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97 GT Lockup Issue

C

Codester

New member
I have a 97 GT and it was in an accident so I bought it back from the insurance company for $200. It has other problems as well but this one came up lately.

My CEL came on and it was the 1870 code for transmission slipping. Well I have the 4T60E transmission in mine. I took it to a transmission shop and they said my lockup wasn't engaging and that I would experience lower mpg and higher RPMs on the highway. Well I haven't experienced either of these things. On the interstate I get around 2200 RPMs at 70 MPH and still get around 20-22 mpg city/highway average like always. It will cost $1000 to fix and $1700 for a rebuilt. Car has 186k on it and many other problems.

Is it ok to keep driving the car like this since most of my driving is city anyways? Junk it or get a new car?

I don't mind fixing the smaller problems to keep driving it but when it comes to engine or tranny problems I don't know if it is worth fixing anymore.
 


Well if your torque converter just won't lock, what he said is true. Lower mileage(higher rpms) as well as higher transmission temperatures. But 2,200 rpms at 70 mph is exactly what I get. But once you're on a flat stretch of highway and just cruising, lockup only lowers the rpms by about 100-175. Go on the freeway at 70, while just cruising, no going up or down hills or anything, keep your foot on the gas the same amount as you need to keep it at 70, and tap the brake pedal just enough to activate the brake lights or maybe until you feel the brakes apply just a tad. Right when you press the brake, you should see the rpms increase that 150 or so. if it doesnt, your torque converter never locked.
 
I know I could do it myself as I've had done several Eclipse engine and tranny swaps. I just don't know if it is worth it anymore. I found out my swaybar endlink is completely missing, and the bar is about to crack on the other side. My LCAs on both sides have cracked boots and probably need replaced completely. My starter doesn't even attempt to start my car at random times throughout the year and its fine the next day. And I need my lower motor mounts replaced.... And I didn't even mention about the body work that needs done. haha.

It's all about if it is worth it or not. My grandmother might be selling her 2001 Celica GT with 50k miles since she has to move and doesn't want to drive it. I might just take the 2k I got from insurance and get that.
 
Codester said:
I know I could do it myself as I've had done several Eclipse engine and tranny swaps. I just don't know if it is worth it anymore. I found out my swaybar endlink is completely missing, and the bar is about to crack on the other side. My LCAs on both sides have cracked boots and probably need replaced completely. My starter doesn't even attempt to start my car at random times throughout the year and its fine the next day. And I need my lower motor mounts replaced.... And I didn't even mention about the body work that needs done. haha.
Click to expand...

sway bar and links is $75 on ebay. two new entire lca's with bushings are $100 for both. Starter issue is common, new ones aren't too expensive. $20 for the motor mount, $15 for the trans mount on rockauto.
 
True. Those were the little things that I just found out about lately. The tranny is the thing that is making me think twice about keeping it or not. Dropping a tranny isn't that easy to do since it is a FWD. Plus I've never done serious work on this platform yet so it will take me longer than I need plus with Indiana weather I'm sure a few bolts are seized including the axle nuts and I don't have an impact.
 


The axle nuts can be broken loose with the spare tire on, and a breaker bar. But it's up to you. Unless you can figure out how to fix the issue while it's still in the car, I did that with my pcs.
 
Most places I have looked says I have to replace the valve body or the torque converter. Those both require removal. And with this many miles on it I'm sure it wouldn't be too far off until the clutch plates start to slip so I might as well do a whole rebuild. As for a junkyard tranny, Since I have the previous gen 4t60E would i have to find a 97 4t60e 6th gen tranny or would the older gen 5 grand prix trannys work?
 
Oh you can't just lower the subframe and trans like you can with the 4t65e?

And I don't know about compatibility.
 
I have no clue. Is the valve body and torque converter accessible without dropping the trans? I've had a class on auto transmissions in 06 but I forgot a lot of it and those were rwd transmissions as well. I just have 12 credit hours of college this semester and my tools and equipment is in a garage 20 miles away with no other car.
 
I know it must be removed to get to the torque converter. But I had my valve body/channel plate off with it still inside the car with the 4t65e. I assumed 4t60e would be nearly the same.

1u8s.jpg


Still in the car and valve body is no longer in the trans.
glij.jpg
 


Ok that helps but I'm not too sure what needs to be replaced exactly. The evaluation notes from the transmission shop from driving it and had a scanner connected just says "Trans has no lock-up" and the recommendation says "Needs R+R for estimate". It could be the valve body or just the torque converter.
 
The axle nuts don't even need touched when swapping a trans. None of the bolts will be hard to get out. It's a fairly easy job to do. My first one I did took about 5-6 hours.
 
So basically what he is saying is it probably isn't the torque converter but a worn out valve in the valve body? That was one of the two solutions but where can I find a decent valve body? Oreiley's has a a pioneer valve body for $200 and RockAuto has an ACDelco for $250 when I send back the core. Would that be it? Any gaskets or seals that I could have to order at the same time?
 
Yeah. Is the AcDelco new or remanufactured? You will also need the spacer plates that go in between the valve body and channel plate. This will also reveal check balls, so you will need to know the locations they go in, and have some tranny goo to assemble them when it's on its side.

I'd like someone who knows transmissions more than me to stop by as well, I've never separated the valve body from the channel plate before, I just pulled the channel plate as an assembly.
 


The checkballs aren't all that bad. For the cost of the reman unit, does it come with all the solenoids etc?

TEP goes through a valve body/spacer/channel plate for ~$350-400, includes all soleniods etc and it's literally ready to bolt on.
 
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