BrandonHall10
Solving problems
Let the blower run for a few seconds after you shut the AC off. That will dry (most of) the condensation off the evaporator. Should reduce the odor next time you run the AC.
06 GT Special Edition
- Thread starter Xerosiv
- Start date
Let the blower run for a few seconds after you shut the AC off. That will dry (most of) the condensation off the evaporator. Should reduce the odor next time you run the AC.
Xerosiv
New member
Result from the coolant flush is noticeable. Went from halfway past the 3rd tick to sitting on the 3rd tick. Trans seems to run a little cooler too. The heater core was almost clogged with whatever we flushed out, so glad that's done.
And some new pics, cus, when he hand washes her, she shines!
And some new pics, cus, when he hand washes her, she shines!
Xerosiv
New member
Weird. Figured out what keeps happening to my photos. If I manually add them from my phone to the shared album on Google, the links work, but only until my phone auto-backups. Then it replaces the photo and gives it a new link.. :th_shakinghead1:
Here's the missing photos.. again..
Here's the missing photos.. again..
Xerosiv
New member
Ordered a tensioner pulley from ebay, was cheap and free shipping; they sent the idler for the sc instead ordered Dayco 89007 and got 89006. Went ahead and just put it on, whatever, that one didn't feel very smooth either. hah
Ordered another tensioner from Pep Boys on Monday, said it would be available next day. It's Friday, and they still don't have it every day this week they have told me 'tomorrow'.
SO.. I picked one up from O'Reilly yesterday for $10 more than the Pep Boys one, that one was definitely not spinning freely, but still wasn't the really noisy pulley.
The worst noise was coming from the alternator. Lucky for me, we had a spare in the garage from the compg. Put the drive belt back on, no noise. Woohoo!
Put the SC belt back on and... there's still another chirp. :th_doh:
Ordered another smooth and a ribbed, just gonna do all the idler and tensioner pulleys and be done with it.
Hopefully, after that, nothing else in there is making noise. :th_laugh-lol1:
Now.. if the spo spoiler we purchased from warstyker will just get here.. stupid usps.. it was an hour away on Monday, sat there all week and was supposed to be delivered yesterday, but now just says ' Arriving Late' and that 'It is currently in transit to the next facility.' :th_snail:
Hopefully, it shows up today. Then we can address having it painted for installation!
Ordered another tensioner from Pep Boys on Monday, said it would be available next day. It's Friday, and they still don't have it every day this week they have told me 'tomorrow'.
SO.. I picked one up from O'Reilly yesterday for $10 more than the Pep Boys one, that one was definitely not spinning freely, but still wasn't the really noisy pulley.
The worst noise was coming from the alternator. Lucky for me, we had a spare in the garage from the compg. Put the drive belt back on, no noise. Woohoo!
Put the SC belt back on and... there's still another chirp. :th_doh:
Ordered another smooth and a ribbed, just gonna do all the idler and tensioner pulleys and be done with it.
Hopefully, after that, nothing else in there is making noise. :th_laugh-lol1:
Now.. if the spo spoiler we purchased from warstyker will just get here.. stupid usps.. it was an hour away on Monday, sat there all week and was supposed to be delivered yesterday, but now just says ' Arriving Late' and that 'It is currently in transit to the next facility.' :th_snail:
Hopefully, it shows up today. Then we can address having it painted for installation!
Xerosiv
New member
SPO spoiler finally arrived after USPS hid it in a dark corner for a week.. (It was 'in transit to the next facility' for a week, from less than an hour away, we thought it was lost for sure.)
Wondering if we should wrap it or have it painted to match the car..? We have 0 experience with wrapping, but if it wont look tacky, might give it a try..
Couple chips, but looks as expected. Thanks, warstryker!
Pulleys from RA were supposed to be here yesterday too, but the postman dropped it in a neighborhood lock box that we don't have access to. :th_eyesrolling: He's supposed to be bringing it today. Alternator bearings should also be here today.
Ready to get her back out of the garage! :driving:
Wondering if we should wrap it or have it painted to match the car..? We have 0 experience with wrapping, but if it wont look tacky, might give it a try..
Couple chips, but looks as expected. Thanks, warstryker!
Pulleys from RA were supposed to be here yesterday too, but the postman dropped it in a neighborhood lock box that we don't have access to. :th_eyesrolling: He's supposed to be bringing it today. Alternator bearings should also be here today.
Ready to get her back out of the garage! :driving:
Xerosiv
New member
$20 to fix the alternator bearings and she is quiet now. Was our first time opening an alternator; It's pretty simple inside, only takes about 10 minutes to replace the bearings once the alternator is off the car. Sure beats the cost of a new alternator!
This is the bearing kit for a Bosch, says it is for a BMW, but it is a perfect match/fit for the ones off the grand prix.
Specs for bearings and toler
Alternator Bearings and Tolerance Cap/Ring
I also need a new pulley for our spare, had an oppsie and it got dropped on the pulley. :th_embarassed: Destroyed the pulley.. lol
I will add a part number for that if we find one that fits. Though, we might end up just grabbing one off a jy car.
This is the bearing kit for a Bosch, says it is for a BMW, but it is a perfect match/fit for the ones off the grand prix.
Specs for bearings and toler
Alternator Bearings and Tolerance Cap/Ring
- NTN Bearing 53507 17x35x10mm 6003-2RS
- NTN Bearing 54700 17x47x14mm 6303-2RS
- Plastic Bearing Tolerance Ring, Bearing Tolerance Ring, 35mm ID, 38mm OD, 50.2mm W Bosch F-00M-146-900 Other, 46-91553
I also need a new pulley for our spare, had an oppsie and it got dropped on the pulley. :th_embarassed: Destroyed the pulley.. lol
I will add a part number for that if we find one that fits. Though, we might end up just grabbing one off a jy car.
Xerosiv
New member
What is that noise..
What is that noise..
High pitched whistle, starts as soon as the car starts, gets faster/louder with acceleration, don't really hear it at idle after car gets warmed up, but can definitely hear it when accelerating.
All idlers and tensioners have been replaced, alternator has new bearings, new belts, pcv valve was changed..
Could it be a vacuum leak? I get about 2 bars short of max boost, if it tries to go past there on the DIC it will flicker, wont stay at max.
LIMs are next for this car; I suppose we will find any leaks when we take the top of the motor apart.. Just hoping it's something simple.
What is that noise..
High pitched whistle, starts as soon as the car starts, gets faster/louder with acceleration, don't really hear it at idle after car gets warmed up, but can definitely hear it when accelerating.
All idlers and tensioners have been replaced, alternator has new bearings, new belts, pcv valve was changed..
Could it be a vacuum leak? I get about 2 bars short of max boost, if it tries to go past there on the DIC it will flicker, wont stay at max.
LIMs are next for this car; I suppose we will find any leaks when we take the top of the motor apart.. Just hoping it's something simple.
Xerosiv
New member
Haven't posted anything in a while; we've been busy between 2 kids, taking the top of the motor apart, and my grandfather passing..
What we've been up to with the GP:
Took the top of the motor apart for LIMs and found that the previous owner had done them semi recently. They were metal felpro gaskets, but went ahead and used the new ACDelco's we bought anyway. There was one spot that looked like it might have been an issue starting, but don't think they were leaking yet. However, there was still a concerning amount of coolant on the valve cover. Looked a little deeper, and found the coolant bypass gasket was completely destroyed, not sure what happened there..
We also took the front cover off and found the timing cover gasket had failed and was leaking. You can see where the gasket was blown out here.
We also went ahead and threw a new water pump on for good measure since we were in there.
One boot on a vacuum harness was cracked, not sure if it was enough to cause a problem or not, but going to fix that before we get it all back together.
Hopefully, that is all the leaks!
Now to put the gp back together, get it out of the garage, and on to changing the subframe bushings on the Lesabre I am giving my old man. 72k miles, that car should last him a long time!
I am ready for our garage to not have any projects in it, it's been a revolving 3800 shop since January. :th_laugh-lol3:
Though, speaking of projects, I am inheriting my grandfather's 1990 F250. I know nothing about this platform, so this should be a fun restoration. I think it has 400k+ miles on it (real mileage unknown due to max of 99,999 on the odometer, it's rolled at least 4 times though). Most issues are cosmetic, but I am sure the suspension is toast and who knows what we will find when we get in there. My grandfather only fixed things on it if they were completely broken, and only known maintenance was very timely oil changes.
What we've been up to with the GP:
Took the top of the motor apart for LIMs and found that the previous owner had done them semi recently. They were metal felpro gaskets, but went ahead and used the new ACDelco's we bought anyway. There was one spot that looked like it might have been an issue starting, but don't think they were leaking yet. However, there was still a concerning amount of coolant on the valve cover. Looked a little deeper, and found the coolant bypass gasket was completely destroyed, not sure what happened there..
We also took the front cover off and found the timing cover gasket had failed and was leaking. You can see where the gasket was blown out here.
We also went ahead and threw a new water pump on for good measure since we were in there.
One boot on a vacuum harness was cracked, not sure if it was enough to cause a problem or not, but going to fix that before we get it all back together.
Hopefully, that is all the leaks!
Now to put the gp back together, get it out of the garage, and on to changing the subframe bushings on the Lesabre I am giving my old man. 72k miles, that car should last him a long time!
I am ready for our garage to not have any projects in it, it's been a revolving 3800 shop since January. :th_laugh-lol3:
Though, speaking of projects, I am inheriting my grandfather's 1990 F250. I know nothing about this platform, so this should be a fun restoration. I think it has 400k+ miles on it (real mileage unknown due to max of 99,999 on the odometer, it's rolled at least 4 times though). Most issues are cosmetic, but I am sure the suspension is toast and who knows what we will find when we get in there. My grandfather only fixed things on it if they were completely broken, and only known maintenance was very timely oil changes.
ThatOldCarSmell
New member
Though, speaking of projects, I am inheriting my grandfather's 1990 F250. I know nothing about this platform, so this should be a fun restoration. I think it has 400k+ miles on it (real mileage unknown due to max of 99,999 on the odometer, it's rolled at least 4 times though). Most issues are cosmetic, but I am sure the suspension is toast and who knows what we will find when we get in there. My grandfather only fixed things on it if they were completely broken, and only known maintenance was very timely oil changes.
I'll say this much for the truck, I'm amazed that the body bushings haven't given up yet. Every pickup I see of around that vintage or older, the body mounts are all rotted, and the bed always rests a little lower at the front than the back of the cab does, making it look like the truck is starting to fold lol. this one looks pretty darn straight for the age and mileage! maybe he replaced those too.
Xerosiv
New member
I think being a Texas truck, it has been spared it from a lot of rotting issues. I will definitely take a look at that though, there is a slight sag, so probably on their way out.
Biggest concern right now is there is an issue with the flooring, seats feel.. less than secured.. I wouldn't trust them to hold in me the truck in the event of a crash. Lol
I found new flooring panels can be purchased, so I am probably going to start with that once I get the truck and get going on it.
ThatOldCarSmell
New member
Just my .02 on the flooring panels, and from experience with the 7 or so k5's that I've owned over the years, save your money on the patch panels and get something made locally (if there is someone who has the stuff to work sheet metal like that). The patch panels are usually super thin- gauged, and I don't know they feel any better than rotten ones lol. That's all assuming you want to keep the truck & use it for a while. The best replacement floor pans I ever had in a truck were diamond plate that someone had cut, bent and welded in, and then lined the undercarriage well after the repair. that floor NEVER flexed, no matter what I was driving over (This guy).
I'm sorry to hear that your Grandpa passed away. That's a tough one...
What he did leave you is a nice looking OBS Ford truck. Throw some new black paint on it, replace the missing moulding on the drivers side, fix the floor as needed and rock it. Even has the chrome ventshades on it still. Also do the normal replacement of all fluids since you don't know the last time they were done (if ever). In that shape that truck should last for many more years.
Is it a 5-speed? 4x4? My guess is that it's a 351W engine in there. And yea, I hate the old Ford 5-digit Odo's.
What he did leave you is a nice looking OBS Ford truck. Throw some new black paint on it, replace the missing moulding on the drivers side, fix the floor as needed and rock it. Even has the chrome ventshades on it still. Also do the normal replacement of all fluids since you don't know the last time they were done (if ever). In that shape that truck should last for many more years.
Is it a 5-speed? 4x4? My guess is that it's a 351W engine in there. And yea, I hate the old Ford 5-digit Odo's.
Xerosiv
New member
Thanks for the sympathy, 2020 took my Mom (cancer) and Grandpa, so it has been a rough year for us.
I'm excited to get it road worthy and just keep it as a reminder of him. I doubt I will drive it a ton, but will be well loved for sure.
It does have the 351W, I am not sure on the transmission other than it is 2wd. I will be running the VIN through compnine later in the week to see what I can find out on all the options he had on it.
He drove semi for most his working life, and I know he paid extra for a special towing package when he bought it new so he could pull whatever he wanted with it. Dad said they pulled a large excavator with it about 20 years ago with no issues when they were digging to lay a foundation for a trailer.
In other news -
Got the GP all put back together, she's running good, but the vacuum harness had some cracked connectors (T and the straight end). We tried replacing the straight end with a Dorman Help connector, but it blew out right away. :th_shakinghead1:
The homemade T held up tho. Lol..
I had hoped that it would last until we got a new harness from GM. Oh, well. Guess I'll drive the car again next week.
Hurricane87
New member
I have no idea why you put the less attractive wheels on it, but ultimately it doesn't matter, because whatever those first ones were, they were NOT SE wheels. These are:
2006 Pontiac Grand Prix - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...
2006 Pontiac Grand Prix - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...
Xerosiv
New member
Those are 40th Edition wheels off a 6th gen, moron. Thanks for looking.
Xerosiv
New member
New vacuum harness is in, GP will be out of the garage tonight!
I don't usually promote buying from the stealership, BUT, new vacuum harness was $19.20. Cheapest, including shipping, online was $26, some were closer to $40-50. :th_wtf:
In this case, dealership was cheapest option.
While we were waiting on that harness, we put the old cluster from the compg in. Still love the view! (Ignore CEL, it is for the vac leak)
I don't usually promote buying from the stealership, BUT, new vacuum harness was $19.20. Cheapest, including shipping, online was $26, some were closer to $40-50. :th_wtf:
In this case, dealership was cheapest option.
While we were waiting on that harness, we put the old cluster from the compg in. Still love the view! (Ignore CEL, it is for the vac leak)