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Stall at Start

I dunno...I thought it was a 3100.

3.8 changes things. 3/6 coil is over the valve cover. What kinda noise you hearing?
 


The ticking around the coil pack? It's a rapid ticking, like someone tapping a single key on a keyboard maybe- but insanely fast.
 
I didn't notice any difference, and the engine was surging quite a bit. It didn't sound like it was under the valve cover- I checked for that- it was either in the coil pack or in very close proximity underneath. I had thought it was a pulley when I first noticed it, but it does sound somewhat electrical.
 
ShadowSwept said:
I didn't notice any difference, and the engine was surging quite a bit. It didn't sound like it was under the valve cover- I checked for that- it was either in the coil pack or in very close proximity underneath. I had thought it was a pulley when I first noticed it, but it does sound somewhat electrical.
Click to expand...

I noticed in an earlier post that you mentioned codes for the MAF, O2 and an Evap code. If I remember, you don't have a scanner so this is going to be a tough diagnosis. Even though you changed the MAF sensor, there could still be something wrong with the signal integrity of the wires. Your surging is probably coming from the IAC trying to make adjustments because of vacuum leaks. If you had a scanner, you could look at your fuel trims at see what was going on at idle and with raised RPM's. For example, if you had vacuum leaks, your LTFT's would be on the high side at idle, but with increased RPM the LTFT's would come down because at higher RPM's there is a lot more air entering the engine versus the air coming in from vacuum leak(s). On the other hand, if your LTFT's were normal at idle but then increased at higher RPM's, this would point to a fuel starvation or MAF problems. Another thing for vacuum leaks is to look at your idle adaptation limits and see if the IAC is being cranked up.

In any event, it's going to be tough to diagnose a vehicle without any equipment. At this point, see what your codes are now and maybe we can improvise something without equipment.
 
Hmm. So anyone around Kentucky have a scanner? :p
I'll get codes checked first thing in the morning. I already pulled the evap and will be pulling the EGR tomorrow, at which time I will also be attempting to fix that exhaust leak I've had since I bought the car. See if that helps anything.
 


Well, poor guy at Autozone nearly flipped reading my codes - evap and EGR delete haven't been tuned out yet:p.
Aside from those, the MAF is still reading bad, and I cleaned it this week, so it's definately getting replaced. The rear O2 sensor's also reading bad connection, which is probably my fault as I had to rewire it during my break at work and never cleaned up the connections. So I'm pretty much still getting the same codes. :th_angry2:


So my plan was to get headers and then a tune, with top-swap coming with next year's taxes. So about my earlier post; would I be okay to run the LQ4 MAF N/A until tax time? It'd be nice not to have to buy two MAFs in a year.
 
So... Should I take you guys ignoring my LQ4 question twice as a 'Yeah, sure, go ahead' or a 'Thats so flippin stupid I'm not even dignifying it with a response'? :th_jester:
 
I would get a tune for it, just want to make sure it wouldn't cause any problems with an otherwise stock N/A motor (+headers).
 


I'd need to look at the table. Likely they are pretty different. You'd likely be better running an unplugged maf than an LQ4 if I were to toss this off my hip.
 
Deleted the EGR Wednesday (yeah, I know; fix it before you mod it, but the the thing bugged me and deleting it was free), left the battery disconnected in the process. I took my time and tucked some wires while I was at it so it ended up being about a four hour job. Reconnected the battery and let the car sit for a day and a half.
Got in it this morning and tried to start and it ran for about two seconds and died. It let out a pathetic little squeak to go with it. Started it back up with the same result. Third try I held the accelerator down and got the familiar chugging before it stalled again, so I turned the key again and held RPMs at 3k until it felt stable, shifted it into reverse to hold it there (my car dislikes neutral for some reason?). Car started and ran normal while I drove to town via the interstate, and the only dummy light I got was the ABS (as if that'll last :p).
I did notice some odd shifting though. I've noticed something similar before but didn't think much of it, maybe I'm just a little hyper aware this morning.

Everything's pretty much the same now, SES came back on as soon as I started up again to head home. I did notice something else though; I previously mentioned that I get some pretty heavy vibration when driving with RPMs over 3k (popular theory seems to be crappy motor mounts, which I haven't yet replaced). Well I pushed the RPMs just over 3k while parked and the vibration still starts right about the 3200 mark, but my speedometer moves up to 10-20mph. Is this normal?

So this chugging at idle is what's really bothering me at the moment. I have a fuel filter sitting in the back seat that's getting installed my next day off. If that and the new MAF don't fix it I may start to get worried :th_sick2:.
 
Just monitoring the symptoms, without a scanner I can't check much :/. Still debating whether to buy an OEM MAF or get the LQ4, and I have a fuel filter and shift kit to install. Just wanted to post an update and those new details about the squeak when it stalled and the speedometer moving while in park. Also, my intake seemed to be a bit louder while driving today, and the car felt a little bogged down between 30 and 50mph.

Just trying to give as much info as possible until I'm able to scan it or do a useful repair.
 


FWIW I was working on a car last night and one of the things it needed was to swap the maf table from a stock 2001 to an LQ4. The table is different enough that your car may not run very well.
 
BillBoost37 said:
The table is different enough that your car may not run very well.
Click to expand...

Now is that with the tune, or without? Because I plan to get a tune for that and the emissions delete, as well as headers as soon as I get them on. If the LQ4 will still make it run like crap after a tune I'll just go ahead and buy a stock MAF for now.
 
Well I finally got the new MAF and installed it. Didn't know just how bad mine was until I compared it to the new one; looked like someone set the sensor wires on fire at some point, and that's after a thorough cleaning. The new MAF appears to be an off-brand of some sort; there are no serial numbers or codes stamped, screw bushings are aluminum instead of brass, and the underside looks a bit different. Also, the rear sensor inside the shaft makes an inverted 'V' against the main body, where on the old one both were straight, just offset, but it works! Car started with no trouble and ran fine all the way home, of course I haven't started it again since so let's hope I didn't just jinx myself.

I also changed the fuel filter shortly after the last post. It helped a bit and raised my fuel mileage 2-3mpg. As it is now the surging is almost gone, at idle it may waver between 700 and 800rmps, maybe 700-850. That's after I got home, when I started the car the first time it sat slightly above 1k. I'll find out on the way to work tonight if things stay better or go back to how they were. On that note, I'm tempted to make a switch to cut power to the battery when I park it; not seeing that SES light is kinda nice :p
 
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