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'00 Impala LS - 5 Speed and Supercharged



I'll admit that's a lot to digest, but great info nonetheless. Lots of good info in this thread to look back to, I appreciate it.

I'm definetly dealing with multiple issues here.

Replaced the fuel pump with a brand new AC Delco pump for a 2000 Impala. Kind of ticked because I ended up with another venturi canister even though Impalas never came with one (AFAIK) so the listing was incorrect. I put it in anyways just to diagnose my fueling issues and now I have good fuel pressure and can verify everything else is working properly. Replaced the fuel line from the filter to the fuel log. It had 3 of those brass repair barbs in it so this should definetly help. If I end up needing more fuel on the top end I will upgrade the pump but at least this is giving me good pressure at idle. Adjusted the FPR so it reads 52 at 0 bar. Seems to be rising with boost and decreasing with vacuum as it should.

This brought me to the next issue. Map is only reading ~90kpa at idle. In the past I have sprayed carb cleaner around the engine to try to narrow down vacuum leaks but that is not an option for me as everything is freshly painted. So I came up with this:

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Found a massive leak on the #5 injector. That was by far the biggest leak and probably most of the problem. Second biggest leak was at a defective vacuum T. And there was a small leak between the SC and IC, and one between the IC and LIM. For the record, Ed's intercooler came pre-sealed and did not have one leak, it is a very high quality product, and I don't suspect it to be causing the leak on the outer sealing surfaces. I pulled everything back apart, cleaned up the sealing surfaces even better this time, and that's where I left off today. Excited to finally be getting all the bugs worked out. Fingers crossed that it seals on my second attempt.
 
Oh snap, I never posted the pics of the wheels and tires!

Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Position. 245/45/18 on stripped and polished 08 SS wheels.

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Also replaced the lower heim joints on my front engine mounts with poly bushings. Dampened it quite nicely but does not allow any movement. Not as worried about the vibrations fatiguing the metal.

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4" OD PVC cap (for a n*) with a hole drilled for a valve stem. Clamp it in a coupler to the tb. Have a buddy put just a few psi onto it and spray soapy water around the areas where there may be a leak and look for bubbles.
 


I did a redneck version of that, but as a smoke test. Get a nitrile glove and stretch it over the TB, pull the brake booster hose from the booster with the check valve attached, attach a clean hose to the check valve, spark up smoke device of your choice, and blow in the clean hose. After about 2 or 3 times of blowing smoke in you'll see the leak if you have one.
 
Took the supercharger, intercooler core, and fuel logs back off to try to seal up the leaks. Cleaned up everything real nice, applied some ultra gray rtv, and put it all back together. That was on Friday, letting everything set up until later today before I check for leaks again and hopefully start it up.

I ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JU6XL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if I still have leaks I will be making gaskets out of it. I'd rather have a reusable gasket anyways.


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Jim came over yesterday and helped me rewire all of my gauges. Now they are on a harness with a plug so I don't have to unplug everything individually when I take it apart. Somehow my fuel pressure gauge got broken in the process. We verified it has power and ground but we cannot get it to turn on.

Plan on doing the same for the switches on the side of my center console today.

Getting real close to the meet, glad I finished the big build early so I could have time to sort out all this little crap.

I'll try to take it out and get some good pictures today if the intercooler re-seal worked.
 


Map is reading 4.6 in/hg but my boost gauge says about 11in/hg. Interesting that they are so far different, but I'm thinking either way I still have a vacuum leak?
 
Well, I think I may have rod knock now? Was out tuning and did a pull to 6400ish rpm with no knock. Did another and had a blip of kr that was 5.4 when I first dipped in to the throttle but nothing else up to 6400 rpm again and now it is knocking and is showing a lot of kr. I've never heard rod knock in person before so I don't know. I pulled the plugs and all looked fine, none were smashed. Took the SC belt off, still knocks. Going to drain the oil and check for metallic flakes next. I don't think its a chipped piston, maybe an rpm related failure? Possible that it's the harmonic bancer? Collapsed lifter? It still has great oil pressure and never lost pressure.

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Positive nothing is hitting the headers, ect. didn't you do some sort of custom mounts for the engine. Just thinking if false. Is it knocking at idle?
 
Post a video, make sure to rev it and hold it at like 2k that will tell us if it's bottom end related


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


No chipped pistons. No noticable valvetrain damage.

Shavings in the oil.

Rod or main bearing.

Thinking it may have starved for oil, one of those pulls was going around a pretty good corner at high speed and high rpm.


Since I posted this afternoon, I dropped the whole subframe out of the car with motor and trans, stripped the old motor down to the short block, and stripped my spare l67 down to the short block. Hoping to hear it run with the new bottom end tomorrow.
 
Time to run a longer filter and more oil.

I run 5 quarts with the small filter anyway, step it up to 5.25 with a longer filter. Still a good amount without allowing the crank to slap the oil.
 
outonthetiles said:
No chipped pistons. No noticable valvetrain damage.

Shavings in the oil.

Rod or main bearing.

Thinking it may have starved for oil, one of those pulls was going around a pretty good corner at high speed and high rpm.


Since I posted this afternoon, I dropped the whole subframe out of the car with motor and trans, stripped the old motor down to the short block, and stripped my spare l67 down to the short block. Hoping to hear it run with the new bottom end tomorrow.
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That's what I'm talking about! Sorry to hear about the Imp, but glad you got it sorted already!
 
Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
Time to run a longer filter and more oil.

I run 5 quarts with the small filter anyway, step it up to 5.25 with a longer filter. Still a good amount without allowing the crank to slap the oil.
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Time for baffles in the oil pan and possibly an accusump in the future.

I have an oil relocation kit and run a huge filter, much bigger than you can fit in the stock location and I do slightly overfill it.


Old short block is completely disassembled. Rod bearing on cyl 5 was spun pretty good. All the bearings looked pretty rough though so I'd imagine that this wasn't the first time it has been starved.

L67 short block is almost ready to be assembled. Spent a good part of the day fabricating baffles for the oil pan. Almost done with that.

Pictures when I have more time..
 
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