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05 Impala keep warping rotors



I do alot of highway driving that sometimes results in hard braking when I hit rush hour, so hoping these will cool off better

 
I blame cheap parts most of the time. You can get rotors with 1 or 3 year warranty, they are still made in China but do seem to have better quality.
 


sseilmnop said:
Sorry, never had much problem with 3 year warranty rotors.
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I mean the new ones I want to buy have a 3 year warranty.
dsmuts said:
Are you sure they are warped?
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Ya the steering wheel shakes and brake pedal pulses when I hit the brakes, really bad at 60mph+ had the same problem with the old set also and when I changed them it was perfect for 6 months or so.
when I originally changed them a year ago my cousin checked the calipers and everything and all was good, Im 99% its my fault buying the cheapest rotors napa store had
 
Many Chinese rotors do not have the same quality as OEM rotors. Are you going through a proper break-in procedure? Drive like Hell, apply th brakes and get them hot. Gently at first and then progressively harder with each successive stop. Do this several times without stopping or hitting any puddles of water. Let them cool naturally before stopping the car. Do not stop and let the pads sit against the hot brakes while doing this.

I have had great luck with the Brakemotive rotors sold on E-bay. The owner is a great guy. I've used these on my 1995 Vette, My 1995 Impala, my old 2003 Monte Carlo. The Vette sees some track days and I did have one Monte rotor warp after about 9 months or maybe around 90,000 miles. I called him and told him that one front rotor had warped. He sent me two new front rotors, a new set of ceramic pads and didn't charge me a nickel. No shipping, no charges. They are also zinc plated which resists rust on the cooling fins and hub better than most. The price, quality and service can't be beat.

If I'm allowed, here's the link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-FRONT-2-R...olet|Model:Impala&hash=item43c59392aa&vxp=mtr
 


ITHURTZ said:
Ill bet you $1,000 you didnt warp the rotors. Its virtually impossible, if you ever warped a rotor you sure as hell wouldnt feel throbbing on braking only. Lets say your going 55 and the light turns yellow and their is a red light camera. Your forced to stop so you gotta jab the breaks. Now most people hit the breaks and once they stop they dont "release" that pressure. So now those hot rotors and pads are sitting in one spot all hotty hot. When you release the peddle and go chances are you left some brake pad material on the rotor nice and baked on. Now each time you stop more and more pad material gets built up and walla pulse pulse. When at a stand still no more pressure than just to hold the car from moving is needed, so if you just did a hard brake when you stop ease off the peddle. Or what I do is stop shorter than the line and slowly roll forward up to the line to get away from that hot spot and allow atleast some cooling.


Put that rotor on a lathe I bet it spins true and smooth.
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also, napa isn't exactly what I would call cheep. Mabe a stupid question but are you torquing your wheels properly? 100ft lbs in a star pattern.
 
Try doing a brake scrub to clean them up. My wifes grand am used to shake like hell and I ran it up to 100 or so and slammed on the brakes as hard as i could but didn't completely stop then drove for about 5-10 miles without stopping to let them cool then did that one more time and it was fine.
 
Those rotors are not going to cool any better. In fact having all those holes actually decreases cooling and are prone to cracking. Those rotors are just to "look pretty."

Also as smoke quoted ITHURTZ post I bet your rotors are not warped. You have a build up of material that is causing your problems. Cheap pads will cause this as will riding the brakes.
 
smoke14 said:
also, napa isn't exactly what I would call cheep. Mabe a stupid question but are you torquing your wheels properly? 100ft lbs in a star pattern.
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Yes I only do 100ft lbs in a star pattern, and what you qouted he says
"if you ever warped a rotor you sure as hell wouldnt feel throbbing on braking only. "

I feel it in my steering also really bad it shakes horribly
 
dsmuts said:
Try doing a brake scrub to clean them up. My wifes grand am used to shake like hell and I ran it up to 100 or so and slammed on the brakes as hard as i could but didn't completely stop then drove for about 5-10 miles without stopping to let them cool then did that one more time and it was fine.
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I'll try that tomorrow, 100 mph or kmh?
 


What that if you ever warped a rotor comment means if that if a rotor was truely warped it would shake your whole car while driving, not just braking.
 
Hmmm. It shakes when I lightly apply brakes but not just cruising...
Gonna try dsmuts suggestion but idk if he ment mph or kmh..
 
Those rotors are not going to cool any better. In fact having all those holes actually decreases cooling and are prone to cracking. Those rotors are just to "look pretty."
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Partly true and partly false statement there. I never said they cool better. I commented on the performance and warranty claim that I had.The true part is that the holes in cross drilled rotors can cause cracking. I've ran these drilled and slotted rotors for years with no problems. NASCAR, Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari, Lamborghini and every other supercar manufacturer uses at least slotted rotors and most of them have holes in them. Some are drilled and others have the holes cast into them during the casting process to not create a weak area. . Even though resins that hold pad materials together are better than ever outgassing still occurs. Slots give the gasses somewhere to go. The slots also tend to give water an escape route in inclement weather. Brake fade is still an issue but I forgot that this is a Grand Prix forum.

I track my Corvette and use these rotors because I'm a late braking fanatic. I've had my Impala SS on road courses and the braking required has got to be amazing for a 4300 pound pig like that. For high performance use and on high performance cars many people think that there are advantages to drilled slotted rotors. I'm quite certain that NASCAR doesn't care about the brakes "looking pretty". They want to brake as late as possible and have the car slow down when applying the brakes. I raced SCCA and IMSA for about 20 years with Triumph Spitfires, TR-250's and finally a Porsche 911. Slotted rotors worked well and solid rotors would not cool as fast and tended to fade a whole lot more. I can't speak for Grand Prix's because I'm new to mine but for higher performance cars and driving styles I, personally" prefer drilled or at least slotted rotors.
 
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