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98 GTP Modded Overheating as soon as starting

gpaddictiongtp9798

gpaddictiongtp9798

New member
Hey all, I have a 1998 Grand Prix GTP with a 195 T stat but i want to put it a 180 and i have a 3.4 Pulley Autolite 104 Spark Plugs. I have yet to install my Cold Air Intake. my problem is when i start the car cold it runs for a little bit and then i drove it and the coolant blew out of the resevior tank. Im going to replace the coolant but i havent been driving the car because of this. Ive been thinking it could be the Waterpump, Coolant needs to be changed, or else because of the mods im getting Knock Retard and that could be why my car goes straight to red. . my problem is i bought the car a year ago from my buddy and he never took care of the car. it has 152,000 miles and wondering if i should just go back stock on the car. has anyone else ever had this problem.
 


see my coolant is circulating. and my prob is i followed what i was told to do on another website and all the info i get is conflicting. but the other gtp i got a few months ago it has a 3.4 pulley on it with CAI and the only flow mod it has is the cat was removed.
 
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i completly understand. i am storing the car in the garage until i can get some exhaust parts. im going to do a coolant flush and get a new t stat 180 i think also im going to put in the exhaust without the cat cause thats giving more free flow. then ill get some headers
 
Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
UMMM.............. YEAH, put that stock pulley back on or else the motor will blow up.

Do you have headers or any exhaust mods??

If not the car is bringing in more air than it can put out, so pretty soon the motor will blow up in your face. You have KNOCK becuase you have no flow mods.

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU START PUTTING ANY MODS ON: http://www.grandprixforums.net/f81/safely-modding-your-3800-powered-car-17482.html
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Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
Did you read what I said??? This site has really good info and trust me about the pulley. Your motor will thank you for doing it.
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Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
Get headers. I would get them quick befor anything happens to the motor.
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Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
Im sorry for going completely away from the orginal post, but Im just trying to help you out and to save the motor.
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quoted for 100% truth. u can still drive but STAY out of boost until u can let that thing breathe.
 
i would drive it but within five minutes of it running it overheats thats just sitting in park. but im going to go thru all the parts i did and make sure everything is functioning properly and add headers.
 
are ur hoses gettin warm? lower and upper? 180 t stat is gonna do nothing for u without a tune.... quick question... why buy a car from someone that u knew didnt take care of it?
 


the upper hoses are getting warm, and i bought it because i was in need of a car after i lost my job so i had to take a loss on the car i originally had or else i would of gotten one in better condition.
 
put another 195 thermo in and see what happens... have u flushed coolant recently? or added coolant when it was really low?
 
i havent flushed recently. i know that i do need a 180 thermostat, but as for the coolant when it first overheated the the resevior tank cap flew off and the coolant was shooting out. and i had to take some coolant out of there. but when i shut the car off you hear the coolant flowing thru all the tubes. that has gotten to be really loud. but the car has been really taken care of since i got it. ive pretty much flushed and replaced everything needed to date
 


gpaddictiongtp9798 said:
i havent flushed recently. i know that i do need a 180 thermostat, but as for the coolant when it first overheated the the resevior tank cap flew off and the coolant was shooting out. and i had to take some coolant out of there. but when i shut the car off you hear the coolant flowing thru all the tubes. that has gotten to be really loud. but the car has been really taken care of since i got it. ive pretty much flushed and replaced everything needed to date
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I am hearing you say you cannot keep coolant "down" in the engine. After the coolant is filled up, you start the car, it is "warmed up" and you turn the heater on, does it blow hot air or just “luke warm” air? If it is “luke warm air”, I have had this problem with an older 3.8L 231. Let me know if this is the case (drove me nuts for about 11 months following, a complete engine rebuild). Four flushes and 3 thermostats later, had to replace the heads (yea after one year). The culprit turned out to be a "remain" water pump. The pump impeller was slipping and "fell" off of the back of the water pump and hit the ground, when I removed the water pump from the front of the engine. Yea, "the impeller separated from the pump body and rang like a bell when it hit the ground". All that trouble just to save $11.00 off a new pump (lifetime). The loose impeller was moving just enough water to look like it was pumping. The heater (core) problem was also solved permanently with the water pump replacement. Sounds crazy but that’s why I asked about the Heater Air temp. That’s the only reason I asked. Good luck.
 
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im not getting any warm air. my buddies know Grand Prixs like the back of there hands and he said its down to waterpump or head gasket. because my head gaskets leaking because my lights always coming on for low cooolant and not really much heat in the winter
 
dude ... did u burp the coolant system with the bleeder valves? sounds like thats ur prob... theres screws right by top hose that u loosen up to let air out.... basically loosen screw.. start car and let it warm up... add coolant through radiator as needed... repeat this a few times. to get all the air out of the system.
 
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