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Please tell me this is NOT the access door to the fuel pump!!

spider4

spider4

New member
The reason i say this is because i found this after advice from members here and reading a how to about changing the fuel pump. I dont trust myself to do this replacement so i hired a mobile mechanic. He insists that the only way i can get to the fuel pump is to take out the whole back seat or drop the tank. So give me peace of mind that it cant be done thru this access.
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Yes, it can be done through that hole in the trunk. I've done it many times, so have others.

Edit: Also, I find it easier to change the fuel pump sitting backwards in the back seat, through the pass thru door. Not through the trunk.
 
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Yup.. no need to question it.

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Want a tool list? It's almost as easy as filling your tank with fuel. All the pics were taken through the rear seat pass through.
 
Thanks everyone. Honestly i didnt doubt any of the advice i have received here,because its always been solid. I just got done talking to the mechanic and guess what now he agrees with me (more like someone probably schooled him a bit). My problem is im too nice and dont want to step on peoples toes especially when this is their trade. But now we are on the same page and he is on his way....i wish i had the confidence because i really feel like i could do this.The only problem is we did check every auto store locally and believe it or not no one had the pump in stock,no one!! I know i couldve ordered one but i wanted to have the car back to running as soon as possible. So he convinced me to go junk yard route.
 
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So easy a Caveman could do it... just don't feel so relaxed you get the urge to light up a cig during this process... Surgeon Generals warnings and all :P
 
Trouble is.. he might have looked it up since talking to you. Most mechanics give you the general procedure until looking at the car. Then they hone down what actually has to happen.

I wouldn't hold it against him. But expect this should take him about 30-45 minutes to do.

Procedure:
Pull back carpet
Remove 6 or 8 10mm nuts
Lift panel
Blow top of tank off with air
Unclip electrical plug(s)
Unhook fuel supply, return and evap lines
Remove lock ring
Lift pump assembly out
Lower new assembly in
Hold in place with lock ring
Reconnect supply, return and evap lines
Reconnect electrical
Test pump and gauge
Reinstall cover
Pull carpet back into place
 
God that sounds so simple!! Bill one thing i did see on a procedure i had read said to unplug the negative battery cable.Is this needed?
 
Needed is a loose term. Every single procedure in the GM manual says disconnect battery. 99.9% of mechanics would not disconnect a battery to do something like this. Reason being is you reset the radio and then the customer complains about having to fix the time and radio stations etc.

There is a small (very small) chance that there's a static charge or blah blah that causes an explosion.. Gas fumes and say someone turning on the key, has a small chance. But if you don't touch it and just do the work, then you are fine. I never have disconnected to swap a pump. Should I have? Sure, I should have....safety should come first.
 


Isn't the coupe and 4 door have them in diff places or.is that fuzzy remembrance on my part?

Sent from my Kindle Fire
 
I'm with Brian.... you don't need to create multiple threads while trying to resolve issues that are in correlation with the other issues.
 


Actually the mechanic was smoking a cig most of the time, had me a bit nervous.He got the pump in everything was working just great. Seemed to be running smoother. However after driving trouble free for two hours with plenty of stops and cutting the car off at destinations it decided to act up again.The car started sputtering real bad, I was able to get it into my parking lot thankfully.The whole time it was hissing real bad.The sound seemed to becoming from the valve on the fuel rail(the one the mechanic used to check the fuel pumps pressure).I called the mechanic, first he had me test the valve and fuel shot out just fine so no loss of fuel pressure. Then he had me yank on the pulley nearest to the crankposition sensor. This did not help. He thinks that it could be from oily buildup in and around the crankshaft position sensor connector.Then again it could now be that sensor itself sense the code for that sensor had popped up in a read. The code for the EGR also came up as FLOW INSUFFICIANT. This guy seems to be a good dude, he promised to be out first thing in the morning to get it straight.
 
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