hr tops. put your own frigerant in if you know there's not a leak problem. i say buy a new one, not used. if there is a leak probably find it yourself by feeling the lines. hope its not condensor. that aint fun and its a lot for a new one.
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lol, id rather have the condenser go out then the evaporator. THAT would F my day right up!

There is no leak, the a/c works great. Just makes a loud moan and horrible vibration at around 1300rpms. I just mentioned the leak test since its included with the service. and its a good idea to make sure you didnt pinch any o-rings before you load it up with $20-30 worth of refrigerant.

Im really not too worried (famous last words) about any major issues. I plan taking it out through the passenger side wheel well. The manual also says to remove the lower air deflector for better access to the rear, but hopefully ill be able to skip that step
 
camopaint0707 said:
Those bolts were a ***** to get out. Plus I couldn't get a socket to hold the tensioner so that was a ***** for the ****ing belt.
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Odd, this is a pretty straight forward item.
Jack and support the pass side.
Remove pass tire and splash shield
Evac the system
Remove 1 13mm or 15mm bolt holding the lines to compressor
Remove 3 15mm nuts
Remove two 15mm bolts from the backside
Unhook electrical and slide out through pass wheel well.

Keep in mind, that's only the compressor. You should be doing the seals, accumulator/drier and orifice tube each time you swap a compressor. The orifice was put in a less than good spot IMO.
 
yes, im also replacing the o-rings and accumulator. The orifice tube im still undecided on because of its location, and the compressor did not grenade. dont wanna create more potential for leaks if i dont have to either.
 


I'm about to do mine and on the same fence. I get super icy air but the compressor bearings are giving up with only 219K on them.. what crap.
 
My compressor blew the seals 2 summers ago. I have a new on sitting in a box. Just not wanting to mess with the orifice tube. 5dollar part = alot of headaches! I need to go buy a new drier too.
 
orifice isn't bad if you pull the master off the booster adn then the abs off the strut, at least that's how the FSM does it. Still doesn't give you a ton of room.
 
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