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Different Grindings

Adidasdude1989

Adidasdude1989

New member
Before i post about this grinding, i apologize if this isnt the right part of the forum to post in.

Now, im barely a beginner in cars. Only thing i know how to do is change oil, honestly. But i am trying to learn after all of the years of having my head stuck into a PC.

1st Grind:
I have a 1998 Grand Prix GT. A few days ago, i was doing about 30-35mph and i felt some kind of grinding within the gas peddle. I cant best describe that particular grind so bare with me. Now its a frequent thing, its not constant at all, every few seconds or so i can feel it grind and then it'll stop but start again.

2nd Grind:
This certain grind appears to be a constant grind when in a constant turn, turning left. You know, 1 of those curvy road turns? But after the turn going straight, the grind stops. "Was told it could be the CV joints."

3rd Grind:
Now this grind is simple and to the point. When i make a short turn left or right like into a parking lot, i get a little 2 second grind and when the car comes out of the turn, of course it stops.

Now my front brakes do need to be replaced because they do squeak so maybe the brakes can maybe become a factor within 1 of these grinds?

Im trying to be so specific as i can so i hope this is enough to maybe diagnose these problems and what parts ill need to replace because its effecting the smoothness of my ride.
 
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i really thought this was going to be about custom cam shafts lol

jack up the car and see if you have play in the wheel from 12 to 6 o'clock, push the top pull the bottom, and vise versa, see if you have play, remove the wheel and check your brakes to see if you have any meat left on the pads, but that type of grinding (brakes) you feel in the brake pedal and the rest of the car.
 
dsmuts said:
The 2nd one sounds like a wheel bearing.
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I thought if the wheel bearings are going bad, it'll grind now matter if your turning or not?
scottydoggs said:
i really thought this was going to be about custom cam shafts lol
jack up the car and see if you have play in the wheel from 12 to 6 o'clock, push the top pull the bottom, and vise versa, see if you have play, remove the wheel and check your brakes to see if you have any meat left on the pads, but that type of grinding (brakes) you feel in the brake pedal and the rest of the car.
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I did forget to add that i do feel grinding with braking a bit also
 


i'd jack the car up and check the hubs out like i said before, and then check the brakes. seems to be leaning towards no pads left. take a look at the sway bar ends, and the end links, they tend to snap and can clunk around while turning.
 
scottydoggs said:
i'd jack the car up and check the hubs out like i said before, and then check the brakes. seems to be leaning towards no pads left. take a look at the sway bar ends, and the end links, they tend to snap and can clunk around while turning.
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Actually the sway bar link on the passenger side is snapped, was told not to worry to much about it unless i had problems turning but the grinding all just started.
 
wheel bearings can be bad and only grind when you turn. You definiately need to replace some front end parts though.
 
If you do bearings, don't buy the cheap ones. Get timken, moog or something with a 3 year warranty. The cheap ones last 1 month to a year and you have to do them again.
 
dsmuts said:
wheel bearings can be bad and only grind when you turn. You definiately need to replace some front end parts though.
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Will definitely check into the bearings. Now when you said i definitely need to replace some front end parts, what are some main parts should i check? I do have someone that knows about cars but he's about an hour away and he works on cars all day in a service garage so he never has time to talk. But getting all this information from you guys helps so i can have him show me a thing or 2 and repair everything together.
 


If you find someone with a jack to jack up the front of your car do that and shake the wheel 3-9 and 6-12 and see if you can see any suspension parts moving. There should be no movement in any of them. Chances are you need to do wheel bearings and possibly tie rods and check out the ball joints and bushings on the lower control arm. I'm not sure if you'll understand that but if you know anyone that knows a little bit about cars they should be able to help you.
 
tie rods, when you have the car jacked up for the bearing test, the tie rod test is same thing but 9 and 3 o'clock if it has play you need tie rods, lower control arms have bushings and the ball joint in them, i just changed these, made the car ride better and quieter for sure, had a few rattles, got them from partsgeek.com, looked the other day at the dormans they were down to 38 a side, 85 shipped for the pair i think. and the struts and sway bar, and you know already you need a new one of them, the dorman replacement is about 100 bucks or so with new everything to put it in.
 
dsmuts said:
If you find someone with a jack to jack up the front of your car do that and shake the wheel 3-9 and 6-12 and see if you can see any suspension parts moving. There should be no movement in any of them. Chances are you need to do wheel bearings and possibly tie rods and check out the ball joints and bushings on the lower control arm. I'm not sure if you'll understand that but if you know anyone that knows a little bit about cars they should be able to help you.
Click to expand...
I do know i have bushings on the driver side control arm that are a bit worn out because when i drive, i hear a clunking noise and for the longest time i couldnt figure out where it came from, until i happen to stop into Tuffy out of boredom and this guy had LOTS of free time so he jacked my car up and shook my control arm and the clunking sound appeared. This happens when i push on the hood of the car up and down, you can hear that specific clunk. But the clunk has been here when i got the car, of course waaaay before the grindings.
 


scottydoggs said:
tie rods, when you have the car jacked up for the bearing test, the tie rod test is same thing but 9 and 3 o'clock if it has play you need tie rods, lower control arms have bushings and the ball joint in them, i just changed these, made the car ride better and quieter for sure, had a few rattles, got them from partsgeek.com, looked the other day at the dormans they were down to 38 a side, 85 shipped for the pair i think. and the struts and sway bar, and you know already you need a new one of them, the dorman replacement is about 100 bucks or so with new everything to put it in.
Click to expand...
I kind of explained some of the grinding with my dad and he told me CV joints could take a factor with the 2nd grind.
 
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