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2000 GTP: Still Alive! New Trans?

Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Well, for the first time in over 5 months, I drove her today. I ran 3 test drives, first one was to warm the transmission up just to find out it was over a quart low. Once I warmed it up and filled it up completely, I took it for a few WOT runs. On the first test trip the highest Kr I had was 2.8*, 2nd run, none at all. It definitely pulls a lot harder than the L67, and just feels stronger overall. So the engine and transmission I am very excited and happy about.

The BAD news is I'm pretty sure my master cylinder is bad. I bled the brakes for about 5-6 hours overall, with no change. Pedal pumps up hard when the car is not running, but the second you start the car it sinks to the floor. I've bled them without the car running, with the car running, and with the ignition set to run. I also bled the M\C and ABS by cracking the lines (with the pedal pressed and car off), and I always followed the order RP, FD, RD, FP. Nothing has made any difference. It's not safe to drive on the road. I have a clear straight-away by my house, so that's how I took the test drives. I have the M\C pulled right now and pulled it the pistons out to check the O-rings and they seem fine. I cleaned it all back up, but I have to go buy the fitting tomorrow to bench bleed it before I try it again. Is there some secret to bleeding these cars that I don't know about? The entire system was run dry. I had bags over the ends of the houses when I took the calipers off, but the next morning they were all off the hoses on the ground. Still not sure how that happened. I'm thinking that tomorrow I'll probably end up buying a new M\C...
 


Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Just tried a reman master cylinder and had slightly better results, but still not safe at all. Oreilly's is ordering another 2 remans for me tomorrow. I hate brakes.
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

I think I figured out the problem, I need a Code reader (like a Tech II) or something similar to bleed my brakes. Gotta love new age technology. I have a buddy bringing a MT2500 over tomorrow so I'm hoping it'll do allow me to bleed my brakes. Originally I was just going to use it for a CASE learn.
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

A scanner isnt always needed, but if a large amount of air is trapped inside the ABS module lines thingy then having that cycle a few times may help.

And I bleed from RR, LR, RF, LF.
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

I've always been told since the ABS system is the way it is, a criss-cross bleeding pattern was needed. The system was totally dry, so there is a large amount of air in there. Ever since I bough the car the ABS light has been on so the ABS doesn't work, so I can't cycle it at all. Hopfully tomorrow I can find out what is wrong with the ABS system, on toip of doing the CASE learn an the bleeding brakes thing.

We've bled the brakes literally 8 hours, and gone through about 6 quarts...
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Well, I'm and idiot. I guess I'm from some alternate universe where air bubbles sink, because I have the calipers on the wrong sides, with the bleeders on the bottom. Honest mistake, sure...that's not what makes me an idiot. What makes me an idiot is the fact that I have bleed these brakes for 8 hours, cracked the bleeder countless times on each caliper, and never once noticed that they were on the bottom.

















I blame Obamacare, this is definitely Obamacare's fault.
 


Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Welp, flipped the calipers and all is well, I think. It's good enough to drive until I can try that whole ABS bleeding thing. It seems to be learning the new engine quite well, it's quite a bit quicker than it was yesterday.

If the ABS light is on, that means that the car will not have ABS at all, correct?
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

I've driven it about 20-30 miles now with no issues...other than having to delete the secondary 02 sensor codes. Ever since that first day I haven't had any knock retard either. As far as Boost is concerned, the highest I have seen yet is 6 PSI. I am going to go ahead and get a 180* thermostat to drop in, it get awfully hot under the hood after some driving, temp is normally 200-210* on Torque Pro.
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

If the ABS light is on then the ABS system will not funtion, normal brakes will, ABS will not. Nice job on the car, looking good and hope you get many years of flawless service
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Booba5185 said:
I've driven it about 20-30 miles now with no issues...other than having to delete the secondary 02 sensor codes. Ever since that first day I haven't had any knock retard either. As far as Boost is concerned, the highest I have seen yet is 6 PSI. I am going to go ahead and get a 180* thermostat to drop in, it get awfully hot under the hood after some driving, temp is normally 200-210* on Torque Pro.
Click to expand...


Thats not hot, the car prefers to run at 195-200, hence why they come with a 195 thermostat.

Its also called a heaton for a reason, things will stay hot for many hours after you stop driving.
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

OKey Dokey, I'll leave it be. I guess if I start getting some Kr or the temp hovers around 220 I'll looks into a colder T-Stat? What do you think?

Also, I've noticed that Torque Pros Coolant temperature is about 8 degrees cooler than the gauge.
 


Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

If the temp ever rises that much looking into a cooling system problem.

Like low flow, air in the system, fans not working or a faulty thermostat. I've always ran a 195 and never see temp go past 210ish sitting in heavy traffic on the hottest days. Its always around 195-200.

The KR won't come from the engine temp being near 200-210, likely something else is the cause.
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Trip to Springfield went well today, I had 1.8* of Kr on a pretty good incline before it downshifted, then all was well. I did show 4.7* once when I was passing some one, but I'm pretty sure it was false. When I went to pass I gave it enough gas to down shift and it actually up and pulled pretty hard, I was actually impressed...until I saw 4.7* on Torque Pro. If it happens again I'll investigate further, but in ~150 miles on the engine that's the only time it's happened, the highest I have had before this was 1.8*, then .8*, and .7*, all of which were on a steep incline and the transmission hadn't downshifted yet. Transmission temperature never broke 200* the entire trip, so looks like I don't need a cooler after all, everything in the transmission area is fantastic, for now.

As far as gas mileage? I'm getting mid 20s, but about 2/3 of that was highway, and I did have some fun here and there. I'll be filling it up and calculating mileage the correct way in a week or so.

Ever since I bought the car I thought it had a bad blower module (not a resistor since I have automatic climate control), since the fan doesn't blow very hard. I picked up a JY replacement for $10, but actually didn't need it because hen I pulled the blower motor to get to the module, I saw that the blower motor wires were corroded. I pulled the connectors out of the plug, cleaned them up, and soldered them back together. I also cleaned the squirrel cage and oiled the bearing while it was out, and reassembled it all. Seems to work quite a bit better and now I have much more precise fan control, the fan only seemed to do anything on full blast or close to it before, but now there's more "variety."

Since I worked on the blower motor I had an itch to fix something else, so I pulled the radio and the DIC. The DIC had a loose connection and a light would flicker every so often, and the radio's screen would have tourettes every so often. I took both apart, cleaned all connections, cleaned the faces up real nice and everything just to have the radio display light bulb blow out, and all but 1 of the bulbs in the DIC blow out. I expected the 1 bulb that flickers all the time to be bad, but not the rest. Tomorrow I'll head to Oreilly's and see if they don't have any replacements, if not I'll go to Radioshack on Monday and make some. Good news about the radio is it seems the display is working correctly...whenever I shine my flashlight on it, so no more tourettes. Once this fiasco is all done, I have some coax Infinity Kappas to install in the front doors. They are temporary, because I'd MUCH rather have components.

I'll get some pictures of it all tomorrow...
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Lazy day, but I did get some stuff done. I went to Oreillys and bought some new lights for the DIC, so it's all back together and working right. I also put the head unit back together and installed it temporarily until I buy a bulb at radio shack tomorrow. I cleaned every connection inside the head unit and DAMN what a difference, it sounds 10x better than it did before. I still have plans for a stereo, but this is pretty impressive for what it is.

After that I went to my buddy's house and did the CASE learn, it all went well, but I don't really notice a difference. This is one of the smoothest idling cars I've seen in a long time, so I wasn't expecting the CASE learn to do much if anything. I know that procedure is to have it done, so now I have the peace of mind knowing its done, and done right. After that was done, I started pulling the ABS data while I took it around the block and discovered that my right 2 wheel bearing speed sensors aren't working at all. This is good because I found something wrong, and that gives me an area to troubleshoot. I'll start by using my multi-meter to check my bearings, then start checking connections back to the ABS module.

Before all that I'm giving it a good wash and wax and a good interior cleaning. I cleaned the faces over the DIC and head unit, so they look pretty good. Here's a pic of the lights working in the DIC and the lack of light in the stereo:
p1040896.jpg

^^I also need to find some replacement buttons for the fan control on my climate controls.
Here's what I mean about the bath, it has a protective layer of dirt on it right now:
p1040894.jpg

And a video of the engine running:
P1040897 - YouTube
 
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Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Nice.. So the case relearn is something that is done a new motor install or what? Jus curious lol
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Whenever you change anything that has to do with the crank position sensor. The crank itself, the crank position sensor, harmonic balancer, or ECM itself. It basically realigns the ECM to the engine.
 


Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

I must be going insane or something, I have interior lights, but when I pull it apart to replace the 1 or 2 bulbs that are blown, they are all blown. I bought the 2 bulbs Radioshack had and had hem order 4 more for me, I need them all. On the plus side, I installed my Infinity Kappa's I had laying around in my front doors. These are the only speakers I've ever seen with no magnet, it's all electromagnetic. Stock was 5.25" and these are 6.5" so I had to do a little modifying, but nothing major. I also soldered the stock tweeter wire onto the back of the Kappas so I can use the stock tweeters in series with the Kappas. We'll see how the stock head unit holds up, remember, this is only temporary until I get some Kappa Perfect components. The stereo sounds a heck of a lot better than it did with the stock fronts, I already have some Kenwoods in the rear. Pics:
p1040902.jpg


p1040904.jpg
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

Trip to Springfield went well today, I had 1.8* of Kr on a pretty good incline before it downshifted, then all was well. I did show 4.7* once when I was passing some one, but I'm pretty sure it was false. When I went to pass I gave it enough gas to down shift and it actually up and pulled pretty hard, I was actually impressed...until I saw 4.7* on Torque Pro. If it happens again I'll investigate further, but in ~150 miles on the engine that's the only time it's happened, the highest I have had before this was 1.8*, then .8*, and .7*, all of which were on a steep incline and the transmission hadn't downshifted yet.
Click to expand...

Because stock manifolds. You arent getting enough KR to even worry about anything, even those spikes shouldnt worry you as the car is nearly stock, the gen v with stock pulley and 3in dp arent huge mods. The car would see more KR without the 3in dp and even then its normal for a stock car.
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

I have a whole climate control system like yours for sale if your interested PM me
 
Re: 2000 GTP...and so it begins...(LOTS of PICS)

gtpeddie said:
I have a whole climate control system like yours for sale if your interested PM me
Click to expand...
I've been watching the for sale section, but I have to hold onto the funds until after the baby comes. Once I can spend some money I'll PM you for sure.

As far as the KR, I'm not worried about it, but I know the lower the better. Next step will be a ECM of some sorts, like this http://www.grandprixforums.net/fs-modified-pcms-80167.html . After than will be a set of headers and maybe a pulley drop to 3.4" or so. Thats after I replace (and upgrade in the process) the suspension, like struts, sway bars, etc. Probably set up a sub of some sorts between now and then.
 
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