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porting blower confusion / how the eff do i do it

Doug 97 gtp

New member
Ive been reading on how to port your blower and it seems that some people port it to much and loose power and some people do it just right. now i plan on porting my own blower but im a little scared that i will mess up i would like to know if anyone has a pic of a perfectly ported blower.my car is stock and i have to intake manafold gaskets and if i have the blower off might as well port it. Also what about the holes for the snout bolts what should be done about those? Any help will be great.
 
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do you have any good refrence photos of the final port. my car is stock but i figured if i had the sc off might as well port it a little and i might polish the snout
 


Just make the inlet look all shiny and stuff grind down the casting marks then use a sanding flapper wheel and smooth it all out.
 
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Hope this helps my first time porting and came out pretty good imo i ported the inlet and lim as well to a smooth finish just incase you decide to port the lim wich would be great as well as tapping the coolant passeges and opening up the coolant passeges on the back of the lim to help cool down the rear head. i know its a lot of pics but imo i think everything is easier to do or understand with pictures.
 


Prove to me that not touching the outlet doesn't do anything, Mr. Stock Thermostat for modded cars people...
 

This is how I know someones using tapatalk.

Prove to me that not touching the outlet doesn't do anything, Mr. Stock Thermostat for modded cars people.

Prove to you that your way is better?

No thanks.

We should just let steig test some stock M90's and some "crazy port" M90's and a reasonable port M90. Not that steig or alky would do any of us a favour after that thread.
 
No thanks because a ported outlet flows better for one.

Allows the blower temp to drop.

Less parasitic loss from the temperature drop.

But we could be here all day and the gains are there but you won't really notice anything...but it won't hurt to do it.

Alky did PM me, but...I didn't reply...so, let's build a supercharger dyno out of cardboard, elmers glue, and popsickle sticks.

Seems relevant.
 
No thanks because a ported outlet flows better for one.

Based on what?

Allows the blower temp to drop.

Based on what? More in the same space means it'll heat up more. Gas laws can't be ignored.

Less parasitic loss from the temperature drop.

But you said it flows more, which means it costs more power to turn the blower.

But we could be here all day and the gains are there but you won't really notice anything...but it won't hurt to do it.

How so? If you reduce flow, that does hurt performance. If all you do is reduce flow, then yes, you can run a smaller pulley with the same flow mods.

But its not productive as the blower spins faster it uses more power to turn it. Only benefit is noise.

Alky did PM me, but...I didn't reply...so, let's build a supercharger dyno out of cardboard, elmers glue, and popsickle sticks.

Seems relevant.

Blue, y u no reply?

I can think of a few ways to make a blower test bench. The only issue would be it would only be relative, not absolute. But thats like any dyno or flow bench in the history of cars. :th_jester:
 


Based on what?

Common Sense.



Based on what?

Less restriction on the air being pushed out from the rotors, so...more common sense.



But you said it flows more, which means it costs more power to turn the blower

I didn't say it flows "more" I said it flows "better"...more efficiently than a stock unit. There wouldn't be anymore turning or more "cost of power" because the pulley size isn't changing. So, adding more common sense.

How so? If you reduce flow, that does hurt performance. If all you do is reduce flow, then yes, you can run a smaller pulley with the same flow mods.

Sure, but then you're back to square one with the heat and innefficiency issues. And if the car knocks (OH HEY, ALL STOCK CARS DO THAT...wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee), and you reduce flow...like when you install headers...because psi levels drop then as well...and the car DOESN'T knock, then you actually have a performance increase from the fact the PCM isn't yanking timing out.

But its not productive as the blower spins faster it uses more power to turn it. Only benefit is noise.

See above. Blower only spins faster or uses more power if you're dropping pulley sizes. I'm talking about keeping it stock. BREEEH.

Blue, y u no reply?

I can think of a few ways to make a blower test bench. The only issue would be it would only be relative, not absolute. But thats like any dyno or flow bench in the history of cars. :th_jester:

Didn't reply, because common sense.
 
Guys.

Has anybody as psychrometrically accurately as possible compared blower non ported-to-ported MAP?

If MAP was lower when ported, either the blower can't pressurize as well, or temps dropped.

So has anybody properly measure outlet temps AND MAP?
 
Mech.

No,

It's a M90 on a 3800.

Won't matter really...it's like comparing a CAI to a WAI or a HAI or an Open Cone.

Can of worms opened, and left open forever...I'm just replying to Matt...because I can...not that it's worth the time.

:D
 
It's odd that no one waits for the guy that put a post rotor temp sensor into his setup to post. I've also done thermostat testing to see what works and doesn't for stock vs 180 vs drilled 180 etc etc.

Fawk...take a look at how much I ported that Gen 3 in the pics. I damn near went down to the coolant ports.

The research I've done backs up what Matt is saying. (Eh..you can send me that Paypal now)
 
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