• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

4T65E rebuild questions

2000S80T6

New member
First post here - so hello all!

I'm rebuilding a 4T65EV/GT transmission in a Volvo S80 (MY2000) and was looking for some assistance with adjusting the clearances for the input clutch pack - I've sorted 2nd and 3rd (both at .050") but the input clutch pack is way off though and adding an extra steel removes all clearance - should I be concerned at the excess clearance? I could remove the clutch material off an old clutch plate and put that in like I did with 3rd...

Also, is it worthwhile increasing the 2nd / 3rd clutch feed orifices in the spacer plate (to say .090”?). I have the Transgo shift kit fitted but may mod the engine later (up to about 320bhp/320lbft).

Finally, I can't stretch to a new torque converter, so I wanted to flush out the one I have and get it as clean as possible. I saw a 'trick' on a US Horsepower/Muscle Car TV program where the guy drilled a small hole on the side the converter to drain the old fluid out and then put in a solid pop rivet to fill the hole - do you guys have any other suggestions? I've put in clean fluid and left it to drain upside down but it's a bit painful...

Cheers,

Chris
 


Congrats on tackling the rebuild on your own. Input clutch tolerances aren't of much concern because anytime the vehicle is placed into gear they are engaged, they are not a shifting clutch pack.

I'd have to look up the chart that I have to let you know what to open up the clutch feed orifices in the spacer plate for 2nd/3rd/4th clutches.

I have also seen the pop rivet truck done but wouldn't be my first choice. A lot of time local transmission shops will flush a converter for pretty cheap. If you can have the hole that was drilled tig welded shut rather than pop rivet. Torque converter sees a lot of internal pressure and having the opening welded shut would be a better option.
 
Thank you both for the suggestions and info - that's great! I'll think about the spacer plate hole sizes and see if the local transmission place can flush the torque converter.

I've come up with a way to stretch/shrink the teflon seals using PVC tubing which I've documented - but can't upload the PDF. The file is down to 875Kb but its exceeded my 142.3kb limit (funnily enough!) - is there a way I can get it uploaded?

Cheers,

Chris
 
Back
Top